15 July 10

City Focus, City Cents

Rome On The Ground

From the Roman Empire to La Dolce Vita, this city has many guises. A few days spent amid the temples, piazzas, cafés and Vespa-packed streets should keep you eternally hooked. Words by James Williams. Photography by Tim White

PIAZZA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

GET THE VIBE…

COME, SEE AND CONQUER!

It’s 8.30am sharp, and I’m outside the Colosseum waiting for my tour to start when something strikes me. No, not a plastic sword from one of the Roman centurions striding about posing for photographs (that costs you, by the way) – but the realisation that this is a city where it’s perfectly OK to be a tourist.

Now that’s not to say you should strap on your bum bag, Dad sandals and I ¤ Roma baseball cap just yet. But there are so many crumbling ancient monuments, spectacular fountains, and myths and legends to take in around these parts that you may as well sit back and go with the flow – of the Tiber that is.

Indeed, if you like tales from long ago, then the one about the she-wolf who suckled Romulus and Remus by the banks of the river will be just for you. After building the city, the two brothers had a bloody fight over who should be in charge. Romulus was victorious and became the first king of “Roma” in 753BC. That founding date is one the historians do actually seem to agree on.

You’ve probably heard of Rome being called the Eternal City. Well, apart from its vast influence on world civilisation – spanning everything from art to religion – there may be other reasons behind the nickname. The eternal traffic jams for one! Difficulties in extending the metro stem from the strata of history preserved beneath the cobbled streets. One consolation is that it’s amazing to imagine, as you wander about, what really lies below your feet.

When you get tired of walking, the Roma Pass (€25, www.romapass.it) really comes in handy. Offering three days of unlimited travel on the reliable train, metro and bus network, it also gives you free or discounted entry into a host of top attractions, from the Colosseum to the Capitoline Museums – so you can do more than just use your imagination.

One thing you won’t miss – even if you’re only here for a day – is the locals’ eternal preoccupation with looking cool. Between 7pm and 9pm the bars and piazzas fill up with well-dressed boys and girls out to enjoy aperitivo. Flickering like fireflies around Rome’s iconic fountains, they enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail, as the sun lends a hazy summer’s glow to the proceedings. Get down to Piazza Navona in the city centre or hit the streets of the hip Trastevere district across the river, and it’s like the last days of Rome.

Finding your way around is usually pretty easy – there are just so many landmarks! Rome’s first communities were defined by its seven hills, which were later encircled by the Aurelian Walls in 275AD. Today, the centro storico (historic centre), Tridente district (with the Spanish steps and high-end shopping), and buzzing Trastevere could keep you occupied for weeks. Yet working-class districts like Ostiense, Testaccio and Pigneto are also worth exploring for their burgeoning creative scenes.

But one thing’s for sure, this city has inspired a lot of people. All that classical, baroque and Renaissance art – with fantastic buildings, paintings and sculptures littered about the city – have enraptured writers from Lord Byron to Patricia Highsmith (author of The Talented Mr Ripley). Then there are the movies, like Roman Holiday and La Dolce Vita. Even Ridley Scott brought the Colosseum back into fashion.

And speaking of icons, those Vespas! Locals swear by them, and for many they are without doubt the best way to get around – the horn being much more useful than the brake.

Suicidal scooter riders aside, this has to be one of the most relaxed and friendliest capital cities in Europe. A growing contemporary arts scene, vibrant restaurants, a cool café culture, and hip bars aplenty mean there’s forever a new angle to explore.

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALGHERO, BARCELONA (EL PRAT AND GIRONA), BRINDISI, DUBLIN, EAST MIDLANDS, KRAKOW, MADRID AND TRAPANI. VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

ON THE STREET…

ROME’S GLORIOUS PAST AND FUTURE

It was a grim end for martyr St Lawrence – roasted to death on a gridiron. Yet apparently he was joking till the end, which could explain why today he is the patron saint of comedians, butchers and roasters.

Normally, just the thought of guided tours are sobering enough, but today lively Lucia from Artviva (www.italy.artviva.com) has kept our party wide-eyed for a full three hours from classical through to Renaissance Rome. Groups are always kept small, and their range of tours using expert local guides are an afternoon well spent.

