15 July 11

Features

Palma On The Ground

A favourite all-round holiday destination, Mallorca has an increasingly cultured capital that brings together some of the island's best bars, restaurants, shops and hotels. Chris Beanland takes a closer look. Photography by Helen Cathcart

GET THE VIBE

AN ENDURING FAVOURITE

MEMORY WORKS IN MYSTERIOUS WAYS. As the plane swoops over the sea on the approach to Palma airport, it’s the memory of a particularly amazing hamburger that catapults me back in time. That burger was cooked by a guy called Miguel in a bar in Cala Millor, and I must have been five when I sank my teeth into it. A few years on from that, I remember walking into a cafe in Alcudia, in the north of the island, phrasebook in hand, and shyly ordering a cola in Spanish for the first time. Exploring alone and talking to people in a different language seemed impossibly exciting. Thinking about it, Mallorca was probably where I caught the travel bug.

If you grew up in northern Europe in the 1970s or 1980s then the chances are that you, too, might have already had some holiday adventures in Mallorca. It was tourism that slowly transformed Mallorca into one of the richest parts of Spain. With the coming of democracy, Spaniards moved to work here from other parts of the country, and the city of Palma became ever cleaner and more modern. Families began to book package tours here because it was cheap, beautiful and offered guaranteed sun. It was and is a wonderful place to bring your children, who’ll be doted on by all and sundry. In Spanish culture, children are venerated. I’ve got stacks of memories of waiters and local women fussing over me and my brother. No wonder we were always desperate to go to Mallorca.

In those days, people used to bypass Palma for the costas; today Palma is the focal point of the island. New bars, excellent restaurants and boutique hotels all lure short break visitors to the capital, and the new metro line looks suitably shiny and futuristic. But it’s still easy to stumble across the island’s historic riches, such as Bellver Castle, the Cathedral and the quaint streets of the Born district.

As ever, on Palma’s fringes you’ll find beautiful beaches, mountains and a hidden side to the island. Take the old train up to Sóller and see yachts stacked up in the harbour and villas dotted around the bay. Now the stars come here: Paris Hilton, Woody Allen, Boris Becker – they’re all fans of Mallorca. Michael Douglas owns a house here. It’s getting a bit jet-set. I wonder if Miguel still cooks those burgers in Cala Millor?

ON THE STREET

THE CULTURE OF KINGS

AS A STRATEGIC ISLAND, MALLORCA HAS always been influenced and scrapped over by outsiders – from Romans to Arabian warriors, the French, the mainland Spanish and today’s seasonal and distinctly northern European invaders. All these linguistic and cultural flavours have been stirred into modern Mallorca’s mix. And the joy of it is that, as you stand in Palma’s cosmopolitan Plaza Mayor, you could almost feel like you were anywhere in the Mediterranean.

But one building is unique: La Seu ( 1 WWW.catedraldemallorca.info). The trademark of Palma, this imposing cathedral built on the old mosque confirms exactly where you are. Gaudí helped with renovation work at the turn of the century, and perhaps his time in Palma inspired some of his efforts on the Sagrada Família in Barcelona. You can go inside to see the splendid stonework in all its finery.

Opposite La Seu is a symbol of royal power, the handsome Palacio Almudaina 2 . It’s the palace that King Juan Carlos I is particularly partial to staying in. If he’s in Madrid though,

you’re allowed to look around at the fancy wares on display.

For a dose of something really ancient, just walk the streets of the old town (east of the Cathedral). Houses line the winding alleyways, washing hangs from windows, and you’ll nary hear a word of Castilian – people round here all communicate in Catalan, or rather the Mallorcan dialect of it.

A brilliant modern/contemporary art museum now graces Palma. The Es Baluard ( 3 WWW.esbaluard.org) opened in 2004, cementing Palma’s reputation as a cultural hotspot. Ceramics by Picasso and paintings by Santiago Rusiñol and Joaquim Mir are just some of the treats contained in this old bastion, which used to be part of Palma’s formidable city walls. Part of the structure is a former water reservoir from the 1640s, called the Aljub. Today, it’s a space for contemporary art installations and exhibitions.

