15 June 11

Features

Zadar on the ground

Roman ruins, contemporary art, fine dining, and great island-hopping opportunities

By Sophy Grimshaw
Photography by Tim White
SOLAR ENERGY LIGHTS THE ART INSTALLATION GREETING TO THE SUN

GET THE VIBE

TAKING IT EASY ON THE CROATIAN COAST

“ZADAR IS CHILLED OUT. THE ATTITUDE here is, if you don’t get it done today, there’s always tomorrow,” says Tamara Stojkovic, an academic and sometime-tour guide who moved to Zadar from what’s called the “Continental” part of Croatia 11 years ago. We’re walking along the promenade, with the glinting water of the Zadar Strait on one side and the city’s university – housed in a Venetian-style palazzo shaded by palm trees – on the other. Some students sit with their feet dangling over the promenade’s edge, watching sailboats pass. How any of them ever settle down indoors to study, I can’t imagine.

Across the water you can see the olive grove-covered island of Ugljan – whose Marina Preko is only a 20-minute ferry ride away. From the marina you can walk up to a Roman fort on the hill, or join the crew of a speedboat or sailing boat to go island hopping, perhaps taking hire bikes with you too.

“When I first came to Zadar I couldn’t believe that at 11am everyone would leave their offices to enjoy a coffee outside,” continues Tamara. “I soon realised I could get used to this.” Over the centuries, a lot of people have felt they could get used to Zadar. It has a swathe of fertile agricultural land behind it, a Mediterranean climate, mountains just close enough to buffer strong winds and – often to its disadvantage historically – a strategically desirable coastal location. As a result, Zadar has been captured again and again, with conquering forces including the Romans and the Venetians, who left behind some spectacular architecture. Look up and you’ll see the Venetian lion adorning the beautifully carved stone city gate at the entrance to the Old Town.

Zadar is no longer a best-kept secret kind of town, but it’s still a long way from mass tourism. The proprietors of restaurants, bars and hotels understand the importance of attentive service, but as a foreigner you don’t feel that you are being constantly sold to, either. An exciting club scene is also a counterpoint to the spectacular national parks, beaches and coves nearby.

Spend a few days here and you too might find yourself saying: “I could get used to this.” There’s no other city quite like it.

ZADAR IS MADE OF PRECIOUS STUFF, from its still-busy Roman Forum 1 to its outdoor art installations. The latter are the work of Croatian architectural artist Nikola Bašic, the most famous being the Sea Organ 2 . It looks at first glance to be just some steps leading down to the sea, but hidden underneath are musical pipes that play different notes as the water hits them. In this way the sea itself plays the organ. Innovative and fun, it’s the only structure of its kind in the world, and emits soft, ever-varying sounds.

Bašic has a second work on the same promenade called Greeting to the Sun 3 , a large disc of solar panels that soak up rays by day and project a series of decorative, coloured lights by night. Smaller discs around it represent different planets of the solar system.

For a small city with plenty of beautiful ancient ruins to draw visitors, Zadar also has a commendable enthusiasm for conceptual art. There’s a changing exhibition programme at the Gallery of Fine Arts ( 4 www.nmz.hr), an institution that, although you might not guess it from the name, focuses on daring 20th and 21st century pieces.

Nearby, if you come across an old man sitting contemplating a seashell, you’ll know you’re in front of the University of Zadar 5 . This is the statue of Špiro Brusina (see previous page), a Croatian zoologist. As for Zadar’s historic treasures, the St Donatus Church 6 has become one of the symbols of the city and of Dalmatia. Dating from the 9th century, it has a distinctive round structure and is perched near the edge of the Roman Forum.

The forum dates from the time of the first Roman Emperor Augustus, and has remained a social hub. One of the surviving Roman pillars became a “shame post” in the Middle Ages, meaning that unpopular members of the community were chained to it then pelted by the locals.

Speaking of the Romans, excavation of Roman tombs in Dalmatia revealed well-preserved glass from as early as the 1st century. The finds, many of which were buried in urns alongside the dead, are brought together at Zadar’s Museum of Ancient Glass ( 7 www.mas-zadar.hr), one of the city’s must-sees. Even if you don’t think ancient glass is your thing, do give it a chance. From vases and dishes to glass jewellery and accessories, it’s a fascinating collection that seems to breathe life into a long-gone civilisation.

