Street riders

Barcelona has long been a mecca for art lovers, sun worshippers and night owls

Barcelona has long been a mecca for art lovers, sun worshippers and night owls. But, for some, its smooth pavements are more enticing than modernism and mojitos put together. Duncan Rhodes goes skating, a er touching down at Ryanair’s new base, El Prat. Photography by Susana Gellida

It’s late afternoon on Placa dels Angels in Barcelona and, as the shadow of the MACBA museum lengthens, visitors head home and students rush to grab one of the city’s public bikes from the square’s “Bicing” station, the rumble of four wheels on concrete is growing steadily louder. In twos, threes and fours they appear, in a kaleidoscope of bright clothes and trainers, body ink and stylish haircuts, as the placa finds itself shaken out of its daytime stupor by the arrival of Barcelona’s skate community.

Urban projects like the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona have totally revitalised the El Raval district by injecting some high culture into the area, and yet it’s fair to say that the vast majority of MACBA’s biggest fans – the skateboarders who gather outside it every night – have never visited any of its ambitious art displays, nor spent too much time contemplating the building’s ground-breaking white and glass curvilinear facade, a masterpiece of rational architecture.

For them, the crux of MACBA’s appeal lies in something much simpler: two perfectly flat, wide black ledges that run parallel to the building’s 120m-long exterior – ideal for sliding a nose or tail along. Combined with the several sets of stairs dotted around the placa, they offer abundant scope for freestyling and practising tricks. The placa is a boarder’s dream.

To the non-skater these architectural details may seem humble, but believe it or not people come from all over the world to pit their skills against them. People such as Darragh Forrester, for instance. “I persuaded my family to come here for a month just so I could skate,” says the 19-year-old from Ireland, in between tailslides. “I’m trying to go pro and everyone knows this is the best place to skate in the world. They recently opened a skate park in Dublin, just across the street from me, but here the atmosphere is totally different. We’re not hassled for skating. You go anywhere on your skateboard in Dublin and they tell you to clear out.”

As if to prove Darragh’s point, a policeman arrives at the square but, rather than send the boarders packing, the Catalan copper is much more concerned about the owner of an illegally parked van. Here, on Placa dels Angels, there appears to be a perfect symbiosis of skater and ordinary citizen. And just as that blissful co- existence seems threatened – Darragh’s flying ollie over one of the 1m-wide ledges sends him on a collision course with a pedestrian – the youngster pulls off the acutest of turns to ensure the happy relationship continues.

It was the restrictiveness of other cities that drove skateboarders from around the world to Barcelona in the first place. Pali Negrin Ramos, a local skater and worker at skate shop Free (www.freeskateshop.com), says the trend began about seven years ago.

“The main skater city used to be San Francisco. It was where the top brands went to film videos and take pictures of skaters,” he says. “But the police became very strict. They put ‘skate stoppers’ on the kerbs so that nobody could use them, and they started to fine skaters. The sponsors decided to change location for their film and photo productions. They chose Barcelona because of its architecture and perfect conditions.”

Every boarder in Barcelona will tell you the same: not only is the weather ideal but, with its flat terrain, smooth pavements and abundance of open spaces, the city was made for skating. “It’s like the architects who designed the city did it on purpose,” says Pali, who gravitated this way from Tenerife a decade ago.

According to Maria Luisa Al Bacar, head of foreign press relations at the Barcelona Tourist Board, the city operates a policy of reasonable tolerance when it comes to skateboarders. “There are designated areas in various placas and by the beach where it is fine to skate,” she says – check out our helpful map on page 66. If you’re not doing anyone any harm, skateboarding on pavements where it is forbidden or damaging public property you’re unlikely to run into any trouble.