You’ll never get through all of Rome’s sights in a day, so Lucia’s best advice is to sun yourself on the banks of the Tiber Island ( 1 ) dipping into a cool grattachecca – a granita-style cup of shaved ice, flavoured with fruit juice. It dates back to ancient times and can be bought from kiosks around town. Then get stuck into the Basilica of San Clemente ( 2 www.basilicasanclemente.com). A dazzling 12th-century church near the Colosseum, it’s built above a frescoed 4th-century church, itself built above a 1st-century Roman house and 2nd-century temple. You can walk around all three layers – which typify Rome’s lived-in character.

For more unique sights, stroll in past the big bronze doors of the 2,000-year-old Pantheon ( 3 ), where you’ll be instantly mesmerised by the ceiling. A misty beam of light pours through a wide circular hole in what is still the largest unsupported concrete dome in the world.

Speaking of light, two streets up is San Luigi dei Francesi ( 4 ), a church where you can admire three masterpieces by shadowy artist Caravaggio in their original setting. If show-stopping museums are more your thing, then see his works, alongside the likes of Canova and Bernini amid the prestigious halls of the Borghese Gallery ( 5 www.galleriaborghese.it).

Get bang up to date at the brand-new MAXXI ( 6 www.fondazionemaxxi.it) – the National Museum of XXI Century Arts designed by Zaha Hadid. An explosion of angles and curves, its dedicated spaces for contemporary art and architecture have brought a palpable sense of excitement to the city. It also follows hot on the heels of MACRO ( 7 www.macro. roma.museum), a former industrial complex turned contemporary culture centre.

This year sees the 25th anniversary of the Romaeuropa Festival (21 September–2 December, www.romaeuropa.net). Hosting some 40 performances of dance, theatre and music, it includes French dance company Montalvo Hervieu, New Order’s Peter Hook and techno legend Laurent Garnier. It’s the perfect opportunity to sample stunning venues like the Auditorium Parco della Musica ( 8 www.auditorium.com) and Villa Medici.

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRATISLAVA (VIENNA), CAGLIARI, OSLO (TORP) AND SEVILLE. VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

TELL ME LIES...

The story goes that if you throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain, with your right hand over your left shoulder, you will ensure a return visit to Rome. Lately, it also goes that if you throw two coins in you meet your future spouse. Three coins and you get to ditch whoever you’re with for a new model. Heaven knows what happens if you drop your whole wallet in there! But seriously, is this really how you want to meet someone? Perhaps not. If you’re already coupled up and feel like putting that love to the test, you need to visit the ancient Bocca della Verità ( 9 ), the “Mouth of Truth”. Resembling a rather large wheel of cheese, this giant, time-worn marble face is believed by experts to represent the god Faunus – whose skills include prophesy, fertility and protecting the harvest. And for this reason it’s supposed to bite the hand of liars. So if you’ve been indulging in any bacchanalian activities lately you’d better hope your other half isn’t stood watching as it has itself an arm sandwich.

AT THE HOTEL…

FROM PALAZZOS TO MONASTERIES

Waking up in a historic city like Rome is an experience like no other – and you’ll find plenty of hotels that are either rubbing shoulders with an ancient monument, or where the ruins themselves are a part of the design.

A mere slingshot from the Forum is FortySeven Hotel ( 10 doubles from €210, www.fortysevenhotel.com). Spacious rooms, clean lines, art-deco touches and original 20th-century Italian artworks contrast perfectly with the two classical temples situated opposite. With just 61 luxury rooms and suites, the service here is first-rate, and design detail is everywhere. A panoramic rooftop terrace (whose restaurant is well worth staying in for), an inner courtyard oasis, and bathrooms with rainforest showers all make this the perfect hideaway. It also manages to pack in a hammam, gym and business area.

If you want to live like La Dolce Vita, the five-star Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese ( 11 doubles from €220, www.sofitel.com) would have done Marcello Rubini proud. Facing both the home of an Italian prince and the English-style Villa Borghese gardens, it has an air of tranquillity despite being just a block from the icon’s old haunts on glitzy Via Vittorio Veneto. Rooms facing the gardens come at no extra cost, and all feature LCD TVs, Bose iPod docking systems and beds with the super-comfy “MyBed” concept. Best of all is the roof terrace, where over an aperitivo cocktail at sunset or candlelit meal you can feast on Rome’s top landmarks and dream of marrying a prince or princess of your own.

