10 November 09
Features
Ski & the city
Want to combine the magical pistes of Sauze d'Oulx with the piazzas of Turin, or the nightlife of Barcelona with the powder of Baqueira-Beret? Ben Mondy highlights five of the best city and ski options available this winter
Milan
FOR ALAGNA
THE CITY: Like each of the major European cities, Milan wears many hats. To the fashion crowd, it is up there with New York and London as one of the world’s style capitals. “The whole place is like London’s Bond Street,” according to Men’s Health fashion editor Olie Arnold, a Milan Fashion Week veteran. “And of course the beautiful locals are all very well turned out in their huge sunglasses and chic padded jackets.”
Then there is the city’s more cerebral side, with plenty of history and art to keep the culture vultures happy. From the immense Duomo (make sure you spend a good hour just people-watching on Piazza del Duomo) to the grand central train station, you’ll find some staggering architecture on display here. And that’s not to mention Milan’s Renaissance-era riches, foremost of which is Da Vinci’s famous mural The Last Supper. Throw in some fantastic food – you can’t really go wrong, whether it is fine dining or a street-corner pizzeria – and the local pride, epitomised by the fierce AC/Inter rivalry, and you have one of Europe’s most exciting weekend break destinations.
THE SNOW: If you’ve just been discovering one of Europe’s most romantic cities, it makes sense to hit up one of the Continent’s most romantic ski resorts. Alagna is one of the three hubs of the brilliant Monterosa ski area, one of those huge linked zones that our Italian cousins do so well. Visitors can enjoy some of the best skiing in Italy, and this somnolent village is filled with natural charm – making it perfect for families and experts looking for early nights and powder up to their armpits. It’s linked to the 180km of pistes of the Monterosa ski area (www.monterosa-ski.com), and the other two valleys Gressoney and Champoluc are also well worth a visit.
LOCALS DO: Heliskiing! It’s surprisingly cheap, and this area has some of the best in Europe.
LOCALS DON’T: Party much. This unspoilt part of Italy is more about couples and coffee than clubs and shots.
STAY: We’re in classic European family-run hostel territory here, like the three-star Hotel Monterosa (www.hotelmonterosaalagna.it). Within 100m of the lift, the hotel’s style is very traditional, and they can also provide great guides to show you around the mountain. For a slightly more upmarket option, Hotel Cristallo (
www.hotelcristalloalagna.com) has a spa and a bar that usually sees some gentle action.
FLY TO MILAN (BERGAMO) FROM 51 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EINDHOVEN, GRANADA AND LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
Granada
FOR THE SIERRA NEVADA
THE CITY: There is nowhere in Spain like Granada. Historic and gorgeous in so many ways, the city is located between the glittering Mediterranean and the Sierra Nevada mountains. See the Alhambra Palace, explore the hotch-potch streets of the Albaicín quarter, and party all night in bars that offer incredible free tapas every time you buy a drink!
THE SNOW: Just 25 minutes from Granada by car is Pradollano, a top resort on Mulhacén, mainland Spain’s highest peak at 3,482m. There are 36 slopes, 11 lifts, two telecabins, and numerous hotels, bars and restaurants. Overall, it’s one of the most underrated resorts in Europe, with loads of sun and perfect for day trips in winter. Check out WWW.cetursa.es for more information.
LOCALS DO: The Three Wizards Parade (5 January), when sweets are thrown onto the crowded streets from horse-drawn carriages.
LOCALS DON’T: Miss a fresh powder day – they are relatively rare and the terrain is perfect for it.
STAY: A good budget city choice is Granada B&B Homestay (www.granadahomestay.com), while in the mountains, Hotel Maribel (www.sierra-nevada-hotels.com) is a good mid-range option. Hospes Palacio de los Patos (www.hospes.com) offers palatial luxury in Granada.
FLY TO GRANADA FROM SEVEN DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BARCELONA (GIRONA), EAST MIDLANDS AND MILAN (BERGAMO). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
Turin
FOR SAUZE D’OULX
THE CITY: For a combination of incredible skiing and winter adventure you can’t argue with this pairing. Despite being the birthplace of Italian car production Turin is one of Italy’s greenest cities. Take in the panoramic views from the incredible Mole Antonelliana tower then stroll around the Quadrilatro’s avant-garde shops, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and scruffy Gran Balon market. Later try the elegant cafes of the Piazza San Carlo before hitting the modern late-night cocktail bars of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto with their vibrant atmosphere.
