The Beautiful South

For a winter city break, southern Spain is hard to beat. Our writers' hot spots for the cooler months are Seville, Malaga and Alicante

SEVILLE
ORANGE TREES AND LANGOUSTINES

When you think about it, it would make sense for Seville to be the capital of Spain. Residents of certain other cities might not agree (the residents of the actual capital, Madrid, spring to mind). But some of Spain’s greatest exports, like tapas and flamenco, are emblematic of Andalusia and the province’s capital, Seville. In this city you’ll see children on the street practising the complicated clapping rhythms of flamenco, not as a show to entertain tourists, but just for fun, and because it’s part of the culture. And despite the fact that Seville, with its Arab-influenced architecture and orange trees, could have been built expressly to sell postcards, it’s actually not a touristy city. That’s especially true in winter, when you have fewer international visitors to share it all with. The weather’s beautifully mild, too, making this a brilliant time of year to soak up Seville.

WHERE TO EAT

Foreign visitors to Seville have an advantage. Because most of us come from cultures where we eat earlier than they do in Spain, we stand a chance of getting a table at many of the best restaurants without booking. You have to arrive very early indeed, though, to get a table at tapas bar La Eslava (5 Calle Eslava, tel: +34 954 906 568). There are only a few tables tucked away at the back but even if you’re rammed up against the bar, the food, especially the pork cheeks, is ludicrously good considering you can eat well, with a drink, for about €10.

Even better value is another tapas bar, Bar Ambigu (47 Calle Feria, tel: +34 954 381 015), in the Macarena barrio (where the girl in the song was from). It doesn’t look much but the set menu for €7.50 during the day is paradise for the stingy gourmet.

If you’re really determined to spend money you could try La Azotea (31 Calle Jesús del Gran Poder, tel: +34 955 116 748, www.laazoteasevilla.es), which has an innovative, modern approach to tapas. The filo triangles with langoustines and cheese are particularly enticing. Even at this upmarket spot, it’s hardly expensive, especially as you can buy wine at their shop across the street and drink it with your meal.

With this kind of competition you have to feel sorry for anyone attempting to open a high-end restaurant, but famous Basque chef Martin Berasategui has taken the plunge, and his Santo at the EME Catedral Hotel (29 Argote de Molina, www.emecatedralhotel. com) won its first Michelin star last year. The glass floor that looks down to the Roman ruins below is highly symbolic of a cuisine that doesn’t let anything obscure the fresh and simple, locally bought flavours.

WHERE TO DRINK

If nightlife in Seville starts with tapas it certainly doesn’t end there. More often it ends, some time after the sun’s come up, with eating chocolate con churros (fried batter dipped in hot chocolate) direct from one of the many stalls or cafés around the city centre. Before that, though, the evening might get going with a drink at Café Central (64 Alameda de Hércules, tel: +34 954 385 492). The Alameda de Hércules used to be the kind of place that decent people would avoid after dark but it’s now Seville’s coolest square, and sitting at one of the tables that spill out of Café Central is a good way to plan the evening ahead.

This might involve a trip to Merchants Malt House, (12 Calle Canalejas, tel: +34 954 214 500, www.merchantpub.com) an Irish-owned pub that’s more than your typical expat “Irish pub”. They’ve captured the spirit of a genuine, good old Irish boozer and given it a Spanish twist.

For something a bit more exotic, there’s El Garlochi (26 Calle de los Boteros) which is so stuffed with religious iconography that it appeals simultaneously to lovers of both God and camp irony. Try the absolutely sacrilegious Blood of Christ cocktail, made of whisky, champagne and grenadine.

Another essential Seville experience is the flamenco at La Casa de la Memoria (28 Calle Ximénez de Enciso, tel: +34 954 560 670). For more familiar thrills, the Jackson club (21 Calle Relator) will have you dancing to funk and disco till dawn – or till it’s just too crowded to dance any more.