If you prefer your cultural outing with a great bar attached, there is Arsenal ( 8 www.arsenalzadar.com). It’s worth checking what’s on at this multi-purpose space – which hosts art, music and dance events – on the nights that you’re in town.

Ballet pumps and baskets

Krešimir Ćosić Hall ( 9 www.visnjik.hr) is a striking venue that looks a little like a giant silver spider. Originally solely a sports arena, it has since become a more versatile venue, for instance hosting the Russian Ballet’s Swan Lake earlier this year.

While a wide variety of different performances take place here, more often than not, the show will be a basketball game. The Americans by no means have the monopoly on basketball, which is big business in Croatia, and the national team’s achievements include a silver medal at the 1992 Olympics.

The hall is not only the scene where many games are played out between rival Croatian teams, but it’s also the setting for Zadar Basketball School, where young would-be players of both sexes can take a week-long course to see if they’ve got what it takes. It’s often said that the Croats are a tall race, and maybe that helps to explain the healthy national appetite for slam dunking.

AT THE HOTEL
CHECK OUT SOME OF ZADAR’S FINEST

THE ZADAR REGION’S FIRST EVER FIVE-STAR hotel is opening on 1 July – the luxury Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Iadera is located in nearby Punta Skala.

However, guests who stay at the small four-star Hotel Bastion ( 10 www.hotel-. bastion.hr) – styled as an initmate, boutique hideaway – certainly won’t feel they are missing out. Rooms have a boudoir feel (in a good way), with velvety fabrics and wooden floors. The pretty front garden has comfy couches where you can settle down for the afternoon with a round of drinks, and the spa is a cut above too (see column, right).

Bastion is located in the hub of the Old Town, close to The Garden nightclub and the Arsenal events space, and within walking distance of most of the major sights.

For a more family oriented hotel, try the Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik ( 11 www.falkensteiner.com), set in generously sized grounds only slightly outside Zadar. Technically, you can still reach the Old Town by foot, although it will take you about 30 minutes, and buses and cabs are plentiful and inexpensive. Palm trees and large outdoor swimming pools give the place a resort atmosphere. The family suites include bunk beds for children in a separate alcove, and downstairs there’s a small games area with darts, arcade games and children’s rides.

Included in the room rate is breakfast and dinner at a self-service buffet in a large dining room, but if you’re after a little romance, there’s also the option of an evening meal at the smart à la carte restaurant if you book in advance. You can also opt for a room with a balcony. It feels good to throw open the doors at night and see the moon and stars and hear the sea.

Part of the same resort – although a bit more quiet and secluded in feel – is the Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana ( 12 www.falkensteiner.com).

More business-oriented is the Hotel Kolovare ( 13 www.. hotel-kolovare.com), which has 191 rooms as well as 12 serviced apartments. If you have an appointment in the conference room and want to look sharp, you could visit the hotel’s hair salon. Or if you’re here to play rather than work, make use of the tennis and volleyball courts, miniature golf course and outdoor pool.

Customer service standards in Zadar are high, and the city is small enough that it does not desperately matter where your hotel is located. As long as you can get into the Old Town in the morning, and can get home from the bars and clubs at night without too much fuss, you’re sorted.

Star treatment

For a small city, Zadar’s hotels have notably high standards when it comes to in-house spa facilities.

For example, the expansive spa area at Club Funimation Borik (including sauna rooms and multiple swimming pools) is large enough to meet the needs of a big hotel while still feeling luxurious, rather than like a heaving leisure centre.

At the Hotel Bastion, you’ll find Wellness Castello, a spa built within the remains of a 13th-century fortress. As the hotel is small (with less than 30 rooms and suites in total), you could well have the place all to yourself. The stand-out feature is a Jacuzzi with a starry “sky” of LED lights above it, tucked away in a corner. It makes for an intimate atmosphere, so try to make sure you’re in the tub with someone you like. You’re welcome to order a drink while you’re bobbing about in there.

The spa also boasts a sauna, steam room, muscle-soothing heated loungers, foot baths and private treatment rooms.

ON THE TABLE
TRY THE CATCH OF THE DAY

FROM SEAFOOD SO FRESH IT’S SOMETIMES still alive, to succulent lamb from the nearby island of Pag – and fruit and vegetables from surrounding farmland – Zadar is able to offer high-calibre dining. It has a Mediterranean climate, after all.

