15 March 10

City Focus, City Cents

Stockholm on the Ground

Cutting-edge design, hip style and culinary invention in a spectacular cityscape. Visit the Swedish capital now! Photography by Tim White

GET THE VIBE…

IN THE SWEDISH CAPITAL

On the intersection of Prastgatan and Kakbrinken in Stockholm’s central Gamla Stan district there’s a slab of stone with a curling lattice of red lines carved into it. Among these lines are a series of mysterious ancient runes that read: “Thorsteinn and Freygunnr, they [...] stone in memory of [...] their son.” You can fill in the blanks for yourself.

This stone, called simply “Uppland Runic Inscription 53”, or “U 53”, was probably transported from nearby, but is now one of the oldest things in the city. Gamla Stan itself means “old town”, and although U 53 commemorates the death of someone, it is here that Stockholm was born and grew up from the 13th century onwards.

Today, the city is spread out over 14 islands on a sprawling archipelago. Almost wherever you are, you are never far from the water’s edge, and this fact is made clear by the palpable freshness in the air.

But it’s Gamla Stan itself that has always been the centre of the action in Stockholm – for tourists and locals alike. So much so that until the mid-19th century it was called “själva staden”, meaning “the city itself”. So just like the city itself, you should begin here. With the most charming architecture in Stockholm, walking its (sometimes ridiculously) narrow streets is a unique pleasure – and some of the most venerable landmarks are nestled together in close proximity. Here you can take in the Royal Palace, Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities, the Nobel Museum, Saint Nicolaus Church, as well as famous local restaurants and bars. If you’re after souvenir kitsch, this is where you’ll find all the “Swedish“ shops too.

But Stockholm also expands southwards into Sodermalm, a district that came into ascendancy during the 1970s thanks to extensive gentrification, and today is renowned as an important hub of alternative and bohemian culture. Head to bar- and club-encircled Medborgarplatsen or walk down bustling Skanegatan to witness buzzing hives of activity, where the clubs are cutting-edge and the kids are too cool for school.

To the north of Gamla Stan are the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Ostermalm. These areas have a different reputation – rather than being trendy, they make up the posh part of town, with the highest house prices (and shop prices) in the city. Standing on Stureplan, a large public square, you are surrounded by elegant 19th-century architecture and glittering malls, with historic buildings such as the Riksdag (parliament), the Royal Dramatic Theatre and Royal Swedish Opera just a stone’s throw away. Take a stroll down Kungsgatan, Birger Jarlsgatan or round the bay of Nybroviken to experience the city at its most imposing.

Depending on how long you are staying, equip yourself with a Stockholm Card (www.stockholmpass.com), which come in 24-, 48- and 72-hour flavours for adults or children, costing 195SEK–625SEK (€20–€64). The card offers you unlimited use of the buses and underground, plus access to over 75 major attractions, including the Museum of Architecture, the Modern Art Museum, Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities, the Nobel Museum and the Toy Museum.

Use your time wisely, and you will come away from your visit having eaten like a king, partied late into the night with trendy hipsters, and slept it all off in glorious comfort. You will have been edified by fascinating museums about not only Sweden but the rest of the world too, have shopped till you dropped, and been charmed by the gorgeously preserved streets of Gamla Stan. And over the next 10 pages, we’ll show you how…

ON THE STREET…

GET YOUR CULTURE FIX THIS TRIP

You know the stereotype: safe but boring cars, cheesy but catchy pop music, and snazzy interior design. But stereotypes are limiting, and exploration reveals a vibrantly creative city full of educational and aesthetic wonders.

Take Stockholm’s most famous museum, Vasamuseet (www.vasamuseet.se 1), which contains the salvaged wreckage of the Vasa, the world’s only fully intact 17th-century ship. The stunning exhibit gives a glimpse into the exquisite craftsmanship employed in the day.

From waves to soundwaves, the Musikmuseet (www.musikmuseet.se 2) offers an installation about the history of Swedish music, culminating with an inevitable ABBA display. There’s also a current exhibition honouring Jenny Lind, “the Swedish Nightingale”, one of the most highly regarded opera singers of all time. But the real USP here are the instruments that visitors are invited to play themselves. Thus, when you enter the main room, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you had inadvertently walked in on the world’s most unhinged free jazz jam session!