If you have the time, a stroll around the marina and port reminds you that you’re well and truly on an island. It will take more than an hour to walk from one end to the other, but it’s a great experience. If you fancy a bracing stroll out to the end of one of the breakwaters, you should add on another 30 minutes.

The views of ships large and small won’t disappoint, either. Millionaires’ yachts rub shoulders with cruise liners and more prosaic ferries bringing people and produce into the island from Valencia, Barcelona, Ibiza and Menorca. Once upon a time it would have been pirate ships dropping anchor here.

Miró image

Interest in surrealist master Joan Miró is as strong as ever, best shown by the success of the current retrospective at London’s Tate Modern (until 11 September). But to truly understand the man you need to come to Palma – the city the painter and sculptor called home from 1956 until his death in 1983.

At Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró ( 4 WWW.miro.palmademallorca.es) – Pilar was his wife – you can learn about the artist’s life and view 118 of his paintings. They are housed in a gorgeous modernist edifice set in the hills above town, next to the artist’s studio. Stepping inside the latter, it looks like he’s just nipped out for a coffee, with easels and unfinished works strewn around.

Miró’s time on Mallorca was not without incident. A Barcelona-born Catalan speaker and supporter of the Republic, he was ostracised and spied on by Franco’s informants, and could easily have been shot. Instead, the regime chose to let him live in a kind of exile on the island.

AT THE HOTEL

SMALL ISLAND, BIG SELECTION

MILLIONS OF PEOPLE VISIT THE ISLAND each summer, and over half of Mallorcans work in tourism. So if you need a place to stay, you’re unlikely to have to bed down on a sun lounger due to a shortage of rooms. There are hotels absolutely everywhere.

Hostal Ritzi (5 WWW.hostalritzi.com) is a great budget-conscious choice in central Palma. A bunk in a shared dorm starts at just €20, or choose a double room from €55 if you’re willing to share a bathroom.

If you’re cool with doubles starting at €200 then try Puro Hotel (6 WWW.purohotel.com), one of Palma’s contemporary gems. Inspired by Morocco and Miami, so they say, it’s as Ibiza as Morocco gets in our opinion. If you want to spot fashionistas, films stars or DJs in town for the weekend, the chances are they’ll be here. We’ll be thinking about the tapas they serve on the jet-set roof terrace for a while too – mini local cheese fondue with garlic bread.

Palma has gone potty for boutique hotels, as the city itself seizes some of the attention back from the coastal resorts – which were

once the only place people stayed in Mallorca. Hotel Tres (7 WWW.hoteltres.com), in a similar price range to Puro, is our pick of the places to stay in Palma. Its rooftop pool and palm-filled 16th-century courtyard deliver the wow factor, and the ultra-friendly staff make this a truly welcoming hotel, so it’s posh but not pretentious.

If you fancy a bit of pampering, Santa Clara Urban Hotel & Spa (8 doubles from €100, WWW.santaclarahotel.es) down by the Cathedral is the place for it. Just look at those handsome old wooden rafters and the plasterwork of this ancient building. At the spa you can treat yourself to massages, facials, aromatherapy and a host of other treatments.

Yet you’re only getting half the story if you stay in town all the time.

To experience the real Mallorca you must skip to the seaside – this is an island after all. Head 10 minutes east of Palma to Ca’n Pastilla and you’re in proper holiday-land. Hotels have really started to up their game around these parts and this piece of coast is ever more chichi. Try the good value Nàutic Hotel (9 doubles from €68, WWW.nautichotel.eu), a recently refurbished design hotel right by the sea. It’s a short stumble from plush rooftop pool bar to breakwater. Depending on how sporty you are, you can kite-surf or sunbathe on the beach.