WHERE TO SLEEP

The Santa Cruz part of Seville, with its maze of streets, whitewashed buildings gleaming in the sun and tiny, perfect squares, is famously easy to get lost in. If you’ve managed to make your way through to Las Casas de la Juderia (5 Calle Santa María La Blanca, www.lascasasdelajuderiaseville.spainhotels.it; doubles from €88), then its own labyrinth of romantic courtyards, fountains and corridors should hold no fear. It’s like a little Santa Cruz in miniature.

The Casa del Maestro (5 Niño Ricardo, tel: +34 954 500 007, www.lacasadelmaestro. com; doubles from 126), captures some of the city’s spirit, too: in this case via flamenco. It used to be the home of celebrated guitarist Niño Ricardo and each room is decorated in a style inspired by one of his songs.

A little further out from Santa Cruz the Boutique Hotel Holos (8 Calle Uruguay, 41012, tel: + 34 954 29 60 69 www.hotelholos.com/es; doubles from €89) offers a more relaxed take on Seville, with arty but comfortable design and a covered terrace. It’s a 30-minute walk from the centre but as much of that’s through the beautiful Maria Luisa park that’s not so bad. If you want to combine tranquility with being in the heart of things, though, Casa No7 (7 Calle Virgenes, tel: +34 954 221581, www.casanumero7.com; doubles from €177) is the place. It’s right on the edge of Santa Cruz but they’ve banned TV and radio in a valiant attempt to achieve what might seem impossible: a quiet holiday in Seville.

MALAGA
POP-UP BARS AND FLAMING FISH

Folk down on the Costa del Sol say they can tell what sort of person you are whether you hang a right from Malaga airport – towards the main sun-drenched strip of Benalmádena, Fuengirola and Mijas – or a left to the quieter eastern side of the costa. There’s more than enough to see and do in Malaga itself, though.

Authentically Spanish, warm and welcoming, Malaga is a truly fun city inhabited by the party-minded malagueños who revel in their Mediterranean lifestyle, superb food and enviable climate.

At its heart is the quaint old part of the town, where Picasso grew up, and where local boy-made-superstar Antonio Banderas often makes an appearance. Great shopping streets line the southern part of this compact city as does a nice chill-out zone in the form of the Paseo del Parque gardens. From there you are minutes away from the city’s beaches and famous chiringuitos – beach bars with flame-cooked fish, some of which are open year round, as Malaga is blessed with generally mild winters.

For a grandstand view head up to the Moorish castle, the Gibralfaro, which overlooks the city and the port. Beneath this is the Alcazaba palace where the intricate geometric designs are said to have inspired parts of Granada’s Alhambra, while charming, hidden-away squares filled with orange groves ooze style. Just like this beautiful capital of the Costa del Sol.

WHERE TO DRINK

Malaga’s Moorish-infused old quarter is both the prettiest and liveliest part of the city come nightfall. You’re spoilt for choice with a multitude of tapas bars but any of the establishments in Pasaje Chinitas makes for a good starting point. The classy Gorki (6 Calle Strachan, tel: +34 952 221 466, www.gorki.es) is a hip place to drink fine wine, watch the animated locals and enjoy some of the best tapas in the city. Hugely popular Bar El Pimpi (62 Calle Granada, tel: +34 952 228 990, www.bodegabarelpimpi.com), with a courtyard and maze-like interior, is packed to the gunnels with Malaga’s trendy set before the clubs open. It’s good any time, though. Metal and rock fans should find Bar Lemmy (9 Calle Mariblanca, www.myspace. com/barlemmymalaga) hits the loud button from 9pm till 3am.

WHERE TO EAT

Malaga, being thoroughly Spanish in its eating habits, sees groups of gregarious locals enjoying delicious seafood and salads throughout the day. The city really begins to buzz in the evening, however, when the malagueños hit the tapas before tucking into some serious eating later on.

The chiringuitos – pop-up bars and food shacks – are hugely popular and perfect for soaking up the winter sun while filling your tum. Try Chiringuito La Malagueta (Malagueta beach) where you can see tasty skewered sardines and other treats from the sea being cooked on an open fire.