Staying with fairy tales, you may want to check into Il Palazzetto ( 12 doubles from €260, www.ilpalazzettoroma.com), a “restaurant with rooms” right on the Spanish Steps. Run by the nearby Hassler hotel, it boasts some of the finest dining in town (see On the Table), an International Wine Academy, and four immaculate, Sleeping Beauty-style boudoirs.

Across town, The Inn at the Roman Forum ( 13 doubles from €220, www.theinnattheromanforum.com) offers a luxury boutique stay with its own 2,000-year-old cryptoporticus thrown in! Or, if you’re on a budget check out friendly Colors Hotel ( 14 doubles from €50, www.colorshotel.com), offering bright, comfortable hotel and hostel accommodation near the Vatican.

For a truly modern ambience, bed down at Radisson Blu es. Hotel ( 15 doubles from €140, www.radissonblu.com) right by the train station on Esquiline Hill. We loved everything from its curvaceous lounging reception chairs to the minimal rooms with gadgets like Nespresso machines and oversized LCD TVs. Waking up to breakfast on the sun-drenched terrace followed by a dip in the rooftop pool was like a little slice of Ibiza. You could quite easily live “the sweet life” here for weeks.

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EDINBURGH, LONDON (STANSTED), PARIS (BEAUVAIS) AND VALENCIA. VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

HEAVENLY SLEEPS

Maybe you’re one of the thousands of pilgrims who travel to Rome to gaze in awe at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel or to see the Pope come out to bless the crowds? Perhaps your pilgrimage has more to do with amazing food or art? Well, whatever the reason, for something a little different you could try staying at one of Rome’s over-100 convents and monastic lodgings. Ranging from small and spartan in the city centre to grand and sprawling complexes, they can be a cheap and authentic alternative. Clearly, many won’t offer a wake-up call or well-stocked mini-bar, but curfews and early breakfasts aside they can be a unique and pleasant experience! Check out www.monasterystays.com for more. One place with quite literally a few bells and whistles is Domus Sessoriana ( 16 doubles from €55, www.domussessoriana. it). More like a three-star hotel with plenty of comforts, it used to be part of the working monastery next door, and has the beautiful Basilica of Santa Croce on its doorstep.

ON THE TABLE…

WHERE TO EAT LIKE AN EMPEROR

There’s a glint in the eye of Neapolitan chef Vincenzo di Tuoro, as he picks up a freshly sharpened knife to pose for our snap – taking care not to scare any diners. If only they knew he used to work for Gordon Ramsay!

We’re on the roof terrace at Il Palazzetto ( 17 www.ilpalazzettoroma.com), and later as we try Vincenzo’s own unique interpretation of Roman cooking we have the most magical view over the Spanish Steps unfurled below us. First up are tender scallops in a light-yet-punchy chilli dressing, followed by fillet of turbot, grilled and resting atop a fine broth of cherry tomatoes, artichokes and clams. We round off with a tiramisu spiced up with zingy peach and saffron ice cream. The wines here are amazing too, which you can also sample at the wine bar and International Wine Academy.

Later that afternoon we’re reminded just how important dessert really is to the Romans, as we enter Giolitti ( 18 www.giolitti.it), a gelato institution and beautiful art-deco café. It’s a riot of flavours and colours, adored in particular by politicians from the nearby Senate.

Another institution in the making is Obikà ( 19 www.obika.it), a Japanese-inspired mozzarella bar. Here, three different types of the freshest handmade buffalo mozzarella can be combined with delicious organic salads, cured meats, antipasti and artisanal pasta. Diners are offered the very finest ingredients while still paying very reasonable prices. You can sit up to the counter to watch the chefs at work, eat at tables amid original Doric columns, or relax outside on the terrace.

