15 February 11

On The Ground: Tallinn

In 2011 the capital of Estonia is also the European Capital of Culture. No better time for a visit then! We tell you what to do and where to go in this historic Baltic city.

Estonia’s capital becomes a European Capital of Culture this year, and with Ryanair’s new flights to the city there’s never been a better time to visit.

Words by Ed Chamberlin. Photography by James Bedford

GET THE VIBE

A STELLAR YEAR FOR THE CAPITAL

IT’S A BIT OF A CLICHÉ TO DESCRIBE A place as having “charm”, but if there’s one quality that Tallinn possesses above other cities, it’s this. To see what I mean, stand on Raekoja Plats in the old town: the gothic town hall in front of you, the cobbled streets snaking away in all directions down intriguing alleys, and the smiling Tallinners in medieval costume beckoning you into the famous Olde Hansa restaurant. It’s hard not to feel intoxicated. The effect is only increased by the snow that adorns the city prettily at this time of year.

Add to this brightly coloured, beautifully preserved medieval architecture, watched over by the imposing Toompea Castle, Toompea Palace and their fortifications, and you have a dreamy recipe for a Unesco World Heritage Site, which the old town has been since 1997. Contributing further spice to the mix is Tallinn’s (and Estonia’s) varied history and identity. For years an important Hanseatic town, it has been a port of call for ships carrying exotic items and ideas from far and wide since the 13th century.

In that century, it was under Danish rule, and the name itself is thought to mean “Danish Castle”, “Taani-Linn”. Two centuries later it was in the hands of the Swedes, while in modern history it has been part of both the Russian Empire – during which the beautiful Kadriorg Palace was built – and the Soviet Empire, leaving an indelible Russian stamp on the country. When Moscow hosted the 1980 Olympics, Pirita – just to the north of Kadriorg Palace – was chosen as the location for the yachting events, and the area underwent extensive construction. Today, this verdant, beachy district remains one of Tallinn’s most prestigious areas, a universe away from the stone and bustle of the old town. In summer, it attracts 30,000 people to the beach each day.

However, Estonia’s culture remains distinct from those of the countries that surround it. The Estonian language is part of the Finno- Ugric language family, related to Finnish and Hungarian rather than the Indo-European languages spoken in the rest of Europe. This has inspired a strong sense of linguistic identity, which reveals itself in the literature of A H Tammsaare and Eduard Vilde (both of whom have museums dedicated to them in the city), as well as poetry such as the epic Kalevipoeg.

While embracing its past, Estonia is also passionate about the future. It is listed frequently by reports as having the world’s most extensive internet usage and penetration. In 2005, Estonians became the first people in the world to vote online in local elections, and internet telephony service Skype was developed in Estonia. If you have a smartphone or other portable device, you’ll discover that almost everywhere you go there’s free wi-fi, allowing you access to information (even an electronic version of this article) while on the move.

So why visit now? Well, this year the city has been honoured (some may say overdue) with the status of European Capital of Culture, meaning that aside from its exquisite charm, there will be a packed schedule of music, theatre, art and children’s entertainment going on at whichever time you arrive. Just check www.tallinn2011.ee for the precise line-up of events. This is without a doubt the biggest cultural event ever to have taken place in Estonia – so if you have been contemplating a trip to Tallinn but haven’t made it yet, your wait has been worth it because there’s never been a better time to come.

ON THE STREET

GET OUT AND SEE THIS CAPITAL OF CULTURE

ALTHOUGH TALLINN, AND ESTONIA IN general, has a deep and fascinating history, you can’t hit the streets this year without noticing the buzz of the present. Tallinn in 2011 has been honoured with the title of European Capital of Culture, and is marking the occasion with a schedule that’s simply jam-packed with things to do and see, whatever your age or taste.

For instance, Tallinn Music Week (24–26 March, www.tallinnmusicweek.ee) hosts up- and-coming bands in venues around the city, including the talented, Björk-ish Iiris (who won the Skype “Go Change the World” award at last year’s event), and bonkers electro-dance- punkers Epordwerk. Classical music also gets an airing, courtesy of one of the country’s most prominent composers, Erkki-Sven Tüür, who will be premiering a new work at the Estonia Concert Hall ( 1 www.concert.ee) on 3 March.

Tallinn’s science museum, AHHAA ( 2 www.ahhaa.ee), is hosting an exhibition that you’ll never see: Dialogue in the Dark creates the experience of being blind, in a pitch-black environment as you use sound, touch and smell to guide you. For more information on what’s on while you’re in Tallinn, visit www.tallinn2011.ee.