Nearby, the upmarket Adolfo Restaurant (12 Paseo Marítimo Pablo Ruiz Picasso, tel: +34 952 601 914) serves delicious Andalusian meals. Its speciality is a lobster porra – a very moreish regional dish somewhere between gazpacho and pâté in consistency.

In town, the tiny street Pasaje de Chinitas, off Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución), is a foodies’ paradise. Battered fish, especially the rosada, at Taberna Rincon Chinitas is always mouth-wateringly good and ultra fresh (Pasaje de Chinitas).

WHERE TO SLEEP

The centrally located four-star Hotel Molina Lario offers a little luxury and seclusion in its a tasteful garden terrace. It’s also good value with rooms and views of Malaga’s cathedral from €95 (20-22 Calle Molina Lario, tel: +34 952 062 002, www.hotelmolinalario.com).

Another good four-star option is Hotel Ms Maestranza where you’ll get cava and a warm reception on arrival. Ask for an upper floor room for views over the bullring. ¡Olé! Double rooms €100 if booked online (1 Avenida Canovas del Castillo, tel: +34 952 213 610, www.msmaestranzamalaga.com).

For something with a beautiful Moroccan theme, and also a great location, get yourself booked into the cosy El Riad Andaluz (24 Calle Hinestrosa, tel: +34 952 213 640, www.elriadandaluz.com). Double rooms, each unique, start from €55 in the low season.

ALICANTE
FAKE TOMATOES AND FAIRYTALES

Alicante has been the starting point for a lot of happy holidays on the Costa Blanca. Just get a bus or a taxi and you can be in Benidorm, Santa Pola or Torrevieja in less than an hour. But Alicante itself has now stepped decisively out of the shadow of its famous neighbours. The splendid town hall square, Plaza del Ayuntamiento, has been given a makeover, and cash has been injected into the award-winning museums and art galleries. There are spruced-up parks, plazas and open spaces. The Casco Antiguo, or old town, winds its way up towards the castle through brightly coloured streets festooned with flowers.

If you fancy a change from Postiguet beach you can now take a slick, modern tram along the coastline to the shining beaches of San Juan. Erasmus students have poured into the city in increasing numbers and many of them end up staying, seduced by the heady nightlife and romantic possibilities. The terrace bars of El Barrio, the party district, are crammed even in the mild winters and the nightlife doesn’t peak until the early hours.

WHERE TO EAT

When it comes to eating in Alicante, there’s a lot more than paella on the menu. In fact Silvia Castelló, owner of the Alicante institution the stylish Nou Manolín (3 Villegas, tel: +34 965 200 368, www.noumanolin.com), and its sister restaurant Piripi (30 Oscar Esplá, tel: +34 965 227 940), says that paella is not a word they use much here. In Alicante, the dish is traditionally just called “rice” with whatever it happens to come with. You’ll find Nou Manolin is refreshingly laid back for a place where they take the quality of the food – traditional Alicante specialties such as salted fish, as well as the best ham – so seriously. Piripi has a similar layout, with a friendly tapas bar downstairs and a grand dining room upstairs. Dishes are simple and based on quality seasonal produce.

For Basque food, try a light bite at L’Ambrossía (8 Calle Argensola, tel: +34 966 270 255). Chef Oscar’s huevos rotos con bacalao al pil-pil (scrambled eggs with fried cod) will set you back just two euros. This place is relaxed and cool – they were playing American alt-rock band Modest Mouse when I dropped by.

Another Basque dining phenomenon that has sailed down to Alicante is Katagorri (35 Calle Rambla de Méndez Núñez, tel: +34 965 153 517 and 29 Calle Portugal, tel: +34 965 926 008, www.katagorri.com). Regular visitors to Spain will probably have tried similar pinchos (tapas on sticks) before, but Katagorri is a cut above.