Rome’s restaurant scene has some surprises up its sleeve too, like Canova Tadolini ( 20 ), near the Spanish Steps. A former atelier set up by sculptor Antonio Canova in 1818 to help star pupil Adamo Tadolini, today it is not only a fantastic little museum but you can also have coffee or dine next to intricately chiselled nudes! Don’t miss Rome’s backstreet joints either. The red-and-white tablecloths at Da Sergio alle Grotte ( 21 ) set the scene for deliciously down-to-earth gnocchi and local pasta amatriciana (tomato and bacon).

But to dine out in style, head to the Brunello Lounge & Restaurant ( 22 www.baglionihotels.com), at the luxury Regina Baglioni hotel on Via Vittorio Veneto. Decorated in sumptuous black, red and gold, with iconic black-and-white photographs and plush seating, this is the place to come for refined Mediterranean cooking. Starters like scamorza cheese and vegetable pie in tomato sauce were perfectly balanced, as was a super-fresh seafood ragout and saffron fusilli. Allow the sommelier to choose just the right wine and you have all the makings of a perfect meal!

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI), DUSSELDORF (WEEZE), IBIZA AND LIVERPOOL. VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

PIZZA D’ ACTION

Ordering pizza is something of a democratic affair in Rome. The best places to go for a quick bite are those offering “pizza a taglio”. What this means to your average dough-and-cheese fiend is that the pizza is displayed in large trays and sliced off in rectangles, then weighed and priced accordingly. Handy if you don’t want to sit down to a full meal. Check out old-school bakery Forno Campo de’ Fiori ( 23 www.fornocampodefiori. com), in the corner of the Campo de’ Fiori flower and fruit market. Locals flock here for Roman classics like pizza rossa (tomato sauce only), pizza bianca (olive oil and salt only) and pizza patate (with potatoes). Although plain-sounding they are surprisingly good. Another Roman staple is fichi e prosciutto – a summer’s feast of giant figs and cured ham atop your pizza. And for those who prefer their pizzas round and proud, Dar Poeta ( 24 www.darpoeta.com) in Trastevere flips out some of the best wood-fired delights in town.

STIR IT UP FOR AN ICONIC NIGHT

The drink of choice in Rome has to be the mojito, although it’s not unusual to see groups of designer-clad males fearlessly holding aloft their pink caipiroska alla fragola cocktails.

Romans have taken aperitivo hour into their hearts, and all over town a glass of wine, cocktail or prosecco outside a café is the best way to kick off a sultry summer’s evening. After eyeing up Bernini’s sculptures on Piazza Navona, pop around the corner to ivy-clad Caffè della Pace ( 25 www.caffedellapace.it). There’s always a great buzz around this fin de siècle literary haunt, where people still meet to gesture about art and politics on the cobbles.

Opposite the Temple of Hadrian on Piazza di Pietra, hidden gem Salotto 42 ( 26 www.salotto42.it) could not be more inviting. Owned by a globetrotting pair with a flair for design, the “bookbar” offers coffee table reads, sushi and aperitivo snacks, and a hip soundtrack.

A relaxed affair is also on offer at the Sofitel’s seventh-floor restaurant terrace. From La Bellavista Lounge Bar ( 27 www.sofitel.com) you can soak up awesome views of the Spanish Steps and St Peter’s, as a fresh breeze wafts over from the Villa Borghese gardens.

If you really want to pick up the pace, head across the Tiber to bohemian Trastevere. The narrow alleys are clogged with scooters, tables and groups of friends smoking and talking loudly outside bars – it’s hectic and great fun! The aperitivo buffet and mojitos at Freni e Frizioni ( 28 www.freniefrizioni.com) are legendary, drawing crowds of young people onto its own mini-piazza. Down the steps you’ll find Ferrara Ristorante ( 29 www.enotecaferrara.it), a refined yet relaxed corner wine bar that feels more like a friend’s house. For €9 try a quality glass of red and tuck into the stylish finger food lining the bar.

You’re bound to make some friends at football-mad Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa’! ( 30 www.football-pub.com), or “Why the hell did you come here?”. Rather than a slant against the decor, it’s what you’d shout at the losing side, and there’s always a match on the TV. Scores of twenty-somethings also cram in here for the huge frothy tankards of German, Belgian, Italian and Danish beers on tap.

