15 December 09
City Focus
Salzburg
Ed Chamberlin finds the city even more magical in winter. Photography by Alexander Short
CITY CENTS
Ed Chamberlin hit the streets of the Austrian city with €100, and came back with…
1 / MET
For centuries, honey was a vital ingredient in alcoholic drinks in Europe, with mead (or “Met” ) being a real hit – mead in fact means “honey”. Mead isn’t as popular as it used to be, but there’s no decent reason for this. Redress the balance by purchasing a bottle from Joh. Nagy & Söhne (12 on map). €6.60
2 / MINIATURE VIOLIN
Feeling sorry for yourself? Aww… well allow me to play the world’s tiniest violin for you. Given the musical history of Salzburg, it’s no surprise that you can find a whole range of music-related souvenirs for sale. These miniature violins are everywhere and are surprisingly well constructed. €12.50
3 / LEBKUCHEN
Traditionally eaten during Christmas, these cookies have a gingery and cinnamony smell that certainly evokes the time of year. The soft, sweet and addictive treats make an excellent snack during the winter months, and are best enjoyed with a mug of hot punsch (traditional liquer) in hand. €4
4 / MOZARTKUGELN
Say what you want about Mozart, but the guy had balls! In fact, you can buy them all over Salzburg – these chocolate-covered pistachio and nougat sweets are a delicious local treat. But there are many “counterfeits”, so be sure to pick up the real deal from Café Fürst (20 on map). €11
5 / SPACE ROCK
As well as the classical music scene, there’s also Salzburg’s modern scene to get acquainted with. You’ll find a rich vein of hip-hop, electronica and indie, plus space rock from the likes of Elamboda, with their album Supernova. Head to Musikladen (58 Linzergasse, www.musikladen-salzburg.at ) for some tips. €19.90
6 / SCHWEDEN BITTER
Herbal tonic “Swedish Bitters” was invented by 15th-century physician Paracelsus, who spent the last years of his life in Salzburg. But the best reason for picking up a bottle is so that you can admire the stunning rococo décor at the Alte f.e. Hofapotheke (see 15 on map). €3.10
7 / SACHERTORTE
This is it, what Austria is famous for… in the cake world that is. Sachertorte is a delicious slab of choccy decadence, served up with a generous mound of whipped cream. For authenticity, insist on getting it from Hotel Sacher; the official recipe is registered to the Sacher name, and remains a closely guarded secret. €10.50
8 / CANDLE
In the creeping darkness of winter, candles enjoy a resurgence in popularity. The wax museum that used to operate on Getreidegasse has sadly closed its doors, so to celebrate the city’s long-standing wax producing history, pierce the winter nights with a flame atop a Salzburgthemed candle. €6.50
9 / GEWÜRZSALZ
Salzburg means “salt castle” in German, and the nearby Hallein Salt Mines have made the city a prosperous trading community for centuries. Buy salt products, like this rose petal and spices cooking salt, from Salzburg Salz (3 Wiener Philharmoniker Gasse, www.salzburg-salz.at ). €16.90
10 / MOZART UMBRELLA
No visit to Salzburg is complete without a souvenir with the famous composer’s face on it – and you’ll probably eat the Mozart balls before you get back home. So best to get something you can’t eat, but which is useful nonetheless. This umbrella has tiny samples of Mozart’s music scribbled around the canopy. €7.90


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