If you want to hear jazz played by actual musicians, every Saturday from 2pm–6pm at Stampen (www.stampen.se 3) is a now-legendary four-hour jazz and blues free-for-all, in which musicians of all stripes, young and old, turn up and play to a packed crowd.

Check out the nearby Nobelmuseet on Stortorget (www.nobelmuseum.se). Housed inside the Stock Exchange Building, it’s a tribute not only to Alfred Nobel, but also to a
century’s worth of humanity’s greatest minds.

From scientific to artistic, Skeppsholmen boasts three museums for artsy types: Moderna Museet (www.modernamuseet.se 4), home to works by Duchamp, Picasso, Pollock and Munch; Arkitekturmuseet (www.arkitekturmuseet.se 5), which documents the history of Swedish architecture in exhaustive detail; and Ostasiatiska Museet (www.ostasiatiska.se 6), with its large collection of east-Asian art.

For a taste of the new, we met up with hip, young designers Gustaf Kjellin and Andreas Aaltonen, collectively known as Don’t Feed The Swedes (www.dontfeedtheswedes.se). Their work blurs the lines between design and art, appropriating familiar objects and presenting them in a new light. For instance, by enlarging the nozzle of a spray can, they created a very comfortable and modern chair, or by shrinking telegraph poles, they produced snazzy room dividers.

Most bizarre is their ping-pong table, made from 1,292 table tennis balls glued together into an ingenious coffee table. “We wanted to see if we could build a table consisting entirely of round objects – we could have used anything, but ping-pong balls fitted the purpose,” says Andreas. After years of producing their furniture independently, they’re now busy setting up a company called DFTS Factory, to mass-produce their innovative designs.

SEE THE WORLD

Ostasiatiska Museet is part of a larger group of four museums that focus on culture and art from around the world. Medelhavsmuseet (www.medelhavsmuseet.se 7) collects artefacts from the Near East, North Africa and the Mediterranean – among its collection of Egyptian, Greek and Roman treasures are the spoils of the famous Swedish Cyprus Expedition, which involved investigating the entire archaeological history of Cyprus. Etnografiskamuseet (www.etnografiska.se 8) brings together cultural artefacts from around the world, plus a permanent exhibition of Swedish exploration, and an exhibition of African dance masks that runs throughout the year. Finally, Varldskulturmuseet (www.varldskulturmuseet.se) is actually based in Gothenburg, and seeks to encompass the entire planet, with a wide range of exhibitions about world culture.

If you manage to see all four museums, you should leave with a comprehensive understanding of humanity, its culture and its history.

AT THE HOTEL…

THE BEST BEDS AROUND TOWN

As I arrive at the Scandic Malmen hotel (www.scandichotels.com/malmen, doubles from 790SEK/€80 a night 9) to check in, I find myself competing at the desk with two opponents: from one side a deafening blast of guitar, drums and vocals, and from the other peals of laughter. The hotel is a roar of activity even mid-week – stand-up comics entertain audiences every Wednesday, and its Lilla Hotellbaren bar hosts raucous live acts almost every night. But would you expect any less from one of the trendiest hotels in Sodermalm, Stockholm’s unofficial music district?

Right now, the hotel is hosting a season called “Check In, Rock Out” (running until 14 June), which allows you to act like a rock star in your room. Guests can request a Gibson guitar with mini-studio to be delivered upstairs so they can rock out upon arrival. The hotel itself boasts tastefully restrained decor in the rooms and public areas, and the other main bar, newly renovated in 2009, appears effortlessly natural.

If the waters surrounding Stockholm inspire you to find your sea legs, start off in Gamla Stan. The Collector’s Hotels (www.thecollectorshotels.se) offer three venues in the area: Victory Hotel (doubles from 2,100SEK/€214 10), named after Lord Nelson’s flagship, is their luxury hotel; Lady Hamilton Hotel (doubles from 1,900SEK/€193 11) is romantic and with a feminine touch; while the Lord Nelson Hotel (doubles from 1,700SEK/€173 12) has a naval theme and gentlemanly atmosphere.

Up in Ostermalm, Hotel Stureplan (www.hotelstureplan.se, doubles from 1,350SEK/€137 13) plonks you right smack in the centre of Stockholm’s high life, in a cosy and modest 19th-century building, and features a Bollinger Champagne Bar.