If you’re visiting Tallinn for the first time, you’ll want to get under its skin. Brush up on your history at the Linnamuuseum ( 3 www. linnamuuseum.ee). The building itself dates back to the 14th century, and ushers the visitor through time up until the 20th century. It shows you samples of medieval homesteads and lifestyle, explains Tallinn’s historical role in the Hanseatic League with an excellent nautical exhibition, and gives a glimpse of what life was like under Soviet rule.

An interesting little diversion on the painfully thin Raekoja street is the Photo Museum ( 4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum). Housed in the former town prison, it shows camera technology going back as far as 1840, with the highlight being the world’s first spy camera from 1936 designed by the wonderfully named Walter Zapp.

Escape the city centre for a while with a stroll around the magnificent Kadriorg Park, where you’ll find the impressive Kadriorg Palace ( 5 www.ekm.ee). Tsar Peter the Great set this place up as a summer residence for himself and his second wife Catherine I. Today, it stands as an ornate arm of the Art Museum of Estonia, displaying 16th to 18th-century works by Dutch, German, Italian and Russian masters. Also in Kadriorg Park are Kumu ( 6 www.ekm.ee) modern art museum, exhibiting Estonian art from the second half of the 20th century, and for children the Miia-Milla-Manda Museum ( 7 www.linnamuuseum.ee/ miiamillamanda), which combines colourful fun with education.

House of pain

One of the perennial attractions in Tallinn is Kiek in de Kök ( 8 www.linnamuuseum. ee/kok), a charismatic ancient tower whose name means “peek into the kitchen” in old German, and refers to how the occupants would peer into the living quarters of the working classes. Today, both a gallery for photo exhibitions and museum of medieval weaponry, it makes a thoroughly worthwhile stop. However, be sure to see the adjoining Bastion Tunnels. Cutting a fascinating and eerie sweep through history, no one really knows how far these tunnels go or how many there are. The tour takes you back in time through eras when they were used by homeless people, as hideouts for Soviet dissidents, and back further still to when they were used to secretly move soldiers and ammunition around. In the other direction, the tunnels forge a path towards the future, transporting you in a snazzy train to an exhibition of hypothetical findings by archaeologists from the year 2219!

AT THE HOTEL

SAUNAS, STONE WORK AND SUPERB VIEWS

BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED AT ITS CENTRE, Tallinn’s medieval old town is surrounded by a busily modern cityscape. In the latter you’ll find many big-name hotels all worth staying in, while in the former you’ll find some lovely original hotels to bed down in as well as the easiest access to Tallinn’s attractions and shops.

It takes taste and tact for a hotel to blend in among the beautiful buildings of the old town, and Schlössle Hotel ( 9 doubles from €154, www.schloesslehotel.com) has achieved this with remarkable aplomb. The city’s first five- star when it opened in 1994, Schlössle looks like a country mansion – from the beautifully preserved stone walls and cosy lounge with open fire to the 23 regal rooms. These range from the bright and airy Superiors to the 90m2

Schlössle Suite, which has hosted the likes of Prince Charles, Sting and Lenny Kravitz, and boasts its own private sauna.

Merchant’s House Hotel ( 10 doubles from €80, www.merchantshousehotel.com), just off Raekoja Plats, provides similarly atmospheric comfort. After checking in at the part-medieval/

part-modern lobby, with its cool, blue Ice Bar, you are ushered through into a courtyard with the 37 rooms organised around it like a jumble of charming houses. The rooms themselves – some of which offer private saunas – feature modern amenities encased in a stone and wood-beam shell that gives them a venerable air of antiquity.

Staying central, Hotel Telegraaf ( 11 doubles from €140, www. telegraafhotel.com) follows a telecommunications theme – appropriate in a city that boasts one of the highest levels of internet penetration in the world. Beyond the museum-like lobby with its old devices on display, rooms are suitably ornate, while you also get the chance to stay in suites with names like Alexander Graham Bell and Samuel Morse.

Just a whisker outside the old town, Von Stackelberg ( 12 doubles from €60, www.vonstackelberghotel.com) lays on computers and internet in every room, while exposed brick walls and warm lights generate a comforting atmosphere. Ratchet up the relaxation with the “ZEN” rooms’ bamboo wallpaper, wooden blinds and Jacuzzis. The hotel is part of the Uniquestay group, which also runs the nearby City Hotel Tallinn ( 13 doubles from €25, www.uniquecityhotel.com), a great-value alternative.

For a touch of modernity, the 24-storey Radisson Blu ( 14 doubles from €82, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn) boasts wonderful sea or city views from its 280 well-appointed rooms. Or you could bed down at the stylish and comfortable Park Inn ( 15 doubles from €52, www. parkinn.com/hotel-centraltallinn). Both are within 10 minutes’ walk of the old town gates, making them convenient choices for your stay.