Bar-hop to the coolest, booty-shakingest bar in Trastevere, the comically named Bum Bum di Mel ( 31 ). Run by a group of fun-loving Brazilians who revel in serving up lethal mojitos (by way of accidentally spilling in plenty of extra rum), it plays live samba concerts on the TV and mixes about 45 different types of cocktail.

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BILLUND, EINDHOVEN, SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA AND WROCLAW. VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

IN THE BAG…

A CITY WITH MUCH IN STORE

You can forget the grand boulevards of Paris or megalithic department stores of London, because Rome’s big appeal is in its narrow streets lined with fashionable boutiques.

If you’ve got euros to burn, head west from the Spanish Steps down the glitzy (and crowded) Via Condotti. Brands like Armani, Valentino and Louis Vuitton all have stores here, and a stroll and spot of window-shopping is enough for most. Running north to south slicing through the centre is Via del Corso, which has plenty of high street options too.

If you’ve got a taste for luxury, then pop into concept store Fleur Luxury Living ( 33 www.fleurluxuryliving.it) just off Via Condotti. Inspired by French chic, it boasts everything from flowers and art, to dresses by French and Italian designers, a hair salon and a stylish café.

We couldn’t resist the lure of keyrings and T-shirts at the nearby Ferrari Store ( 34 www.store.ferrari.com), clearly where Fernando Alonso does his shopping. The driver also seems to have parked his F1 car in the shop.

Seek out more iconic items at Mat.Ch ( 35 ), a tiny store that stocks everything Vespa – from headlight-lamps to satchels and T-shirts. It’s on Via Governo Vecchio, a winding lane that snakes beneath Piazza Navona. By far the prettiest shopping street in town, it has a wealth of stylish independent boutiques offering all manner of upmarket labels. di Rienzo. The street, near the Vatican, is also a mix of designer and high street stores like Diesel and MaxMara.

For that quintessentially quirky gift, pop into Ai Monasteri ( 38 www.aimonasteri.it) near Piazza Navona. A sort of monks’ concept store, it began life in 1894 and is run by the Nardi family, who bring in products made by monks all over Italy. A huge range of cosmetics, chocolate, liqueurs, honey and even plant-based pills are on offer. So you’re guaranteed to leave feeling happy and fulfilled – not only in your shopping basket!

To get your market fix, the Porta Portese Flea Market ( 39 ) in Trastevere attracts bargain-hunting hordes for its tables strewn with bronze statues, gilded mirrors, Madonna figurines, old telephones and bric-a-brac – all in the shadow of the 17th-century walls. Test your haggling skills on the battle-hardened store-holders Sundays from 7am to 1pm.

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 32 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING FRANKFURT (HAHN), GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) AND MILAN (BERGAMO). VISIT www.RYANAIR.COM

SOUVENIR CRAZY

It’s simply the law that you can’t leave town without purchasing some sort of ironic present for the folks back home. So what does Rome have to offer the connoisseur of cheesy gifts?

Well, clothing-wise you could go for the Michelangelo-themed tight underpants emblazoned with an Italian flag and a rather large fixture in the middle. Then there’s the Totti football top, pertaining to that most heroic of Italian strikers, who currently captains Serie A club Roma. But giving most capital cities a run for their money in the tacky gift stakes are the likes of a miniature Trevi Fountain, with real bubbling water jets; a Fiat 500 with a snow-dome glued inside the roof, itself containing a miniature Colosseum (how often do you see this winter wonderland, exactly?); and a full-length centurion’s outfit complete with sword and helmet. This is particularly useful if you want to attend any battle re-enactments during your stay, although you should insist on paying with a handful of bronze coins.

1 COFFEE CUPS

Most Romans would baulk at the idea of a cappuccino served after breakfast. So in order to keep up with their espresso intake you need a couple of these. Decorated with images of neo-classical sculpture, they were picked up at café Canova Tadolini (see On the Table). €8 each

2 MINI-VESPA First manufactured in 1946, this design icon is adored all over the world, and was even adapted by the French military to carry an anti-tank gun. To ride the real thing, see Bici & Baci (www.bicibaci.com), who offer rentals and tours on these mean machines. €15

