15 December 10
Features
Sweet 16
With more slopes than you can shake a ski pole at, Europe boasts almost as many ski resorts. We run down the 16 best traditional spots for downhill fun.
We've all got a romantic image of the perfect ski resort — cosy chalets draped in snow, friendly bars with roaring log fires, and spectacular mountain scenery all around. Alf Alderson looks up some of the best traditional resorts to stay in this winter
1 LE PRÉ
FRANCE
You may not have heard of Le Pré, but you’ll certainly have heard of the resort it’s linked with — Les Arcs. An ancient church lies in the centre of this alpine hamlet, surrounded by tastefully converted chalets and farm buildings. A couple of fine bars and restaurants (try La Ferme) round things off nicely, and Les Arcs’ vast ski area is only a chair lift away.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Do the “Flying Kilometre” speed run, where you can reach speeds of up to 250km/h.
2 LES CONTAMINES
FRANCE
Tucked beneath Mont Blanc, and as traditional as it gets, Les Contamines offers appealing wooden chalets and a busy village square. Shop for local produce at the weekly food market – ideal if you’re staying self-catering – or sample the lovely mountain restaurants. The resort benefits from snow-sure slopes, and a relatively quiet après-ski scene for those who prefer to chill rather than party all night.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Try the long red run from the top of the Col du Joly – 1,000m of vertical will have your quads screaming for a break.
3 STUBEN
AUSTRIA
Stuben is a lovely 800-year-old mountain village set high in Tyrol above St Anton – and, unlike its rowdy neighbour, doesn’t have the party-town reputation. This is a resort for purists, because some of the finest skiing in Europe lies literally on your doorstep, especially for more advanced skiers. You’ll rarely experience the crowds of the pistes closer to St Anton and, for beginners, there’s an excellent ski school too.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Some of the world’s finest tree skiing can be found above the village.
4 ALAGNA
ITALY
Part of the pleasantly sprawling Monterosa Ski area, Alagna is a quiet little village where ancient farmhouses and chalets cluster around a sturdy old church. Needless to say, the après-ski scene is low-key, but the skiing itself is so good you’ll probably be too tired for clubbing anyway. Seasoned skiers can enjoy some great off- piste, and – if you’re feeling flush – have a go at heliskiing.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Take the helicopter lift to Monte Rosa, ski to Zermatt in nearby Switzerland and return off-piste via Cervinia!
5 LEOGANG
AUSTRIA
Leogang is a pretty settlement sitting at the northern end of the Saalbach-Hinterglemm Skicircus area, which some would say is well named — Saalbach in particular has a reputation as a boisterous party town. But if you want something a little less frenetic you’ll be in business in Leogang, situated in a lovely mountain valley beneath the mighty Birnhorn peak. R&R after a hard day on the area’s excellent intermediate terrain is more likely to be a glühwein beside a cosy log fire than dancing on the table in your ski boots.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Take a break from the downhill action with a day of cross-country skiing on the picturesque trails around Leogang.
6 ARGENTIÈRE
FRANCE
Most visitors wander Argentière gazing awestruck at the glaciers and needle-like peaks that appear to almost hover over this spectacularly located old mountain village. Way up there among the clouds there’s some of the most exciting ski terrain in the world. So it’s quite nice at the end of a day to relax at the good range of restaurants and bars, like The Office, a popular bar with food and live music, where you may find yourself rubbing shoulders with a famous freerider or two.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Spectacular glacier skiing off the back of the Grands Montets cable car from the village centre.
7 GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN
GERMANY
Skiing is in the blood at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, venue for the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships in February. Garmisch is the more attractive and traditional of what were once two villages now pretty much merged into one. Set beneath Germany’s highest mountain, the 2,962m Zugspitze, the surroundings are equally memorable. Pay a visit to the Richard Strauss Institut, paying homage to the celebrated composer who lived and died here.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Follow in the ski tracks of the experts on the infamous Kandahar downhill course.
8 CORTINA
ITALY
Cortina’s dazzling combination of glitz and glamour attracts well-heeled Italians who come here to be seen on its glorious piazza, and may never go near the slopes – which consequently don’t usually get too crowded! Above the beautiful town are the Dolomites, some of the most magnificent mountains in the world. Being Italy they’re dotted with great restaurants – where else could you visit a wine bar with some 700 wines on offer (Enoteca), watch winter polo on the skating rink and view more mink coats in a day than you’ll see elsewhere in a year?
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: The Hidden Valley above Cortina is one of the loveliest ski runs in the world, and possible for any decent intermediate skier.
