01 July 08

Features

Wish you were here?

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The rocky promontory Capo Testa, on the island’s north-western tip, is well worth visiting to take in the timeless views of the Bonifacio Straight and beyond this the neighbouring island of Corsica. Much here has changed. The hotel I once worked in is now under new management, the dilapidated lighthouse at the far end of headland, once overrun by hippies and covered in charcoal graffiti, has been cleaned up. The beachside pool bar that had offered Bacchanalian, all-you-can-drink parties, appears to have gone out of business. Even the road where our Australian waterskiing instructor was threatened with a gun after he mooned a passing car was, on this occasion, disappointingly trouble free.

I journey on to Porto Cervo, heart of the billionaire resort Costa Smeralda, with its €7 postcards and ludicrously chi-chi boutiques that once made it seem the pinnacle of cosmopolitan decadence. Yet it now feels strangely sterile, with its aged company directors and trophy wives, manicured lawns and strict planning regulations, that ensures everything looks the same.

Back at the Hotel Corallo by 5pm, sunburnt and weary, I’ve just enough time to stick on a pair of trunks and fool about with Sebastian before his bedtime, in our terrace Jacuzzi – he’s very keen on the tub’s control panel.

Nightlife
A dozen years back, a summer’s night out would have involved jumping into a rickety minivan, parking up at the nearest town, ordering a couple of shots of under the counter moonshine – “filu e ferru”, as the islanders call it – before hitting the beach, to doss down beside some acid-fried Italians singing Chili Peppers songs.

Nowadays, Tammy and I are excited to discover that our baby monitor’s range reaches down to the hotel’s restaurant, and we may just manage to have dinner together. She looks lovely, the sun is almost down and, were it not for the odd crackle over the parent unit, we could be on one of the many weekend breaks we used to take, prior to parenthood. My wife takes a strategic loo break when a local troupe, entertaining guests with Sardinian folk dancing, cast around for participants. Taking part in a Mediterranean hokey cokey is the kind of thing I’d be mortally ashamed of aged 20. Yet, these days, I have to admit, it has its own charms. Conforming to the worst stereotypes of early middle age, I allow myself to be dragged up, and enjoy every step.

Ryanair & kids
Flying made easy
Infants (aged from eight days up to and including 23 months) can be included on your seat booking by making an infant reservation at www. ryanair.com, or by calling your local reservations centre. Charges apply. There is no checked baggage allowance for infants, but one fully collapsible pushchair per infant may be carried free. Charges apply for additional equipment.

Infant seatbelts are provided on all Ryanair aircraft, with individual assistance from the cabin crew for fitting if required.

Baby changing facilities are available onboard.

Hertz is Ryanair’s exclusive car rental partner, offering special low rates to all Ryanair customers. Hertz has a rental desk at every airport, to welcome you off every flight, every time. It also offers infant, child and booster seats for hire at almost all branches. Book at www.ryanair.com
Hotel Corallo, Isola Rosso, Sardinia B&B from €45pp, half board from €64pp. Children: free for under threes, 50% discount for under 12s. Tel: +39 079 694 055, www.hotelcorallosardegna.it