You shouldn’t miss Cerveceria Sento, either (Calle Teniente Coronel Chapuli, tel: +34 965 211 453). It’s a bit of a squeeze, but that’s the fun of it, with about 12 stools, a bar and some danger of spilling owner Pedro’s wonderful but slightly messy montaditos (sandwiches) over your neighbour. At weekends crowds spill out onto the street.

While Pedro seems to be in no hurry to expand, La Barra de César Anca (1 Calle Ojeda, tel: +34 965 201 580, www.cesarancahosteleria.com) has recently had to add another room to cope with the demand for its unique take on tapas. The most eye- catching is their menu of “innovations”. These include el tomate falso – a scoop of green cheese which has been sculpted to look like tomato. It’s nicer than it sounds!

WHERE TO DRINK

In El Barrio – the most popular part of the city to go out in – the atmosphere is always enormously lively, friendly and fun, with tables outside almost every bar. The streets between la Rambla and the Castle are packed with tables and bars like Desdén are just as popular with locals as visitors, while the many students are drawn to the dancefloors of bars like Goa (Calle Labradores), where there’s still a possibility of hearing Whigfield’s forgotten classic Saturday Night.

Some of the most interesting bars are tucked away. Coscorrón (9 Calle Tarifa) is just behind the central Calle de los Labradores. Step cautiously through its tiny door – the name Coscorrón means “bumped head”. With a jazz soundtrack, the atmosphere somehow feels smoky despite the smoking ban, while the relaxed and low-key Pixies bar (10 General Primo de Rivera, tel: +34 965 140 828), named after the American band, is very much a rock bar. Elsewhere the stylish Mono (18 Calle Cienfuegos) is all about geek-chic, with 60s pop playing and a curious blue light illuminating proceedings, as though someone’s left a fridge door open.

On the other side of La Rambla, you can tell that The Globe (22 Calle Castaños) is the cheapest place on the street (€1 a caña) by the fact that it’s almost impossible to get a table outside. It’s equally difficult at Bar Soho 45 Calle Rambla Méndez Núñez, tel: +965 147 143), probably because the romantic, ancient trees give this terrace bar a secluded, fairytale glade feel, even on the main drag.

WHERE TO SLEEP

In Alicante you don’t have to pay a lot of money to stay somewhere with character. In fact it almost seems as though – unless you go for the beautiful five-star Hospes Amérigo (7 Rafael Altamira, tel: +34 965 146 570, www.hospes.com/amerigo), where doubles go from €105 – the less money you pay the more character you get. Try the wonderful Les Monges Palace (4 Calle San Agustin, tel: +34 965 215 046, www.lesmonges.es) in the old town, with its homely charm and haunted castle-style stone walls. Doubles from €45.

Cheaper still is the Boutique Hostel de Sal (9 Calle Carmen, +34 965 211 720, www.hostaldesal.com) which has a terrace with views of the castle and a shared living area with a film projector. A bed in a shared dorm will cost you €18. Private rooms from €49.

You’ll soon spot the Tryp Gran Sol (3 Rambla de Méndez Núñez, tel: +34 902 144 440, www.solmelia.com) in the centre of the city, with its mural that looks like a giant wobbly starfish sliding down one side. From its balconies the views over the sea, castle and city are unbeatable. Doubles from €69.

If the view you’re interested in is the start of the Volvo Ocean Race (the round- the-world yacht race that starts here on 29 October), the Meliá (3 Plaza del Puerto, tel: +34 965 205 000, www.meliaalicante.com) has the prime position, slotted between Postiguet beach and the marina. Doubles from €99 (rising in the week of the race).

Conveniently close (2km) to the airport, is Hotel Areca (2 Calle Limón, tel: +34 965 685 477, www.hotelareca.es), a four-star with a free spa. Rooms start from less than €60.

El Palmeral de Madaria (15 Calle de la Encina, +34 649 021 484, www.elpalmeraldemadaria.es) offers holiday apartments, a pool surrounded 60 varieties of palm tree from around the world.