3 NUTTY BISCUITS

The Forno Campo de’ Fiori bulges with pizza, cakes, biscuits and scores of very hungry customers. Fresh from its ovens, these hazelnut and chocolate chip cookies have a light yet crunchy texture, and are gorgeous dipped in your morning cup! €5

4 BOCCA DELLA VERITÀ

Unless you’ve got the space, you wouldn’t want the whole of this sculpture (see On the Street) in your living room – which is why we got this scaled-down version from the church gift shop. Hang it on your kitchen wall and make use of its magical powers. €6.50

5 BEER T-SHIRT

“When I die I want to be fermented,” says the slogan – clearly not intended as a message to the emergency services. The pub where we bought it is called Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa’! (or “What the hell are you doing here?”, see At the Bar). Again, not to be taken literally. €10

WHERE IT’S AT…

MAP & CONTACTS

1 Tiber Island Lungotevere Anguillara
2 Basilica of San Clemente Piazza San Clemente, Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, tel: +39 06 774 0021
3 Pantheon Piazza della Rotonda
4 San Luigi dei Francesi Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, tel: +39 06 688271
5 Borghese Gallery 5 Piazzale del Museo Borghese, tel: +39 06 841 3979
6 MAXXI 4/A Via Guido Reni, tel: +39 06 3996 7350
7 MACRO 54 Via Reggio Emilia, tel: +39 06 671 070 400
8 Auditorium Parco Della Musica Viale Pietro de Coubertin, tel: +39 06 802 411
9 Bocca della Verità Basilica of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Via Santa Maria in Cosmedin
10 FortySeven Hotel 47 Via Petroselli, tel: +39 06 678 7818
11 Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese 47 Via Lombardia, tel: +39 06 478021
12 Il Palazzetto 8 Vicolo del Bottino, tel: +39 06 699 341 000
13 The Inn at the Roman Forum 30 Via degli Ibernesi, tel: +39 06 6919 0970
14Colors Hotel 31 Via Boezio, tel: +39 06 687 4030
15 Radisson Blu es. Hotel 171 Via Filippo Turati, tel: +39 06 444841
16 Domus Sessoriana 10 Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, tel: +39 06 706 1534
17 Il Palazzetto 8 Vicolo del Bottino, tel: +39 06 699 341 000
18 Giolitti 40 Via Uffici del Vicario, tel: +39 06 699 1243
19 Obikà Piazza di Firenze, corner of Via dei Prefetti, tel: +39 06 683 2630
20 Canova Tadolini 150 A/B Via del Babuino, tel: +39 06 3211 0702
21 Da Sergio alle Grotte 27 Vicolo delle Grotte, tel: +39 06 686 4293
22 Brunello Lounge &Restaurant 70/A Via Veneto, tel: +39 06 4890 2867
23 Forno Campo de’ Fiori 22 Campo de’ Fiori/14 Vicolo del Gallo, tel: +39 06 6880 6662
24 Dar Poeta 45 Vicolo del Bologna, tel: +39 06 588 0516
25 Caffè della Pace 3–7 Via della Pace, tel: +39 06 686 1216
26 Salotto 42 42 Piazza di Pietra, tel: +39 06 678 5804
27 La Bellavista Lounge Bar 47Via Lombardia, tel: +39 06 478021
28Freni e Frizioni 4–6 Via del Politeama, tel: +39 06 4549 7499
29 Ferrara Ristorante 41 Piazza Trilussa/1a Via del Moro, tel: +39 06 583 33920
30 Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa’! 25 Via Benedetta, tel: +39 06 9727 5218
31 Bum Bum di Mel 17 Via del Moro / 32 La Maison Castel Sant’Angelo, Lungotevere Castello (summer location, until mid-October)
33 Fleur Luxury Living 46 Via Bocca di Leone, tel: +39 06 6992 3705 / 34 Ferrari Store 147 Via Tomacelli, tel: +39 06 689 2979
35 Mat.Ch 92 Via Governo Vecchio, tel: +39 347 943 5840
36 Dadada 52 Via dei Giubbonari, tel: +39 06 321 3504
37 Franchi 204 Via Cola di Rienzo, tel: +39 06 687 4651
38Ai Monasteri 72 Corso Rinascimento, tel: +39 06 6880 2783 / 39 Porta Portese Flea Market Piazza Porta Portese