Opened in March 2009, Story Hotel (www.storyhotels.com, doubles from 1,710SEK/€174 14) strikes just the right balance between quirky and luxury. Book online and you’re sent an SMS or email with a five-digit code to enter your room. Once inside you’ll find a postcard on the bed with a picture of a man with a nasty black eye staring up at you. This is general manager Sören Hullberg, and the card is for suggestions, implying that he received the black eye from a disgruntled guest. It’s hard to imagine why, as the inventive design throughout makes the experience a memorable one.

Even if you’re just visiting the restaurant you might be inclined to stay the night. Having munched your way through some decadent tapas offerings, your romantic dinner may have gone well enough to order the most expensive item on the menu: a double room! The bar is extremely popular too, seemingly hoovering in all the glitziest folk from off the streets for some pre-Stureplan-partying drinks.

GO CHEAP!

Keep the costs down on your trip by checking out these places to stay. Castanea Old Town Hostel (1 Kindstugatan, tel: +46 (0)8 223551, www.castaneahostel.com, doubles from 620SEK/€63) prides itself on being one of Stockholm’s most central hostels, just 150m from the Royal Palace. Also in Gamla Stan are the Best Hostels (22 Skeppsbron, tel: +46
(0)8 411 9545, and 12 Trangsund, tel: +46 (0)8 440 0004, www.besthostel.se, doubles from 600SEK/€61). Friendly City Backpackers (2 Upplandsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 206920, www.citybackpackers.org, doubles from 650SEK/€66) is located about 500m from the main bus and train stations. Alternatively, Stockholm Budget Accommodation (tel: +46 (0)7 6230 3750, www.stockholmbudget.com) has a wide range of rooms and apartments around town and in the suburbs, with double rooms from 300SEK (€31) per person per night. They cater well for groups, too.

ON THE TABLE…

EATING OUT SCANDO-STYLE

Forget everything you ever knew about Swedish cuisine. Wow, done already? OK then, as with all major cities, food from all over the globe is available in Stockholm – but the city’s restaurants excel in updating traditional Scandinavian cuisine for modern palates. We found the best example of this at Leijontornet (www.leijontornet.se 15), a local institution founded in 1987. Here diners are seated under a low ceiling with intimate lighting, surrounded by the archaeological remains of a 14th-century city defence tower, known as Leijontornet (“the lion tower”). Guests can enjoy a stunning menu of Nordic herbs, berries and hearty meats prepared by chef Gustav Otterberg, all of which has justifiably earned him and the restaurant a Michelin star.

Gustav is also the chef of new and adjoining venture Djuret (www.djuret.se 16), for which he has set himself an ingenious challenge. He bases the entire menu around a single animal, which runs for three weeks before a new animal is brought to the cutting board. While we were there, reindeer was on the menu, presumably finding themselves out of work after Christmas. From the choice of front, middle or rear of Rudolph, I picked the front and received an excellent dish of shredded reindeer with cream, mushroom and lingonberry. However, reindeer will be off the menu by the time this goes to press, making way for Linderöd pig from 8–27 March, followed by spring lamb from 29 March–17 April. Booking for both venues is advised.

Another taste of traditional cuisine, this time with an eco/world twist, can be found at the Etnografiskamuseet (see On The Street, page 47). MatMekka’s menu has been devised by celebrity chef Carola Magnusson, who emphasises fresh, eco-friendly produce and combines rustic Swedish ingredients with some interesting world twists.

Seafood is a big part of Swedish cuisine – you all know gravlax – and new venue B.A.R. (www.restaurangbar.se 17) run by revered Swedish chefs Henrik Norström and Peter Johansson is an excellent catch, with delicious fish dishes served in an environment that’s so fresh that you feel healthy just sitting there.

But for the full gamut of Swedish tradition, walk through the hallowed gates of Ostermalms Saluhall (www.saluhallen.com 18) by Ostermalmstorget station, a sumptuous food market that has stood since 1888. Your eyes, nose and tongue will be met with a bewildering array of cured meats, fish, seafood, cheeses, bread and even local chocolates. Try not to let your eyes become larger than your stomach as you pick from the stalls, and take a seat to sample your spoils.

