Oslo on the cheap

A weekend in the Norwegian capital needn’t break the bank, so don’t miss out on one of Europe’s most diverse cities, says Dominique Afacan

Oslo is perfect mini-breaking territory. Alongside majestic fjords and mountains there’s a compact and spotless city centre filled with hip locals, fantastic modern architecture, and a booming night scene. Even better, despite its label as the world’s most expensive city, a budget trip here is possible – you just need to plan carefully.

Such stunning natural scenery means your first stop should involve getting out and exploring. First off, buy an Oslo Pass, which gives you free travel on all public transport. Next, ditch the official boat trips and instead get on ferry 93 from Vippetangen, the port just south of the city centre. The ferry stops at six of the 40 islands in Oslo’s fjord, including tiny Lindoya, dotted with colourful wooden summer houses that locals escape to at weekends.

Back in the city there are more modern architectural must-sees, notably the opera house – a gleaming, glacial icon that opened last April. The roof is made up of two huge marble and granite slopes, and is designed so visitors can walk all over it – the perfect way for first-timers to get their bearings over the city and fjord.

Traditionalists may prefer to wander along the city’s main drag, Karl Johans Street, to admire the Norwegian Parliament, the University and Akerhus Castle looming large at the end. Don’t get distracted by all the shops along this stretch. For more affordable and much trendier outlets, Grünerlokka is your answer. A quick trip on the tram (free with the Oslo Pass) gets you there in a jiffy. Formerly a run-down pocket of town, Grünerlokka is now a top hipster hangout, with quirky boutiques and cafés lining the streets.

To bag a bargain your best bet is Fretex, a second-hand store run by the Salvation Army. It displays an enormous array of weird and wonderful finds, and staff are pretty eccentric, too. Sjarm is another good find, a super-girly affair filled with trinkets and treasure to suit all wallets. For lunch, avoid the many pavement cafés and nip into Godt Brod, an organic bakery (several locations across the city), which makes sandwiches to order at sensible prices. Plus you can eat inside and warm up next to its huge oven.

You’ll need to be toasty for your next stop – head east to 32-hectare Vigeland Park. In summer it’s heaving with barbecue parties and Frisbeethrowers, but right now – with the tourist hordes gone – it’s one of the city’s top free treasures. Gaze at over 200 sculptures designed by Gustav Vigeland, full-size nudes in intriguing poses that will inevitably end up in your holiday snaps.

You’ll be back east come evening to hit Gronland, home to a diverse immigrant population and filled with bars and restaurants that won’t break the bank. It’s a pretty raw scene, the crowd are super trendy and the music is progressive and punk.

But don’t head out until late, as vorspiel comes first. Meaning “pre-party” not “foreplay” as it translates to in German, it involves drinking as much of your own alcohol as possible before leaving the house and paying for the stuff. Try some Vikingsfjord vodka or Ringnes beer.

In Gronland, wolf down a curry at Punjab Tandoori, then head on to Mekaniske Verksted, where exposed brickwork, quirky artwork and candles surround the city’s cool crowd. Gloria Flames is another popular haunt, a rock-androll bar with live bands and a huge terrace for shivering smokers. If you really want to fit in, buy a tin of snus at the bar. This potent tobacco is stuffed in a mini-teabag and placed in your mouth between your upper lip and gum, allowing the nicotine to seep into your system. Admittedly, it’s not for everyone, but locals wholeheartedly embraced snus after the smoking ban came in.

For the super-energetic, another city drinking custom is “nachspiel” – house parties to hit when the clubs close and you still want more booze. One of these should guarantee you a decent enough hangover to ensure you want to do as little as possible the next day.

But there are still some museums to tick off your list. The National Gallery is free with the Oslo Pass and houses a huge collection of Norwegian art, including many by Edvard Munch. Other cultural freebies include cuttingedge modern art at the Astrup Fearnley Museum, and famous polar ship the Fram. Time left? Why not walk up to Ekeberg, where Munch found inspiration for The Scream. Breathe the air and enjoy the scenery. And to spend your last few kroner? Splash out on a cocktail at Ekebergrestauranten, a newly refurbished bar and restaurant looking out over the fjord, all the while planning your next trip. Who says you can’t do Oslo on the cheap!

Not feeling the crunch?
Suggestions for big spenders
EAT: Flukt
Set in a former shipyard, Flukt boasts the city’s first self-service wine-tasting machine and has a big open kitchen so you can see your food – anything from Italian to typically local – being whipped up.
1 Olav Selvaags Plass, Tel: +47 2283 9290, www.spisestedetflukt.no

DRINK: Posthallen
This huge old post office was recently turned into one of the city’s coolest restaurants. A hot cocktail list, a DJ and Norwegian food with a modern twist make it the choice of the city’s A-list.
8 Prinsensgate, Tel: +47 2241 1730, www.posthallenrestaurant.no

STAY: Grand Hotel
Oslo’s most iconic hotel, the Grand was an old favourite of Edvard Munch and Poul Ipsen. It has just opened a ladies’ floor, where everything from the bathroom goodies to artwork in corridors has been designed with the lady in mind.
31 Karl Johans gate, Tel: +47 2321 2000, www.grand.no