If you’re willing to go away from Palma in order to enjoy an isolated retreat, head about 15km away to Torrent Fals (10 WWW.torrentfals.com). This 15th-century former farm has spectacular views of the Tramuntana mountain range and is somewhere you’d remember for a lifetime. You’ll need a hire-car here as a taxi to Palma costs about €40 one way.

Safe and sand

It may not seem very egalitarian, but private beaches are a smash hit in Mallorca.

The Spanish royal family holiday here, Roman Abramovich has anchored his yacht off Mallorca, and even Paris Hilton is a fan of the place. So in short there are always rich and famous folk looking for places to escape to, the beaches that most autograph hunters and paparazzi can’t reach.

Puro has its own private spot, Purobeach (11 WWW.purobeach.com) out at Ca’n Pastilla, for patrons who want a break from city life. It’s free to guests, but non-guests can also pay for the privilege of sitting in the sun here. Indulge yourself with comfy recliners, spa treatments, a pool, tunes courtesy of a DJ, a bar and some stunning views over Palma Bay.

Down at Illetes, to the west of Palma, Virtual Club (12 WWW.virtualclub.es) offers a private beach with cabanas, Moët virtually on tap, more posh sun loungers and table service. There’s a restaurant and nightclub too, if you want to stay on after the sun sets.

ON THE TABLE

A NEW WAVE OF MALLORCAN FOOD

TODAY IN PALMA’S CITY CENTRE YOU’LL find swish urban restaurants, while if you head out towards the sea on either side of town, eateries become gradually more informal, clothing lighter and meals longer. They last long enough in Spain anyway. Lunch is the biggie in Mallorca, for Spaniards who take time over their food, while restaurants tend to fill with foreign visitors for dinner service.

If you want to start with something traditional, there are great little seafood shacks all the way east and west of the city centre along Palma Bay. A meal at Casa Fernando ( 13 WWW.restaurantecasafernando. com) means a plate of local fish such as raons or yonquillo. If you ask nicely they may make you up an arroz brut – literally “dirty rice” – the Mallorcan equivalent of Valencian paella.

Back in town, next door to the contemporary art museum of the same name, Es Baluard ( 14 WWW.esbaluardrestaurant.com) offers sober decor and stomach-satisfying traditional cuisine. Specials include duck stuffed with quince, served with a Mallorcan olive sauce.

Stars of the Mallorcan foodie scene include Marc Fosh, a chef who owns three restaurants in Palma. The latest offering from the British- born culinary whizz is the sleek Misa Braseria + Bar ( 15 WWW.. misabraseria.com), which opened in February and serves Mallorcan/ French fusion dishes, such as delicious beef slow-cooked in hay and mountain herbs. Marc’s Simply Fosh ( 16 WWW.simplyfosh.com) is a more informal affair, ideal for lunches. All Fosh’s restaurants are clean, white-walled places that aim to impress.

Spaniards love a meal with a view. The restaurant El Bungalow 17 is renowned in hip Mallorcan dining circles, and built around a terrace that looks out over the sea. If it’s raining the place closes. As you can imagine, that doesn’t happen often. Up on the old city walls overlooking everything, BLD 18 is the fashionable eatery attached to the city’s modern art museum, Es Baluard. Its terrace filled with futuristic furniture, it’s a hip place to stop for a tuna salad and a glass of island wine whether you’re here for an exhibition or not.

You couldn’t come to Spain without having tapas, and La Bóveda ( 19 WWW.restaurantelaboveda.com) dishes up some of the best. On the menu there’s Iberico ham, patatas bravas, Mahon cheese, mussel stew, chorizo and, of course, prawns. If you want to sit outside then its sister restaurant La Taberna de la Bóveda ( 20 WWW.tabernadelaboveda. com) is the place to come for cheap tapas on a terrace. On August nights the buzz of Palma is palpable here, the San Miguel beer flows and the atmosphere is never anything less than joyous.