SPILLS & THRILLS

While exploring any city, you will eventually feel the urge for some liquid refreshment in the form of tea or coffee. Luckily, Stockholm is more than prepared to cater for your caffeine-craving needs. We all need an espresso in the morning, and renowned Caffé Nero (www.caffenero.se 19 not the chain) will certainly fire you up for a day’s exploration. Chaikhana (www.chaikhana.se 20) in historic Gamla Stan is serious about looseleaf tea, with 250–300 individual varieties on offer, all displayed in ornate tea caddies. It fills up around 3pm just as the tea-cravings start to set in. Vurma (www.vurma.se) is seriously cosy, with friendly sandwich names like “buddy” and “scruffy”, and has a number of outlets around town, including a pair in Sodermalm (21) and Ostermalm. Pick up the studenty vibe with a latte at Louie Louie (www.louielouie.se 22), which brings garden furniture indoors, sells records by the till and whose walls are slathered with cutesy illustrations and cartoons.

AT THE BAR…

WHERE’S HOT IN STOCKHOLM

With long dark nights during winter and lingering sunlight during summer, it’s no surprise that Stockholm has developed an energetic approach to nightlife: both extremes encourage people to stay out, it seems.

There are extremes within the city as well. Sodermalm is the bohemian side of town: boys’ hair is exquisitely sculpted to look messy, and the girls… well, they’re as pretty as always, but just look more likely to appear in a Death Cab for Cutie video than a Justin Timberlake one. See for yourself at hotel Scandic Malmen’s (see At The Hotel, page 49) Lilla Hotellbaren bar, where there are regular live bands, always for free.

From there you can head down Folkungagatan to cleanse your palate with an eye-watering “Bloodshot” (vodka with tomato, garlic, chilli and spices) from Garlic & Shots (www.garlicandshots.com 23), a garlic-saturated rock bar. As founders the Olsson brothers say: “As you leave, you should feel like you’ve been garlic-marinated. This is our mission from God”. After drinking one Bloodshot I can tell you they succeeded in their mission.

Guitars come thick and fast wherever you go in Sodermalm, be it excellent indie bar Snotty ( 24 ) on Skanegatan, or grunge megaclub Debaser (www.debaser.se 25). Or check out the DJs at the indie disco of Pet Sounds Bar (www.petsoundsbar.se 26), the sister club of Stockholm’s best record shop, Pet Sounds.

On the techno side, a random invite to a party while we were at Garlic & Shots took us to Kagelbanan in the Sodra Teatern complex (www.sodrateatern.com 27), which had for that night been transformed into an almost completely light-free zone, except for lamps on miners’ helmets worn by the bar staff, and ultraviolet lights illuminating the day-glo war paint patrons had smeared on their faces.

Now, how about something a little more refined? In contrast to Sodermalm, cross the city into the Ostermalm district, and you are among the moneyed elite of Stockholm, who have no time for ultraviolet insanity, and prefer to be completely visible in glitzy outfits at clubs like Magenta ( 28 ) and the most legendary club in this part of town, Sturecompagniet (www.sturecompagniet.se 29). As we approached the hallowed velvet ropes at the entrance, we were engulfed in a sea of young people desperately trying to force their way in. Once you do get the nod from the doorman, you enter palatial surroundings, with a central bar area beneath a 20m-high vaulted ceiling, and a rabbit warren of staircases and corridors leading to smaller bars on either side. The music is cheesier than a bag of Doritos, but seems to bring out frightening amounts of energy in the clientele, who drink and dance all night as the club fills up, until it starts to look like a poltergeist in a wig factory.

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

It’s said that the higher the altitude, the easier it is to get drunk. Urban myth? Perhaps, but in Stockholm going up has some weird effects. Check out Sturehof (www.sturehof.com 30): the terraced ground floor looks like a Parisian bistro, with trays of Champagne flutes hovering to and fro and a venerable crowd in their 40s and 50s. But climb the stairs to Mellanbaren (“in-between bar”) and suddenly the average age plummets a generation, as mid-30s guys and girls about town lounge in refined splendour. Climb another staircase and you enter Obaren, where early to mid-20s partygoers sip beer in a darkened amphitheatre, while animations are projected onto the wall and DJs play trendy rock and disco. You half expect a nursery one floor above that! But if you want to get really high, head to Och Himlen Dartill (www.restauranghimlen.se 31), on the 26th floor of Skrapan tower on Gotgatan. The highest bar in town offers luxurious cocktails to gorgeous people, with an even more gorgeous view over the city.

