Wavechasers

Ireland’s stunning west coast has some of the biggest and scariest waves in the world. Ben Mondy heads to County Clare to meet two young surfers taking them on

“It’s pretty strange to think that where I grew up not far from here the locals have traditionally always feared the sea. For generations they didn’t want anything to do with it,” says Fergal Smith, gesturing with his arm out towards the thundering Atlantic Ocean.

Strange indeed, because for the last two years Fergal, along with Cornish surfer Tom Lowe, have dedicated themselves to riding the incredible waves that his forebears so feared.

The Irish National Surfing champion is talking to me perched atop the highest of the famous Cliffs of Moher, while 200m below us the sea smashes into the limestone rocks. To the south you can see the seaside town of Lahinch, nestled at the curve of the sweeping Lahinch Bay, while to the west the Atlantic stretches out into the horizon.

Over this harsh Irish winter, these two young professional surfers (Tom is 25 and Fergal just 21), have been based on Ireland’s west coast in County Clare, about 50km from Shannon, making a film documenting their exploits in this beautiful and rugged part of the world for energy drinks manufacturer Relentless Energy.

Relentless Revolution: Powers of Three shows just how well-founded the local trepidation for the waves that pound the Cliffs of Moher is. This is one of the planet’s ocean black spots, those treacherous patches of water little known to the outside world – a hostile domain through which few men dare to move. Originating in viscous winter Atlantic storms that spin off Icelandic waters, the waves are so large and powerful here that it’s becoming seen as an alternative to Hawaii. Big-wave surfers from all around the world are making the trip in a quest to ride the biggest waves in the world. Such are their size and speed, the waves are often impossible to paddle to. So Fergal and Tom use a 1200cc jet ski to tow each other into these monsters – something inventively called “tow-surfing”.

“Two of the best big-wave surfers in the world came out two weeks ago and we lucked into a big swell,” says Fergal. “The potential of the place blew their minds. They likened it to the famous big-wave surfing spots in Hawaii and northern California. Although those spots don’t have the added fun of freezing rain, ice-cold water, galeforce winds and 5mm-thick wetsuits.”

Fergal and Tom, together with photographer, filmmaker and discoverer of terrifying breaks Mickey Smith, have taken me on a walk through the green fields, thick mud and mind-clearing fresh air to our current clifftop vantage point, directly under O’Brien’s Tower, a stone structure built in the 1800s as a viewing spot for Victorian tourists. Fergal and Tom point out the different reefs and waves that dot this part of the coast, getting more and more excited as they recall epic swells, near-death experiences, massive waves and newly discovered breaks.

“Down there is Aileen’s,” says Tom, pointing to the next headland as a set of waves pour in – seemingly in slow motion, with huge plumes of spray trailing behind. “Mickey pretty much discovered that wave and named it after one of his goddaughters. The break can see waves as big as 50 or 60 feet (up to 18m) high. It’s been surfed for a while now, but can handle anything that the ocean throws at it.”

The lads’ fingers trace their way along the 8km of the Cliffs of Moher, naming waves, locations and what mix of equipment, wind, size of testicle and heroism each break needs to be surfed and survived.

“That town in the distance is Doolin, which has good waves – then out to sea you can make out the Aran Islands,” says Fergal, squinting. “You can get the ferry from Doolin out there. There is one pub, one hostel and some amazing waves with not a single surfer in sight.” His eyes mist over with the thought of these yet-to-be-plundered riches. “This afternoon though, it looks like Riley’s could be good – it’s about half an hour in the other direction. You’ll be in for a right treat if we get that on.”

We start walking back through the green fields and drive through the typically Irish seaside town – where parked tractors clog the main streets as the owners stop for their lunchtime pint of the black stuff – then on to Lahinch itself. Here the wide, open arc of the town’s beach provides a stark comparison to the towering Cliffs of Moher, while the slow, lumbering small breakers seem to offer nothing of the daring or consequence that the lads had been describing earlier.

“We don’t really surf here,” says Tom. “It’s great for beginners though and our mates run surf schools because it is so good for learning. Then in summer it turns into a mini-Newquay.”

“Yeah, Lahinch has always been a summer seaside holiday spot,” says Fergal. “It is only two hours’ drive from Dublin and gets pretty crazy, especially if the sun shines for more than two hours in a row. It’s not as good for big waves in summer, but if you like to drink and dance…” The parties are, allegedly, pretty crazy.

We all eat a quick lunch then do a surf check. This reveals that indeed there is the possibility, as Fergal mentioned earlier, of a Riley’s session. Back at the boys’ pad I am caught up in a whirl of activity as the surfboards, jet skis, wetsuits, tow ropes and God knows what else are thrown into their four-wheel drive ready for an assault.

Fergal and Tom head to the harbour to launch the jet ski, while I join Mickey for the half-hour drive to the break. Once again the sheer remoteness and beauty of the coastline dominates the journey. Mickey, originally from Cornwall, has spent 10 years surfing, exploring and photographing this coast, and Riley’s (named after his other goddaughter) was another of his finds. We park up in a field and walk 20 minutes down to a rocky platform that is literally in the middle of nowhere.

“I’ve walked this coast for a decade, just looking for new waves. It takes a lot of time and huge amounts of patience,” says Mickey. “Luckily Fergal and Tom are as keen as I am, and it helps that they will literally ride any wave, no matter how big or dangerous.”

And on cue, the whirr of a jet ski announces the pair’s arrival – in a superhero-like entrance clad in full-length wetsuits, boots, hoods and gloves, framed against the isolated cliffs and caves. For the next hour they ride massive waves that are breaking in about 30cm of water, over a flat rock shelf about 5m from shore and about three hours from medical help. I watch with a mix of horror and awe, appreciation and incomprehension. When a wind change leads to deteriorating conditions, the boys speed off back up the coast, Mick packs up his camera and I lift my jaw off the floor.

There’s nothing else for it but to head back to Lahinch for a cold pint of Guinness in a warm pub, and to toast the dangerously beautiful Irish coast and the mix of bravado and talent of these guys who have dedicated their young lives to riding and documenting it.
WATCH THE ACTION AT WWW.RELENTLESSENERGY.COM

Fancy doing it yourself?
… or maybe something safer
Ireland has been surfed since the early 1960s with areas around Cork, Dingle and Bundoran boasting amazing waves and thriving surf communities. Lahinch itself and the Cliffs of Moher are about 50km from Shannon Airport, and Lahinch Surf School (www.lahinchsurfschool.com), run by Irish Senior Surfing Champion John McCarthy, offers numerous options for beginners and more experienced surfers, with equipment included.

If a round of golf is more your thing you’re in luck, as Lahinch Golf Club (www.lahinchgolf.com) – known as the “St Andrews of Ireland” – is recognised as one of the premier links courses in the world.

10 Top surf destinations
across the Ryanair network

1 Agadir, Morocco
Best for powerful Atlantic breakers.

2 La Rochelle, France
Best for laid-back surfing and the lovely surrounding landscape.

3 Thurso, Scotland
Best for high-quality tubing waves.

4 Newquay, England
Best for respectable British waves.

5 Jerez, Spain
Best for beginners and mellow spring breaks.

6 Biarritz, France
Best for historic surfing action.

7 Porto, Portugal
Best for honing your skills.

8 San Sebastian, Spain
Best for top-end party fun and epic waves.

9 Bundoran, Ireland
Best for powerful reef breaks.

10 Tenerife, Spain
Best for Hawaiian-style thrills.