Once upon a time

The storytellers of the Djemaa el Fna square in Marrakesh are a dying breed. Italian photojournalist Stefano Torrione travels to meet them

They are the last of a slowly dying breed, the storytellers – imayazen or halaquis in Arabic – of the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakesh. Since the city was founded in the 11th century they have plied their trade in this triangular square at the entrance of the medina. Alongside fortune-tellers, poets, snake-charmers, clowns, Berber musicians and Gnaoua dancers, they entertain, teach and charm their audience using speech and gesture to bring history and legend to life. Yet despite the square and its performers having been recognised by Unesco as a site of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2001, there are only seven storytellers left, while in the 1970s there were 18.

For the last decade Italian photojournalist Stefano Torrione has spent many months befriending and photographing the remaining bards, some of whom are illiterate, but who have travelled the length and breadth of he Berber territories of Morocco collecting and renewing the oral histories, tales and expressions of the people. These are his images, and this is their tale.

The storytellers recite classic poems and ancient legends from the ever-popular One Thousand and One Nights, or tales of famed local heroes like Xeha, Aicha and Kandixa – using improvisation, comic impressions and burlesque-style performance to reach their audience. But few young Moroccans are taking up the mantle, and of the seven bards only Abderrahim (son of Ben Jakkane El Ayachi) is learning his father’s art. But even he may not continue the tradition, as the younger generation’s lack of interest combined with a shift towards shows that all tourists can understand, all contributes to the decline.

Catch the magic of the last storytellers of Marrakesh – book a Ryanair flight and plan your trip today, before they say “Kan ya ma kan” (“Once upon a time”) for the last time.

TRIBAL GATHERING
The seven remaining imayazen of Djemaa el Fna at Café de Madanie in Derb Dabachi, near the square. From le : Mohamed Errguibi Sghir, Mohamed El Jabri, Mohamed Oujbayr, Ahmed Bouchama, Zouhir El Makkouri, Mohamed Bariz and Ben Jakkane El Ayachi.

FACE VALUE
Storyteller Ben Jakkane El Ayachi performs at his friend Zouhir El Makkouri’s home.

CIRCLE OF LIFE
The late Berber storyteller Timoumi Mbarek, also known as “the Philosopher of the Seven Colours”, explains his special cosmic theory in a halqa (circle of people gathering round an artist) in the famous Djemaa el Fnasquare.

LIGHT SHOW
Mohamed Bariz holds up a candle at Café de Madanie. The storytellers love to meet here and share traditional dishes like couscous and tea.

SMOKE SCREEN
Gnaoua musicians perform to a halqa in the square, the smoke from the open-air restaurants and barbecues rising in the background..

LOST IN THE MAZE
Storyteller Ahmed Bouchama goes down the stairs at Café Agueram, near Djemaa el Fna, where he sometimes spends the night.

FAMILY BUSINESS
Apprentice Abderrahim, Ben Jakkane El Ayachi’s son, performs at Café de Madanie in front of the other storytellers.

DRESS CODE
The storyteller Mohamed Oujbayr performs in his traditional djellaba (robe) in front of Café de France in Djemaa el Fna.

THIRST FOR STORIES
Storyteller Ahmed Bouchama holds out his glass of tea at Café Agueram. Like the other imayazen he sometimes also spends the night in the café.

NEW CHAPTER
An old man crosses Djemaa el Fna at daybreak, long a er the night’s performances have ended.