IN THE BAG…

EVERYTHING FROM COOL TO QUIRKY

Stockholm is famously pricey, but if you’re looking for somewhere to blow some cash, there are few better places: if nothing else because the city is so nicely divided up into different aesthetic styles. The difference between Ostermalm and Sodermalm, a local cannily pointed out to us, is that the people who hang out in Ostermalm spend a lot of money on looking good, while the people who hang out in Sodermalm spend a lot of money on looking like they haven’t spent a lot of money on looking good.

So plonk yourself down on Stureplan, a bustling square in Ostermalm. From here, Kungsgatan, a principle shopping street, stretches out to the east towards Hotorget, a square that’s home to a daily fruit and veg market and the historic PUB department store. Running north is Birger Jarlsgatan, a power-shopping stretch with snazzy interior design store G.A.D. (www.gadstockholm.se 32) and the Shaker-inspired furniture of Norrgavel (www.norrgavel.se 33) – both of which could be regarded as museums as much as shops.

For pure, concentrated, recession-defying materialism, duck into the glittering Sturegallerian mall (www.sturegallerian.se 34), where you’ll find Versace, Hugo Boss, Zara and Gucci, as well as prestigious Scandinavian brands such as Bang & Olufsen, Björn Borg and Awesome Rags!. Then unwind with a recuperative coffee or cake from Le Café or Le Gateau. A little more affordable is Ahlens City (www.ahlens.se 35) on Klarabergsgatan, less imposing but nevertheless offering a wide selection of clothing, beauty and more.

Down in Sodermalm, the shopping goes from chichi to boho in SoFo (www.sofo.se), the area “south of Folkungagatan”. Get your second-hand clothes from Lisa Larsson’s famous vintage clothing store (www.lisalarssonsecondhand.com 36) on Bondegatan, which serves as the walk-in wardrobe for the folks that frequent the nearby bars, especially the girls. On the same street you’ll find the New Age-y fashion of Tjallamalla (www.tjallamalla.com 37) and the plain weirdness of Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair (www.shoerepair.se 38).

Vinyl junkies with full wardrobes must head to Pet Sounds (www.petsounds.se 39), Stockholm’s best record shop. With classic film posters on the walls, beautiful box sets by everyone from The Velvet Underground to legendary Swedish lute-playing folk singer Evert Taube, and an extensive collection of new and classic vinyl, this is one for the hipsters.

If both your wardrobe and record collection are full, then check out Coctail (www.coctail.nu 40) on Skanegatan, a psychedelic day-glo playground full of fluorescent pink Bambi-shaped salt and pepper shakers, dashboard Jesuses (offering “enlightenment on a spring”) and nightmare-inducing Miffy lamps. Surely you don’t have any of these already?

FLEABRAINED

Even the most hardened shopper may find themselves intimidated by the abundance of high-end brands in Stockholm.

If you’re looking for something a little more down-to-earth, try a Swedish loppmarknad, or“loppis” for short. These flea markets are your one-stop shops for all things kitsch, with all manner of second-hand clothes and bric-a-brac laid out on tables for sale. Remember the philosophy: one man’s junk is another man’s treasure! Just south of the centre of Stockholm in Varberg, you’ll find Loppmarknaden (www.loppmarknaden.se), Scandinavia’s largest second-hand market. Take the red line towards Norsborg and get off at Varberg, where you enter a vast hall with over 250 stalls selling everything under the sun, from homemade arts and crafts to stuff that clearly couldn’t be hidden in the cupboard any longer. There is an entry fee on weekends: 15SEK (€1.5) on Saturdays and 10SEK (€1) on Sundays, but the rest of the week it’s free.

Photography: www.keenes.co.uk

1 / ROCKY

One of Sweden’s best-loved comic book characters, lazy, bad-tempered, hiphop-loving Rocky is a kind of canine Fritz the Cat, created by cartoonist Martin Kellerman. Pick up one of his collections at Comics Heaven (23 Stora Nygatan, www.comicsheaven.se) in Gamla Stan.

