Zadar Love

On the Adriatic coast, the town of Zadar boasts all of Croatia’s qualities, with a subtle hint of Italy, says Robin McKelvie.

Sitting in a creaky little boat being rowed by a sweet old man from the island of Ugljan to the islet of Galovac, you would never guess you were mere moments away from the Adriatic coast’s most up-and-coming tourist haven. But you are – as a mere 20-minute ferry ride will transport you from timeless Dalmatian islands to a place that is very much of the here and now, Zadar.

Forget the more famous Dubrovnik or Split. When it comes to urban stars along this stretch of Croatian coastline, Zadar – the ancient capital of Dalmatia – is reclaiming the crown it first cherished when the Romans, and later the Venetians, held sway on this slice of Italy on the other side of the Adriatic.

Bask in what Alfred Hitchcock eulogised as the world’s finest sunsets, sample some of Europe’s most buzzing nightlife and taste a local cuisine to rival anything in Italy, and you’ll soon see why Zadar is picking up a reputation among in-the-know travellers.

Zadar has been inhabited since as early as the 9th century BC, before the Romans started to appreciate its manifold charms and muscle in. The heart of their old city lies on its own peninsula sparkling in the Adriatic, with low hills to one side and a brace of islands beckoning from off the palm-fringed shore on the other.

Over the centuries, Croats, Austrians and the French have all battled for control of this prized asset, but it has been the influence from just across the water that has been mostly keenly felt. The old town’s arrow-straight streets are laid out just as they were when designed by planners from Rome, and smoothed by the sandals of legionnaires. The lion of St Mark, the very symbol of Venetian power, is every bit as prominent as the city’s quartet of patron saints, and welcomes you to the old town grandly at the Land Gate.

The Italians held sway as recently as the 20th-century when, in the post-war years, Zadar was handed back to Italy. This was not too much of a culture shock as many of its inhabitants already spoke Italian, and the cuisines and cultures were also quite similar after almost four centuries of Venetian rule.

Even today the Italian influence blends in with Croatian on all levels. Sladoled, Croatian ice cream, is every bit a match for Italian gelato, thin-crust pizzas appear on what seems like every street corner, and Italian words pepper a laid-back coastal dialect a million miles from the harsher tones spoken inland.

Zadar’s restaurants also eschew the heavy sauces of the hinterland and go Italian with simple grills, lashings of olive oil and a real attempt to let the fresh produce speak for itself. Perhaps the ultimate tribute is that Italian gastronomes are now flocking across the Adriatic to feast on Dalmatian seafood. Konoba Tu Mi Je Lipo (4 Brace Bilsic, tel: +385 (0)23 312 226, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr), a charming little restaurant tucked away on a side alley in the old town, typifies the excellent seafood with its huge platters of fish and mussels.

Even in the style stakes, Zadar is a match for Italy, with locals famous for their long legs, trim figures and high Slavic cheekbones. Everyone appears to have stepped straight out of the wardrobes of Cro à Porter (www.cro-a-porter.hr), an almost Milanese fashion boutique in the Callegro complex (18 Siroka, www.callegro.com), and scouts from Europe’s top modelling agencies flit through the stone streets snapping up talent.

By day the city can be as quiet as a Tuscan hill town, as its citizens slip off for a Latin snooze or just slink around the shadier pavement cafés. This makes it the best time to explore the city’s number-one attraction, the Roman Forum, which features the remnants of temples and sacrificial altars. Here you’ll also find Zadar’s most impressive church, the 9th-century St Donat’s – overshadowed only by the cathedral, whose Italianate belltower rises high overhead reminding its Croatian-style neighbour who’s boss.

Today, the ever-increasing number of tourists discovering Zadar’s charms sip their cappuccinos in the shadow of what is clearly a Venetian-era loggia, where once the representatives of the Serene Republic met to discuss civic affairs. Meanwhile, Zadar’s Italian heritage continues at the Archaeological Museum (1 Trg Opatice Cike, www.amzd.hr), which boasts some impressive artefacts, including statues of former Roman emperors.