If MACBA is the best place in Barcelona to practise your ollies, kick-flips and slides, then out by Barceloneta beach is undoubtedly the best place to go for a cruise, especially now that the Passeig Maritim stretches right up to the sailing ship glass facade of the W Barcelona hotel. This kilometres-long coastal boulevard is a favourite hangout for just about everyone – from holidaymakers taking a seaside stroll, to rollerbladers, bikers, and runners tuned into their iPods. Weaving between them all – on traditional style or, in increasing numbers, long boards – are Barcelona’s omnipresent skaters. As Paulo from Argentina explains, these stretched out boards are much faster and easier to propel than their shorter cousins, and are ideal for getting around quickly.

“I prefer the long board to a skateboard because I have to make a lot of trips,” he says. With this you just push off two or three times and then you relax. With a skateboard you’re working all the time.”

Tricks aren’t so easy but, as Paulo demonstrates, using the old sole of a flip-flop that he finds on the floor (you are supposed to wear special gloves), if you gather some speed you can sit on the board and use your hands to pull off assorted dangerous manoeuvres.

It’s this versatility, the combination of transport and tricks, pastime and practicality, that crops up in conversation with so many of Barcelona’s skaters when talking about their passion. For 28-year-old DJ and musician Juan Agustin Damico, his skateboard is his constant companion, whether he’s on his way to a gig, out clubbing or simply killing time.

“It’s the perfect excuse to go out,” he says. “Instead of going to a bar you go for a ride, and talk about whatever and have fun. It’s a social activity, a sport and a method of transportation without doing any harm to the environment. It’s like a pack of things. Everywhere you go in Barcelona you can take your skateboard.”

Are there any downsides to this environmentally friendly, social, sporting, and cost-effective transport device? Perhaps we should ask Juan’s band mates from their group S.T.F.U. “Last December, I broke my arm, and because of that we had to cancel a couple of really important shows in the UK,” he says. “We lost a lot of money – the tickets and everything. The guys threatened to kick me out of the band.”

So there are still some advantages to taking the Metro then.

WHERE TO SKATE

Parc del Forum

The city paved over the former execution ground of Campo de la Bota with this huge concrete “park”. As much pedestrian-free open space as you need, long smooth slopes for gathering speed, steps for tricks and plenty of otherwise pointless architectural features to play with.

Mar Bella Skate Park

Small park by Mar Bella beach, with several ramps for catching air and honing your lip tricks. Plus, a ping-pong table.

MACBA (Placa dels Angels)

Arguably the most famous place to skate anywhere in the world right now. Fantastic architectural backdrop, perfect ledges and several sets of stairs in this hip urban area. Plus, an incredible museum of contemporary art, and a great social atmosphere.

Placa Universitat

This rectangular “square” has plenty of smooth pavement for practising kick-flips, as well as three deliciously proportioned granite benches, ideal for slides and grinds. No shortage of passers-by to admire your skills.

Barcelona Sants (Placa Paisos Catalans)

The space surrounding Sants, the city’s main railway station, is fitted with an array of low and high benches, as well as small flights of steps to pit your wits against. Not as crowded as the likes of MACBA, yet still popular with the local skate set.

APRÈS SKATE

MANOLO BAR

Just off C/ Nou de la Rambla, Manolo is the number-one après-skate spot in the city. Expect film projections, cheap drinks, and a soundtrack of punk and indie rock, with DJs spinning on Tuesdays and Fridays.

3 C/ LANCASTER

NEVERMIND

Push your way past the thick black curtains to enter this suitably grungy bar in Barri Gotic. Skate videos play on repeat, while a predominantly 1990s soundtrack goes down well with a young crowd.

3 C/ ESCUDELLERS BLANCS, TEL: +34 663 710 095

PEPINO

Self-consciously stylish, Pepino attracts Barcelona’s modernos in droves. Compare arm-length tattoos with other too-cool-for- school patrons.

44 C/ NOU DE LA RAMBLA, TEL: +34 93 443 8636

For more skate culture, check out Relevant BCN magazine (www.relevantbcn.com), offering the latest in music and fashion from the underground. For graffiti and street art, visit the Base Elements gallery (www.baseelements.net). For cool gear, check out Free’s four skate shops (one is near MACBA, www.freeskateshop.com) for all you need to keep rolling.