Hostel gospel

If your needs are more modest, Tallinn has four excellent, central hostels run by the group Tallinn Backpackers ( 16 dorms from €12 per person, private rooms from €22 per person, www. tallinnbackpackers. com). The namesake hostel is the “party” place that bills itself as “Great for single (minded) travellers”. Enforcing relaxation with a “shoes off” policy, as well as free sauna and spa, it invites you to unwind in the common room watching TV, before joining in the evening pub crawl – sorry, I mean walking tour – at 11pm each night. More subdued is The Monk’s Bunk, which was renovated last summer and offers quiet bunks and dorms, while still inviting you along to join the Tallinn Backpackers lot for the crawl.

Viru Backpackers is quieter still, offering mainly private rooms, as well as two triples and one quad. Finally, the Tallinn Old Town Hostel accommodates up to 75 people, and is particularly suitable for large groups, as well as Erasmus students looking for longer stays.

ON THE TABLE

BEAR, CAVIAR AND PIZZA ON THE MENU

EATING OUT CAN BE CATEGORISED QUITE neatly into Estonian, Russian and international cuisine, which means the visitor can get a taste of local flavours, while also having access to more familiar fare.

The most prominent restaurant in the city is Olde Hansa ( 17 www.oldehansa.ee). Travellers with a cynical streak may take one look at it and think “tourist trap”. However, this is not only one of the best medieval restaurants in Estonia, but in the world. Cheerful young Estonians in period dress call out to you from a wooden stall to guide you in, the only lights are from candles and every stitch has been faithfully modelled on Ye Olde Times – from the charming pipe band discreetly playing away, to the evocative old paintings on the wall. The food is a veritable feast: in fact the menu lists a number of feasts, such as the “Grand Feast to the Honour of Rewalias Town Council Guests”, where guests can get their teeth around marinated bear and elk sausages washed down with dark honey beer from a fat clay jug.

Bringing you into the present day, Roman Zaštšerinski’s helming of the kitchen at Restaurant Ö ( 18 www.restoran-o.ee) saw it listed as Best Restaurant in Estonia in 2009 (although now in second place behind Alexander on Muhu island). Its modernised approach to game includes such dishes as venison with beetroot orzotto, and rabbit with pear strudel. Couched in stylish surroundings that are somehow sleek and industrial – a huge metal beam runs from one side to the other – this is an essential port of call for your stomach, as is the adjoining Spirit Café (where the metal beam continues), a hunting lodge-style café.

For a taste of what can be done to Estonian traditions in a modern kitchen visit Vertigo ( 19 www.vertigo.ee), run by TV chef Imre Kose. Appropriately located on the ninth floor of a stylish tower block, visitors can enjoy some lovely views over the modern city, if they can take their eyes of the stunning food. Smoked oysters with wild cherry vinaigrette, pan-fried eel fillet, and ostrich with caramelised pork belly in a beetroot- truffle jus are just some of the unexpected combinations.

As for international food, Tallinn offers all you’d expect from a modern capital city, with a particular abundance of Italian places. Particularly worthwhile is Chedi ( 20 www.chedi.ee). Opened in cooperation with Alan Yau, of London’s Hakkasan, Chedi is as stylish as it is delicious, with its cosily dark and red tones, Buddha head statues and stone walls. Chef Chong Chee Loong delicately constructs pan-Asian delights such as dim sum of silver cod, prawns and courgette to start, and Mongolian stir-fry venison as a main, all presented with love and attention to detail.

From Russia with grub

Tallinn has a strong historical connection to Russia, so it’s not surprising to find a number of restaurants doing the Russian thang. At the cheaper end of the scale is Klafira ( 21 www.klafira.ee) on Vene street (which means “Russian”), where you have your blinis, gravlax and caviar served to you by friendly folk in traditional costume. Troika ( 22 www. troika.ee), tucked at the bottom of a long corridor on Raekoja Plats, is the mid-range option, and probably the most popular. Cosily dark and heaving with Russian paraphernalia, you can really get into the spirit here with the “Officers’ Feast”, which takes you through pickled herring, beef tongue and wild boar, with unlimited wine! But for the full monty, pay a visit to the excellent Hotel Telegraaf (see 11 ) and Tchaikovsky.

Like Ö a former “Best Restaurant in Estonia”, it models itself on 18th- century Russian Empire, with sliver plate holders, and massive banks of books on bookshelves. The food is Russian with a French twist.

TO THE BAR

BEATS, BEERS AND BOARD GAMES

EVEN WITH A CHILL IN THE AIR, THE NIGHTS in Tallinn (especially on weekends) promise to keep pulsating as long as you can keep your eyes open. Once you’ve filled up on dinner, start the night off slowly and gather speed.

The favoured spot for Tallinn’s creatives and trendies is Noku ( 23 ) on Pikk, where things move at a manageable pace. Too hip to announce itself brazenly with a big sign, keep your eye out for the jaunty blue and red door, which leads upstairs to a chilled sofa-decked den of chatter, with warm lighting, board games and plenty of cool points.