Net a royal catch

Mallorcans are in love with fish. And it almost seems wrong not to eat the fresh catch of the day when you’re staying by the sea.

So try a plate of John Dory or langoustines at somewhere like the charmingly old-school Ca’n Jordi ( 21 WWW.. restaurantecanjordi.es) out in Ciudad Jardín, which serves seafood that’s literally fit for a king. King Juan Carlos himself has dined here several times, and his signed photo adorns the wall.

TO THE BAR

CLUBS AND CASTLES

BALEARIC NIGHTS OUT ARE ALL ABOUT pacing. There’s no last orders carnage in these parts, and evenings should be stretched over hours and hours. You can’t really stay up for 48 hours straight like in Ibiza Town – Palma nightlife is a little more subdued and arguably attracts a slightly older crowd than the clubs of the White Isle. But this is still a party town, so don’t forget it.

Start with a sundowner at Harry’s Palma Bar 22 , a sweet little watering hole decked out with leather seats and hidden away in the back streets off Jaume III. The G&Ts are mixed as they should be here.

Next, why not sample a glass of Mallorcan wine? After all, you’re pretty unlikely to find Binissalem on many wine lists outside the island. Team a glass of this impressive red with a little tapas of pa amb oli (bread with olive oil) and Iberico ham. Amano Bar ( 23 WWW.. amano-bar.com) is the place to do this.

Now you’re ready to move up a notch. A stroll around the harbour brings you to El Garito Café ( 24 WWW.garitocafe.com). This trendy little late bar features jazzy DJs like Kruder & Dorfmeister and Rainer Truby. Vodka and Red Bull seems to be the drink of choice down here at the moment; if you drink that you’ll probably be awake for several more hours of sampling the Palma nightlife.

Since you’re down in the Paseo end of town, why not check out Abraxas ( 25 WWW.abraxasmallorca.com)? One of the most jaw- dropping clubs on the island, dancing here feels like partying in a castle. Mallorca’s branch of Pacha used to be based at Abraxas and you can understand why – a thumping sound system, palm trees, dance floors carved out of rock – it’s got the lot. To fit in here you need to drink fizz. You could just knock back bottles of tasty Estrella, of course, but it wouldn’t be the thing.

Indie kids needn’t feel left out amid the Latin rhythms, jazz-house and thud-thud pounding of Euro-dance that make up the soundtrack to a Saturday night out in Palma city centre. Exit Rock Bar ( 26 WWW.. exitrockbar.com) is a friendly little basement bar where they play everything from The Strokes to Johnny Cash, the kids try to dress cooler than one another, and the beer and nachos are cheap.

There’s one more Palma classic you can’t miss: Abaco ( 27 WWW.bar-abaco.com). This one-of-a-kind bar celebrates its 30th anniversary later this year. But age has yet to mellow this gothic madhouse, where rose petals fall from the ceiling and the extravagant decor is the backdrop to a great party – a party involving €15 cocktails and lots of boisterous chatter.

Rock on

Fancy going to a party while you’re in Mallorca? Then consider a trip down the coast to Magaluf.

The people behind the Ibiza Rocks venue and parties have also given the famous clubbing destination a new lease of life with a spin-off festival, Mallorca Rocks (WWW.. ibizarocks.com/ mallorca-rocks).

Each summer, a lip-smacking line-up of music is slowly transforming Magaluf. This year, the Mallorca Rocks Hotel 28 – in the former hotel Trópico, in the town centre – features gigs by Biffy Clyro (19 July), Tinie Tempah (26 July), Dizzee Rascal (29 July), Chase & Status (2 August), Example (9 August), Magnetic Man (30 August) and Madness (13 September). Something for everyone, then.

The idea is to give things a cooler indie spin in a resort that lots of people still think never plays anything but Euro-house (you can still find this too!). Cosmetic improvements to streets and hotels, and stricter licensing laws have also made the place nice and sparkly!