Less cerebral pursuits are on offer on Zadar’s beaches, with a dip in the sea on hand minutes from the old town. Kolovare offers a shady space just outside the imposing city walls. And real beach bums can slip out across the harbour on the “barkarioli”, a unique Zadar anachronism that sees a kindly gent row you past the hulking ferries and other ships in time-honoured tradition across to the mainland proper – much in the manner of the Venetian Grand Canal traghetti. A waterfront promenade lies on the other side, which slips west round to the best beaches, and their sprinkling of restaurants, cafés and bars.

As the sun starts to ease off, the old town bursts into life for the evening Italian-style passeggiata, a daily Zadar ritual. Dress your best and slip on a pair of slick shades and you’ll fit right in as you navigate the ancient streets. The heart of the posing action is on the main thoroughfare of Siroka and around the old Roman Forum.

Two of the city’s biggest attractions come into their own at night too, and fit in well with the Mediterranean love of just wandering around in the balmy outdoors. The surreal and unforgettable Sea Organ, conjured up by Croatian architect Nikola Basic, uses the power of the waves to create a perfect soundtrack to the sunsets Hitchcock loved so much. Next door on the Riva – whose name comes from the Latin word for waterfront boulevard – is Sun Salutation, another of the architect’s creations that collects the sun’s rays during the day before using them to create a spectacular light show at night.

As the evening moves on, the action stays outdoors and transfers over to the old city walls. Head to The Garden (Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna, www.thegardenzadar.com), an Ibiza-style hangout set-up by music producer, Nick Colgan, and UB40 drummer, James Brown. Boasting mattress-size loungers and shady spots for the daytime, it’s also the perfect venue for trying a cocktail mixed with the gorgeous local bitter cherry liqueur Maraschino, and taking the pulse of the city’s nightlife.

Countless drinking venues dot the old town, but outside the city walls is where you will find the hottest action. The people behind The Garden now also have The Garden Petrcane (aka Barbarella’s, www.thegardenzadar.com), about 12km outside the city. Here they lay on a world-class clubbing experience with superstar DJs, chill-out areas and all-night parties. Each year they stage a music festival in July, while September sees the action move down to the island of Pag (dubbed the Croatian Ibiza) with the Exodus to Croatia festival (11-13 September, www.outlookfestival.com), with reggae, dub and dance filling the decks and clubbers flying in from all over Europe. Hire yourself a car and get swallowed up in the action.

Today Zadar may be very much a Croatian city striding confidently on as a year-round tourist star, but beating beneath its old town is an unashamedly strong Roman and Venetian heart that echoes the influences from just across the Adriatic. And it’s these that complement this proud Croatian city and help make it the most compelling place to be on the increasingly glitzy Dalmatian coast.

Island hotspots

The Kornatis
George Bernard Shaw waxed lyrical about these beautiful islands, where you can come on a day trip for a “fish picnic” and a swim. If you want to stay longer, the larger island of Dugi Otok on the edge of the Kornatis is ideal.

Pag
Hire a car and head down to what people are calling the “Croatian Ibiza”. All the action takes place at the spectacular Zrce Beach, which hosts the country’s hottest clubbing action from late spring right through to the end of autumn.

Ugljan
Catch a ferry with the local commuters and discover why this is such a great place to live. Check out the local beaches, the Franciscan monastery and the collage of little villages that lie around the pine- and herb-scented island.

Where to eat & sleep
HOTELS

Hotel Kolovare
A luxury hotel handily located near the bus station, with comfortable rooms, a decent restaurant and easy access to both the old town and the beach.
14 Boze Pericica, Tel: +385 (0)23 211 017, www.hotel-kolovare.com

Bastion
You just cannot fault the location of this hotel situated right in the heart of the old town. Set into the remains of a medieval fortress, it boasts chic rooms and a wellness centre, should you require a massage.
13 Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna, Tel: +385 (0)23 494 950, www.hotel-bastion.hr

RESTAURANTS

Fosa
As swish a restaurant as you will find in Zadar. Feast on an epic seafood platter and try one of the local white wines as you gaze out over the harbour.
2 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira, Tel: +385 (0)23 314 421, www.fosa.hr

Stomorica
The konoba is an essential Dalmatian tradition, dating back to when fishermen wanted somewhere cheap and cheerful to eat after work. This konoba in the old town is arguably the city’s best and offers a great terrace and a delicious offering of seafood.
12 Stomorica, Tel: +385 (0)23 315 946