THE SNOW: At 79 km or just an hour and 30 minutes drive from Turin, the lively party resort of Sauze d’Oulx in the Susa Valley of the Piedmont region of the northwestern Italian Alps has it all. For the best après-ski parties around, this resort in an otherwise quaint village is it – there are 25 bars! But it’s the skiing that shines with 29 runs and 22 lifts as well as being on the Via Lattea (Milky Way) ski route that links it to the neighbouring resorts of Pragelato, Sestriere, Cesana, Claviere and Sansicario. One of the most exciting runs is the Gran Pista to Prariond, which descends 650 vertical metres, while the excellent run 29, which descends from Capanna Mollino, winds scenically between forests of ancient pine trees and larches. Check out www.comune.sauzedoulx.to.it for more information.
LOCALS DO: Drink Negronis, Turin’s signature cocktail, made with Vermouth Rosso, Bitter Campari and Gin.
LOCALS DON’T: Ski off-piste much in Sauze d’Oulx as the piste runs themselves are so good.
STAY: For luxury in Sauze d’Oulx try the 4-star Grand Hotel La Torre with its unusual round-tower architecture and relaxing wellness centre (www.grandhotellatorre.it). Be first on the piste each morning at budget stay Orso Bianco which sits right on the mountain at 2,135m. For stylish yet affordable accommodation in one of the most beautiful squares in Turin stay at the Hotel San Carlo (www.albergosancarlo.it) with rooms from €65 per night.
FLY TO TURIN FROM 12 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BARI, LONDON (STANSTED), DUBLIN, MADRID AND TRAPANI (SICILY). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
Barcelona
FOR BAQUEIRA-BERET
THE CITY: A compact, seaside metropolis that will always be hip, Barcelona has a well-preserved Gothic centre, boasting numerous architectural and artistic treasures. See Gaudí’s Sagrada Família and the Torre Agbar, then hit the countless boutique stores, bars and cool clubs. In winter, take advantage of the lack of crowds and cheaper prices by booking a table at some of the restaurants leading the Catalan nueva cocina revolution. We’d recommend the likes of Alkimia, Ca l’Isidre and Comerç 24.
THE SNOW: It takes about two hours by car to get from Barcelona to Baqueira-Beret, Spain’s most exclusive resort, set in the beautiful Valle de Arán. The skiing is good for all abilities and perfect for intermediates, with 86km of marked pistes, including four green runs, 25 blues, 20 reds and four blacks. The infamous run is the Escornacrabes from the top of Cap Baqueira, a scarily steep, narrow downhill plunge – the name translates as “the place where goats go to die”! The one downside is that the resort’s “best-kept secret” label (you can’t get there direct by train or air) is in danger of disappearing as more people are finding out about its great location.
LOCALS DO: Start the Barcelona Carnival celebrations with “Greasy Thursday” on 11 February, when vice, grease and gluttony will all be on the menu.
LOCALS DON’T: Stay up on the mountain in Baqueira-Beret – it’s much cheaper further down in the valley or even in Barcelona itself.
STAY: The Hotel Lacreu (www.hoteleslacreu.com) in Baqueira-Beret is cheap, with doubles from €88 a night. At the pricier end, there’s La Pleta (www.lapleta.com) from €275 a night.
If your pockets are big, it’s also worth trying the new W hotel (www.w-barcelona.com) in Barcelona, with double rooms from €205 a night in winter. Or the relaxed Catalonia Ramblas hotel (www.ramblas.barcelonahotels.it), with twin rooms from €114 a night.
FLY TO BARCELONA (GIRONA AND REUS) FROM 59 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AARHUS, DONCASTER AND MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
Munich
FOR GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN
THE CITY: In contrast with earthy, edgy Berlin, this southern city is filled with a traditional and southern German style. The old town (Altstadt) is the place to hang out, offering Bavarian hospitality, medieval architecture, beautiful squares and legendary beer halls, such as Hofbräuhaus (www.hofbraeuhaus.de). If you fancy a party, head to the trendy Schwabing district, where bistros abound and the clubbing is loud and late.
THE SNOW: Germany’s best ski town lies right under its highest mountain, the Zugspitze. Garmisch-Partenkirchen is less than two hours’ drive from Munich and has direct access to 43 individual pistes – some above 2,500m – and is served by 38 ski lifts. Snowboarders are well catered for, with wave rides, half and quarter pipes, plus at new year there is Garmisch’s famous ski jumping competition that draws crowds from far and wide.
LOCALS DO: Plan to spend 10–14 March hanging out at the FIS Ski World Cup.
LOCALS DON’T: Miss out on Munich’s winter Tollwood festival (www.tollwood.de) either. It’s a unique mix of cabaret, circus and variety acts held on 25–31 December.
STAY: In Munich, the luxury Mandarin Oriental (www.mandarinoriental.com/munich). In the mountains, Grand Hotel Sonnenbichl (www.sonnenbichl.de) or the great-value Atlas Posthotel (www.atlas-posthotel.com).
FLY TO MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST) FROM 10 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE, EDINBURGH AND PISA (FLORENCE). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM


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