99SEK (€10)

2 / XOKO CHOCOLATE BOX

Made by top confectioner Magnus Johansson – who supplies desserts for the Nobel Prize dinners, no less – these little chocolate squares with praline, vanilla, walnut and toffee certainly have a sprinkling of genius. Find them at café and shop Xoko (15 Rorstrandsgatan, www.xoko.se).

160SEK (€16)

3 / DRUNKEN TREES BY FIRST AID KIT

Delicate harmonies and folk stylings make up this debut EP from sisters Johanna and Klara Söderberg. The songwriting and sound are confident, but for a more fleshed out version of their music, their album The Big Black and The Blue was released earlier this year.

120SEK (€12)

4 / AGNETA LIVIJN MUG

What makes these pottery products so popular – they’re sold as far afield as Japan and the US – is their charming, handmade appearance instead of the usual uniform lines and perfect curves. We bought this coffee mug from the shop at Story Hotel (see At The Hotel, page 49).

225SEK (€23)

5 / KALLES KAVIAR

Everything tastes better from a toothpaste tube, right? OK, maybe not, but this cod roe is a staple of the Swedish diet and tastes wonderful squeezed onto anything from crisp bread to crumpets. It also enjoys a nostalgic cachet thanks to its packaging, unchanged since the 1950s.

42SEK (€4)

WHERE IT’S AT…

MAP & CONTACTS

MAP ILLUSTRATION: IAN DUTNALL, www.DUTNALL.COM

1 Vasamuseet 14 Galarvarvsvagen, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 4800
2 Musikmuseet 2 Sibyllegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 5490
3 Stampen 5 Stora Nygatan, tel: +46 (0)8 205793
4 Moderna Museet Skeppsholmen, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 5200
5 Arkitekturmuseet Skeppsholmen, tel: +46 (0)8 5872 7000
6 Ostasiatiska Museet Skeppsholmen, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 5750
7 Medelhavsmuseet 2 Fredsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 5050
8 Etnografiskamuseet 34 Djurgardsbrunnsvagen, tel: +46 (0)8 5195 5000
9 Scandic Malmen 49–51 Gotgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5173 4700
10 Victory Hotel 5 Lilla Nygatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5064 0000
11 Lady Hamilton Hotel 5 Storkyrkobrinken, tel: +46 (0)8 5064 0100
12 Lord Nelson Hotel 22 Vasterlanggatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5064 0120
13 Hotel Stureplan 24 Birger Jarlsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 440 6600
14 Story Hotel 6 Riddargatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5450 3940
15 Leijontornet 5 Lilla Nygatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5064 0080
16 Djuret 5 Lilla Nygatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5064 0084
17 B.A.R. 4a Blasieholmsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 611 5335
18 Saluhall 114 Ostermalmstorg
19 Caffé Nero 4 Roslagsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 221935
20 Chaikhana 23 Svartmangatan, tel: +46 (0)8 244500
21 Vurma 31 Bergsunds Strand, tel: +46 (0)8 669 0960
22 Louie Louie 13 Bondegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 640 0271
23 Garlic & Shots 84 Folkungagatan, tel: +46 (0)8 640 8446
24 Snotty 90 Skanegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 644 3910
25 Debaser 8 Medborgarplatsen, tel: +46 (0)8 694 7900
26 Pet Sounds Bar 80 Skanegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 643 8225
27 Kagelbanan 1–3 Mosebacke Torg, tel: +46 (0)8 5319 9400
28 Magenta 61 Regeringsgatan
29 Sturecompagniet 4 Sturegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5450 7601
30 Sturehof 2 Stureplan, tel: +46 (0)8 440 5730
31 Och Himlen Dartill 78 Gotgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 660 6068
32 G.A.D. 34 Birger Jarlsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5454 8008
33 Norrgavel 27 Birger Jarlsgatan, tel: +46 (0)8 5452 2050
34 Sturegallerian 13a Grev Turegatan
35 Ahlens City 50 Klarabergsgatan
36 Lisa Larsson 48 Bondegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 643 6153
37 Tjallamalla 46 Bondegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 640 7847
38 Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair 46b Bondegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 642 8055
39 Pet Sounds 53 Skanegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 702 9798
40 Coctail 71 Skanegatan, tel: +46 (0)8 642 0740