Wildside

The island of Salina, in contrast, is as sweetly bucolic as a volcanic island can get. Her twin peaks, pointy and extinct like Madonna’s bra, overshadow the fertile central plain of Valdichiesa. Here, the vines that produce the local sweet wine Malvasia grow, and acacia trees trace a straight route towards Pollara – the pristine secluded fishing village where Il Postino was filmed.

Our daylong hike up Monte Fossa delle Felci, the easternmost of the peaks and, at 962m, the archipelago’s highest, is certainly physically challenging. We take it slowly, glad of our walking poles in the skiddy volcanic sand, and are rewarded by the floor show, where exquisite wild violet, exotic caper flowers and herbs share soil space with geckos and grass snakes.

We munch on delicately flavoured wild asparagus and feathery fennel, stop for shade beneath fragrant pines, and finally eat a picnic at the crater. It is true that an extinct volcano such as Salina’s, where the crater is home to ferns and pines rather than smoke and fire, seems somehow inferior after the drama of Stromboli, but I really like the island. The views of the Aeolian archipelago from the top – a series of receding pyramids in a milky blue sea – give a sense of cohesion within this ancient volcanic park. And, despite the lack of pyrotechnics, at least the air is fragrant.

Aeolian islands
The Facts

The Aeolians are a volcanic archipelago of eight islands lying off the northeast coast of Sicily. Though with small native populations, these UNESCO World Heritage sites see their populations swell during the spring and summer months with an influx of holidaymakers – up to 200,000 annually. The eight islands, of which Lipari is the biggest, are Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo.

Mount Etna:
Etna is Sicily’s own impressive and reliably destructive volcano so you’re not obliged to leave the island for the Aeolians if it’s volcanic action you want. It’s also Europe’s largest volcano at 3,323m high. Etna‘s slopes can seem deceptively gentle, and the volcano is prone to dramatic changes of weather so always seek professional advice from the tourist office before beginning an ascent.

Aeolian islands

The Facts Getting There:
There’s an excellent hydrofoil and ferry service connecting Sicily to the islands, with regular daily departures from Milazzo, Palermo and Messina. Milazzo is the nearest ferry port, with journey times to Lipari approximately one hour.

Walking:
All routes are waymarked, but on Stromboli it is required by law that you walk with a guide or as part of a guided group. Guides take tourists to the summit on most days (weather permitting) during the springsummer season. The booking office is below Bar Ingrid, on Piazza San Vincenzo.

Kit:
Dress for the job. Proper walking boots, layers, and plenty of water are essentials. Added bonus gear includes a walking stick and a head torch, both of which can be bought locally.

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