HIT THE SHOPS

FLIP-FLOP INTO TOWN

HISTORICALLY, LARGE SHOPS IN PALMA have remained shuttered on Sundays. But this looks set to change this summer, as Mallorca goes as mad for shopping as anywhere else. The city council is proposing relaxed Sunday trading laws – so watch this space.

For some of the city’s best shopping, just head to the plush Av Jaume III. Squint and you could be in Madrid or Barcelona. Browse the hipster boutiques that proffer vintage- tinged shoes and fashion to Palma’s chic chicas, then pay a visit to that mainstay of any Spanish shopping trip – the solid and always welcoming El Corte Inglés ( 29 WWW.. elcorteingles.es).

With outlets all over Spain, the historic department store feels much like John Lewis or House of Fraser in the UK – and the name itself means “The English Cut”. The Jaume III branch is a huge edifice (what Corte Inglés isn’t?), and upstairs you could lose yourself for days in the clothes or electronics sections.

A great foodhall in the basement and gourmet food shop on the second floor are ideal places to shop for picnic staples, or souvenirs for the foodie in your life. How about some traditional butifarra – blood sausage?

If it’s that famous island delicacy ensaïmada you’re after, look no further than Pasteleria Angel ( 30 WWW.pasteleriaangel.com). These forward-looking fellows have even set up an online store so you can order the circular, sweet flaky pastry treat anywhere in the world.

Vidrios Gordiola ( 31 WWW.gordiola.com) is the place to come and buy authentic glass objects blown on the island at Gordiola’s factory on the road east to Mallorca’s second city, Manacor. If you can’t face the schlep out there, the city centre shop on C/ Victoria is a no-brainer if you want to pick up presents for mum. (See overleaf for what we bought there.)

Another Mallorcan favourite is the good old espadrille. Originally peasant shoes from the Pyrenees, the trend for these slip-ons slid down from Catalonia to the Balearics, and now they’re big favourites here as well. Check some out at Alpargateria La Concepcion ( 32 WWW.alpargaterialaconcepcion.com), a brand that make espadrilles with rope soles, canvas uppers and exposed stitching, boasting pretty retro patterns.

Last but not least, if you’re going head to head with Mallorca’s stylish beach bums you’ll need a swimsuit that shapes up. Kooky independent Miss Zelánea ( 33 WWW.misszelanea.com) sells exclusive bikinis by Agua Bendita, which will have you looking like hot stuff on the sand. There’s a yoga studio hidden upstairs here too.

A shoe in

Whatever the word is for an obsession with shoes – that’s what Mallorca suffers from. The island churns out everything from sandals to brogues, and islanders love to snap them up – though, in recent years, production has shifted east (to China; we’re talking a lot further east than Menorca). One company that still flies the flag for Mallorcan shoe-making is Camper. The company’s products pull off that Balearic trick of looking both smart and casual at the same time. Curves and durability are trademarks, and their thick-soled shoes are just made to be walked in.

Camper has a factory north of Palma in the industrial town of Inca, with a factory store 34 next door. Bargain hunters can make the easy trip up here by train. But if you’re not in the mood for a special visit then there are Camper stores all over town, like the stylish one at 17 San Miguel 35 . And should you need to grab a pair at the last minute before you leave Palma, there’s even a mini-boutique at the airport.

IN THE BAG

STASH THESE IN YOUR SUITCASE

1 / MIRÓ MEMORY GAME
This Miró memory game from the Foundation’s gift shop is 100% cool: you improve your memory at the same time as gazing at some of the surrealist’s greatest works. A perfect after-dinner treat for your cultured friends who don’t get Wii Tennis. €5.75

2 / ZARA TRAINERS
Much as we love it, Camper isn’t the only footwear brand in town. We reckon these summer trainers from Zara will look stylish when you’re at the beach bar. And at this price, you can save on packing and buy extra shoes on arrival. €19.95