9 HIGH TATRAS
SLOVAKIA
For families looking for a winter holiday with a difference, the tongue-twister resorts of the High Tatras mountains offer an eclectic experience. Tatranska Lomnica, Stary Smokovec, Vysoke Tatry, Jasna and Strbske Pleso provide fun, easy skiing, and at day’s end you can wander around the unusual mix of ski jumps, bars and restaurants. Hotels range in style from fin-de-siècle Habsburg Empire piles to modern five-star luxury. Take a trip on the funky electric mountain railway to nearby Poprad, where kids can run wild in the huge AquaCity water park.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: The ski jump at Strbske Pleso is used for both training and competitions on a regular basis, so you may well see humans getting as close to non- powered flight as possible.
10 TIGNES LES BRÉVIÈRES
FRANCE
Many skiers seeing the word Tignes may think “great skiing but everyone knows it already”. However, the attractively renovated old village of Tignes-les-Brévières is tucked away in a wooded valley beneath Tignes proper. It’s at the lowest point of the massive ski area, which means some of the longest runs on the mountain end here, like the exciting black Sache. The village itself has a cheery vibe, and makes a fine and cosy base to retire to after a day on the slopes.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Ice diving beneath the freezing waters of Tignes-le-Lac (www.tignesplongee.com).
11 LECH
AUSTRIA
If you like your traditional alpine village to beautify itself even further under a thick layer of snow, then Lech is for you. One of the most snow-sure resorts in the Alps, it’s a busy spot filled with plenty of pretty chalets. The area is frequented by well-heeled Germans and Austrians, which can give a lively feel to the streets and the wide selection of bars and restaurants. Fortunately though, the slopes rarely get too crowded, so you can make the most of all that snow without having to queue for it.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Enjoy the luxurious rides up the mountain – Lech has several heated chair lifts!
12 COURMAYEUR
ITALY
With mighty Mont Blanc (or Monte Bianco to use the Italian) and its glaciers towering above, a pedestrianised area allowing you to stroll at leisure through the quaint village centre, and some superb restaurants both on and off the mountain, Courmayeur is traditional with a capital T. To be honest, the range of skiing is rather limited – but if a ski holiday for you is also about wandering along ancient cobbled streets to explore small bars and shops, people- watch, and dine in style, then Courmayeur is one to check out.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Strong skiers can take on the spectacular Vallée Blanche, one of the most dramatic off-piste runs in the Alps.
13 VAUJANY
FRANCE
Vaujany, which links to Alpe d’Huez via a large cable car, is growing fast — so how long it retains its quiet charms is debatable. That said, the new developments are in traditional style, resulting in a winning mix of good looks and modern facilities, with the focal point of Vaujany being the car-free zone at the top of the village. You’ll find a fine range of skiing for all abilities on the slopes above, and if you tire of all these there’s more than enough to go at in the rest of the Alpe d’Huez area.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: The Sarenne is the longest black run in the Alps, with 2,000m of vertical.
14 OBERGURGL
AUSTRIA
This ancient and appealingly named settlement lies high in the Alps at the end of a mountain road. The village centre consists of a small square with fountain, church and rustic hotels, overlooked by snow-sure pistes that are ideal for families, novices and intermediates.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Check out the Nederhütte, where people will be dancing on the tables before the slopes have even closed.
15 ALPBACH
AUSTRIA
Alpbach is the kind of cute village you see on Christmas cards – church steeple rising above pretty, snow-laden chalets, the slopes above speckled with white-dusted trees and mountain peaks looming over it all. Even non-skiers will be delighted by the scenery, and they can enjoy lovely snowy walks or even a day trip to Innsbruck or Salzburg. Novice and intermediate skiers in particular will revel in the terrain here, making it a great option for mixed groups.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: The small resort of Reith nearby has floodlit night skiing if you can’t get enough of it during daylight hours.
16 ST MARTIN DE BELLEVILLE
FRANCE
An alternative to the massive Three Valleys ski area, the lovely mountain village of Saint Martin de Belleville stands out with its pretty 16th-century church all lit up at night. A couple of lifts carry you to an array of slopes at Méribel and Les Menuires for some of the Alps’ most varied skiing, and the après-ski action is pleasantly different, too. A popular option is the Pourquoi Pas? bar. Don’t be put off by the name, there’s a cool atmosphere and regular live music.
RESORT HIGHLIGHT: Stop off on the run home at the friendly, rustic Le Corbeleys restaurant.
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