You’ll find pizza absolutely everywhere in Zadar. The Italian influence here goes far beyond just the architecture, and is aided by an abundance of good local olive oil, while schools of anchovies swarm in Zadar’s clear waters like pizza toppings waiting to happen. For the best Italian food go to Bruschetta ( 14 www.bruschetta.hr), one of Zadar’s newer restaurants, which serves top-notch pizza and pasta on a terrace near the sea. It’s framed by flowers, visited by small butterflies that will periodically flit across your table.

Many people will tell you that the very best place to eat in Zadar is Foˇša ( 15 www.fosa.hr), an elegant seafood restaurant. The outdoor dining area juts out into the sea, with a view that takes in the old city walls and clusters of row boats. Live lobsters in a tank are destined to become somebody’s dinner (yours?), and the sea bass and other fresh fish are cooked with rare skill. Service is impeccable – which is often the case in Zadar – and white linen seat covers give Foša a romantic, wedding reception vibe.

Kornat ( 16 www.restaurant-kornat.com) is on the seafront not far from Jazine Harbour where the ferries leave – you’ll see them glide past the window – and is another of the city’s best restaurants. It’s popular with local business people, many of whom favour making decisions over a long lunch of Pag lamb and endless glasses of Croatian red. Ask your waiter for a bottle that’s from the region.

For yet more expansive sea views, the good-value Restaurant Zadar 17 (even the name seems economical) has an enviable spot on the promenade, in earshot of the pealing church bells on a Sunday and set a little back from the water. An aperitif will cost you only one or two euros, and this place is ideal for a light lunch outdoors on a hot day. It sits in front of the former Hotel Bristol, where Alfred Hitchcock once stayed. Legend has it he said Zadar offers the world’s most beautiful sunset.

More dark and rustic is the atmospheric Konoba Stomorica 18 , on the street in the Old Town where the best bars are. Step inside for grilled fish, calamari, octopus, and live folk music on the accordion.

If you’ve checked into Hotel Bastion (see At the Hotel) you’d be a fool not to eat a beautiful meal on the rooftop terrace; try the “chocolate volcano” dessert. Hotel Villa Nico ( 19 www.hotel-villanico.com) also serves excellent seafood to a clientele of hotel guests and local regulars.

Cone zone

Donat Ice Cream 20 in the Old Town has such a good reputation that locals claim people come from other parts of Croatia just to order a cone here. Like seeing one of the city’s famously gorgeous sunsets or having a drink and a dance at The Garden club, sampling the ice cream at Donat is something you shouldn’t leave Zadar without doing first. The modest stone-walled parlour has a small but mouth- watering selection of fruit flavours, including lemon and blueberry.

TO THE BAR
BIG CLUBS AND KULT HITS

UNIVERSITY CITIES ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE good nightlife, and Zadar is no exception. The student faves are, perhaps not surprisingly, right by the university itself. On a street close to the water’s edge you’ll find Down Town 21 , its raised terrace packed with hipsters sporting Zadar’s more adventurous haircuts. They’re a nice bunch, and you can join them to sip on local Karlovačko beer, or a pint of Denmark’s Tuborg, to a soundtrack of hip-hop. In the same building, and near-identical in terms of crowd, music and decor, is a bar called Arkada. For more fresh air and sunshine, but marginally quieter surrounds, grab a little table at the summery Bar Brazil 22 . The staff here recommend a green, powder-based energy drink – but it must be an acquired taste.

The best neighbourhood for nightlife has to be the narrow Old Town street of Stomorica and its side streets. Kult 23 is an always-full hole in the wall, with a DJ booth, disco ball, cocktails and karaoke. The party inevitably spills out onto the street and outdoor tables. Close by, a small bar called Zodiac 24 is also packed with twenty-somethings nodding their heads to loud tunes.

There’s a more traditional Croatian vibe at Bar Rio 25 , with its dark, pub-style interior, and comfy outdoor area with couches and canvas awnings. Although it lacks a sea view, it’s definitely not lacking when it comes to lively atmosphere.

For something slightly more low-key, join the crowd of attractive thirty-somethings who sink drinks outside the bars on Varoška Ulica, including the cool café/bar Gallery Gina 26 .

For large-scale clubbing action, the nearby island of Pag has been grabbing headlines with its all-night parties at Zrce beach, but Zadar offers significant clubbing opportunities too. It’s most famous for the monstrously successful club The Garden ( 27 www.watchthegardengrow.eu), founded by UB40 drummer James Brown and producer Nick Colgan (see right). From May to September, The Garden hosts big-name house and techno DJs unlikely to have Red Red Wine in their record bag. The white couches outside are ideal for lounging around on as the sun goes down.