3 / TALES FROM MAJORCA BOOK
We found this 1968 paperback in the wonderful second-hand bookshop Ripoll (12 San Miguel), looking for a loving home. It features folk tales translated into English, with a foreword by the poet Robert Graves. €15

4 / BROWN GLASS ORCHID
Well you’ve got to go to Gordiola, haven’t you? The little shop in central Palma has a range of tumblers in tonnes of colours – and trinkets like this that sit firmly on the right side of kitsch. All made up the road in Manacor. €8

5 / PRUNE JAM
Magnificent batches of prune jam are produced in Sóller, decanted into these little jars, finished with a fabric lid then sold at street markets. The perfect way to spread a little bit of Mallorca on your morning toast once you’re back home. €2.60

WHERE IT’S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 La Seu Plaza de la Almoina, tel: +34 902 022445 / 2 Palacio Almudaina C/ Palau Reial, tel: +34 971 214134 / 3 Es Baluard 10 Plaça Porta de Santa Catalina, tel: +34 971 908200 / 4 Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró 29 C/ Saridakis, tel: +34 971 701420 / 5 Hostal Ritzi 6 C/ Apuntadores, tel: +34 971 714610 / 6 Puro Hotel 12 C/ Montenegro, tel: +34 971 425450 / 7 Hotel Tres 3 C/ Apuntadores, tel: +34 971 717333 / 8 Santa Clara Urban Hotel & Spa 16 San Alonso, tel: +34 971 729231 / 9 Nàutic Hotel 24 C/Virgilio, Ca’n Pastilla, tel: +34 971 260162 / 10 Torrent Fals Ctra. Santa María, Sencelles km4.5, tel: +34 971 144584 / 11 Purobeach Cala Estancia, tel: +34 971 744744 / 12 Virtual Club 60 Paseo de Illetas, Calvià, tel: +34 971 703235 / 13 Casa Fernando 27 C/ Trafalgar, Coll d’en Rabassa, tel: +34 971 265417 / 14 Es Baluard 9 Plaça Porta Santa Catalina, tel: +34 971 719609 / 15 Misa Braseria + Bar 1 Can Maçanet, tel: +34 971 595301 / 16 Simply Fosh 7a C/ Missió, tel: +34 971 720114 / 17 El Bungalow 2 C/ Esculls, Coll d’en Rabassa, tel: +34 971 262738 / 18 BLD 10 Plaça Porta Santa Catalina, tel: +34 971 908199 / 19 La Bóveda 3 C/ Botería, tel: +34 971 714863 / 20 La Taberna de la Bóveda 3 Paseo Sagrera, tel: +34 971 720026 / 21 Ca’n Jordi 12 C/ Illa de Xipre, tel: +34 971 491978 / 22 Harry’s Palma Bar 4 Carrer de Sant Gaietà / 23 Amano Bar 70 C/ San Magín, tel: +34 971 732905 / 24 El Garito Café Dàrsena Can Barbarà, tel: +34 971 736912 / 25 Abraxas 42 Gabriel Roca, tel: +34 971 455908 / 26 Exit Rock Bar 60 C/ San Magín, tel: +34 971 287721 / 27 Abaco 1 C/ San Juan, tel: +34 971 714939 / 28 Mallorca Rocks Hotel 5 Carrer de la Cala Blanca, Magaluf, tel: +34 971 131593 / 29 El Corte Inglés Avinguda Jaume III, tel: +34 971 770177 / 30 Pasteleria Angel 45 C/ de Pasqual Ribot, tel: +34 971 285555 / 31 Vidrios Gordiola 2 C/ Victoria, tel: +34 971 711541 / 32 Alpargateria La Concepcion 17 C/ La Concepcion, tel: +34 971 710709 / 33 Miss Zelánea 21 C/ Carme, tel: +34 971 729099 / 34 Camper Factory Shop Polígono Industrial, Inca, tel: +34 971 888233 / 35 Camper 17 San Miguel, tel: +34 971 228588