Another club with a big reputation is Gotham 28 . Somewhat incongruously positioned right by the Museum of Ancient Glass, it boasts numerous bars and dance floors. Friends with varying musical tastes should also try Peppers 29 , where you’ll hear pop and funk as well as techno. Oh, and while you’re here, don’t forget to try the national drink, the cherry liqueur called Maraschino (see page 56). There’s even a cute little club named in its honour, Maraschino Bar 30.

Garden party

The Garden club has been a phenomenal success, and every summer international partygoers flock to Zadar to down drinks here. Since 2006, they have also been congregating at the annual music festival that the club has spawned, taking place in the nearby 900-year-old village of Petrčane.

The Garden Festival (www.. thegardenfestival. eu) has an intimate, boutique feel, but you won’t find any folk tunes or indie heroes here. This is most definitely a dance party, with all hands on decks. Acts for 2011 include Norman Jay and Crazy P, and the festivities will take place over a very long weekend between Wednesday 6 and Wednesday 13 July.

One of the more unique events during the festival is the Argonaughty Boat Party, which sees 200 festival-goers at a time setting sail on an old wooden ship for a four-hour party on the waves. The boat leaves twice daily, and has a changing line-up of DJ talent onboard.

HIT THE SHOPS
GLASS, BASS AND HANDICRAFTS

THE BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE YOU can have in Zadar is undoubtedly one based around food. At the indoor fish market 31 near the Roman Forum, the morning’s catch is piled high and still so fresh from the boat that it barely even smells fishy yet. From sardines and anchovies to sea bass and octopus, the exquisite sea creatures here – not to mention the stallholders hawking them enthusiastically – are worth seeing whether or not you intend on buying some to toss on a beach barbecue.

Similarly, the fresh produce at the food and flower market 32 nearby is of a quality that’s hard to top. You’ll find a myriad selection of fresh fruit and green leaves – every kind of spinach, lettuce and cabbage you could ever hope to throw in a salad – and sellers are happy for you to try before you buy. You’d be wise to take home a big block of Pag cheese. This strong, creamy sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag is served in restaurants all over Zadar, and it’s easy to develop a taste for it.

As for clothes, for international brands such as Levi’s and Miss Sixty, hit New Town shopping mall City Galleria ( 33 www.citygalleria. hr). However, Zadar’s best shops are in the Old Town around Ulica Plemica Borelli. For instance, in this area you’ll find a beautiful little wine store, Vina Bibich 34 and a branch of luxury bag emporium Furla. Elsewhere, women can pick up tailored summer dresses at the Zadar branch of Max & Co ( 35 www.maxandco.com), and for punk and skater styles just head to Smart Shop 36 .

Meanwhile, the Museum of Ancient Glass (see page 46) holds the key to some special purchases you can make while in Zadar. Its gift shop is stocked with a selection of ornamental glass vases and bottles, crafted by hand in the upstairs glass-blowing workshop using the same techniques as the ancient Romans, and coloured with natural minerals. Prices start from as little as HRK100 (€14) for a unique glass vase.

Antonija Gospić, who works at the museum as a glass and jewellery expert, is also a jewellery designer (she is pictured on page 47; and her work is shown on page 56). “I look at jewellery as a wearable piece of art, and spend several days on each piece,” she says of her creations, which include beads she has sculpted from molten glass. Her jewellery can be purchased online at www.etsy.com/shop/galleriadivina.

For some unique keepsakes, such as old pocket watches and military medals, look out for the indoor thrift market in the Old Town. It’s about to move to a new location, to be confirmed, so ask around.

Global ties

Here’s a fact that could win you a pub quiz one day: the tie was invented in Croatia. A trend for the now-ubiquitous neck accessory began to spread through Europe in the 17th century, when Croatian soldiers fighting the Thirty Years’ War in Germany were seen sporting cravat-like scarves as part of their military uniforms. They must have garnered some admiring glances from other nations’ servicemen, as the look caught on, and four centuries later it’s yet to go out of fashion.

The word “cravat” is thought to be an amalgamation of “Hrvati” and “Croates”, the Croatian and the French words, respectively, for the Croat people.

Zadar offers a stylish tie shop in the form of Croata ( 37 www.croata.hr), which has branches across the country. The small space is stocked with ties and scarves for men and women, as well as leather wallets and bags. Ties start from about HRK100 (€14), and many cost about HRK270 (€37).

IN THE BAG
PERFECT PURCHASES FROM ZADAR

1 / GLASS JUG At the Museum of Ancient Glass you can pick up one of these pretty, colourful vessels, made in the on-site glass-blowing workshop using the same technique as the ancient Romans. Cheaper than the real relic, it will look just as good on your shelf. HRK 100 (€14)

2 / NECK TIE Croatians invented the tie (see previous page), although you won’t see many people actually wearing one in a laid-back coastal city like Zadar. We found this nicely patterned neck accessory at Croata, a tie and leather goods shop in the old town. HRK 74 (€10)

3 / MARASCHINO You’ll see adverts for Croatia’s favourite drink everywhere in Zadar, and it’s easy to buy or sample some. The clear liqueur, made with the slightly sour Maraschino cherries of the Dalmatian coast, comes in a distinctive wicker- wrapped bottle. HRK 111 (€15)

4 / JEWELLERY This glass necklace, in a style called Spring Frost, was handmade by local jeweller Antonija Gospić. Each of her pieces requires hours of intricate work and she sculpts the glass while still molten. For details of where to buy, see previous page. HRK 811 (€110)

5 / PILOT’S BADGE We picked up this metal insignia (which we’re informed once adorned the cap of a military pilot from the former Yugoslavia) in an antiques market on a side street in the Old Town. Zadar is full of exciting vintage finds like this one. HRK 59 (€8)

WHERE IT’S AT
MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Roman Forum Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II

2 Sea Organ

3 Greeting to the Sun Istarska Obala (Zadar Waterfront)

4 Gallery of Fine Arts 2 Medulićeva, tel: +385 (0)23 211174

5 University of Zadar Mihovila Pavlinovića bb

6 St Donatus Church Poljana Pape Ivana Pavla II

7 Museum of Ancient Glass 1 Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora, tel: +385 (0)23 363833

8 Arsenal 1 Trg Tri Bunara, tel: + 385 (0)23 253821

9 Krešimiŕ Cosić Hall 3 Splitska, tel: +385 (0)23 494860

/ 10 Hotel Bastion 13 Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna, tel: +385 (0)23 494950

11 Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik 7 Majstora Radovana, tel: +385 (0)23 206100

12 Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana 7 Majstora Radovana, tel: +385 (0)23 206300

13 Hotel Kolovare14 Bože Peričića, tel: +385 (0)23 203200

14 Bruschetta 12 Mihovila Pavlinovića, tel: +385 (0)23 312915

15 Foša 2 Kralja Dimitra Zvonimira, tel: +385 (0)23 314421

16 Kornat 6 Liburnska Obala, tel: +385 (0)23 254501

17 Restaurant Zadar Obala Kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel: +385 (0)23 212182

18 Konoba Stomorica 12 Stomorica, tel: +385 (0)23 315946

19 Hotel Villa Nico 138 Krešimirova Obala, tel: +385 (0)23 331198

20 Donat Ice Cream 4 Trg Sv. Stošije, tel: +385 (0)23 250829

21 Down Town and Arkada 6 Rudjera Boškovica

22 Bar Brazil Obala Kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel: +385 (0)91 208 5561

23 Kult 6 Stomorica, tel: +385 (0)91 392 2595

24 Zodiac 2 Šime Ljubavca

25 Bar Rio 5 Putevac, tel: +385 (0)23 312448

26 Gallery Gina 2 Varoška, tel: +385 (0)23 314774

27 The Garden 5 Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna, tel: +385 (0)23 254509

28 Gotham 1 Marka Oreškovića, tel: +385 (0)23 200289

29 Peppers 2c Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora

30 Maraschino Bar 6a Obala Kneza Branimira, tel: +385 (0)23 211250

31 Fish Market

32 Flower Market

33 City Galleria 1 Murvicka, tel: +385 (0)23 300100

34 Vina Bibich 7 Kraljskog Dalmatina, tel: +385 (0)23 250246

35 Max & Co 18 Knezova Šubica Bribirskih, tel: +385 (0)23 254296

36 Smart Shop 2 Stomorica

37 Croata 24 Široka Ulica, tel: +385 (0)23 250122