Looking for cocktails? Then make your way to Kaheksa Lounge & Bar ( 24 www.lounge8. ee), where you can rub shoulders with smartly dressed high-lifers. Rotating art exhibitions, funky nibbles and occasional fashion shows keep things interesting, while the frozen cocktails, chic martinis and non-alcoholic concoctions keep the bar section buzzing.

The Butterfly Lounge ( 25 www.kokteilibaar. ee) ups the cocktail ante even further – not surprising since it was established by the award-winning former cocktail master of Kaheksa, Heinar Õispuu, and another award-winner, Kristo Tomingas. Sit around on bubblegum- coloured chairs and agonise over the seemingly endless array of potions that can be conjured up for you. Across the road, Museum ( 26 www. museum.ee) has a heavy focus on Champagne, luxury leather chairs and those always-cool exposed brick walls. The only worry you may have here is whether or not you are smartly dressed enough.

If the clock strikes 12 and you’re still full of energy, move yourself to a nightclub such as the nearby BonBon ( 27 www.bonbon.ee), which does require you to be smartly dressed – so that you don’t clash with the ostentatious Louis-XIV-ish decor. Or you could try the perennially popular Club Hollywood ( 28 www.clubhollywood.ee), which attracts a mixture of tourists and young locals through its impressive stone columns to dance wildly to house and techno. Knock back a few shots, or just hang out in the Clockwork Orange-esque smoking section.

For more hardened clubbers, the smaller Club Privé ( 29 www. clubprive.ee) blasts out a relentless barrage of experimental beats. International DJs like Grooverider, Jazzanova and Susumu Yokota join big-name local spinners like Rulers of the Deep and Dave Storm. Mr Storm launched his own club, Partei ( 30 www.parteiklubi.ee), on 11 February, and administers a shot of adrenalin to Friday and Saturday nights with the cream of Estonian talent until 4am or later.

If you’re not ready for bed when the beats stop, I suggest you lay off the Red Bull.

Pub talk

Taking prominent place alongside the bars and clubs frequented by the locals, are a popular handful of pubs that mainly attract visitors. No matter how much you want to “keep it real”, chances are you’ll pop into Irish bar Molly Malone’s ( 31 www.mollymalones. ee). Its popularity stems from the astonishingly friendly staff and patrons. A full Irish breakfast is served all day, while the endearingly scatty live bands keep the atmosphere energetic. Not far from Molly’s is Clayhills ( 32 www. clayhills.ee), the Baltics’ first gastropub, which has a more restaurant-y feel, but finds space for some live jazz, salsa and rock on Friday and Saturday nights. But for a pub with a more local vibe, Valli Baar ( 33 ) is a real people’s pub with live sing-a-long music and slurred conversations. It’s so resistant to modernisation that the Tallinn Cultural Heritage Department has made it a protected site! Be sure to knock back their eye- watering millimallikas (“jellyfish”): a shot of tequila, sambuca and Tabasco sauce.

IN THE BAG

NATTY TRINKETS, MARZIPAN AND TOP SHOPS

ON 1 JANUARY THIS YEAR, THE ESTONIAN population awoke from their New Year’s celebrations to the euro, their coins adorned with a silhouette of the country surrounded by the 12 stars of the EU. Without the need to exchange currencies (if you’re a euro-user, anyway), shopping in Tallinn is easier than ever.

Right in the centre of town, Olde Hansa’s Medieval Shoppe (see 17 www.krambude. com) truly deserves its extra “-pe”, with its gorgeous selection of olde worlde items. From the ostentatious (pixie shoes with curled up toes; swords) to the strictly utilitarian (combs, glasses and beer mugs), these aren’t just gimmicks to give away as gifts but are lovingly and expertly put together based on known designs from medieval times.

While we hope you are in full health, you should nevertheless drop by Raeapteek ( 34 ) on Raekoja Plats. The oldest continuously operating pharmacy in Europe, it doled out remedies like burnt hedgehog powder and mummy juice to hapless invalids back in 1415, and deals in more effective remedies today.

For retail therapy of a more contemporary nature, the city has a number of shopping centres, the main ones being Viru Keskus ( 35 www.virukeskus.com), where you can get your hands on fashion, music, chocolates and handicrafts; the architecturally innovative Rotermann Centre ( 36 www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee); and Finnish giant Stockmann ( 37 www.stockmann.ee), which is suitably enormous.

As in many Hanseatic towns, amber is abundant in Tallinn, especially at souvenir shops near Raekoja Plats. This tree-derived substance has been traded for its beauty and supposed medicinal properties since Neolithic times, but is now fashioned primarily into jewellery. The easiest way to ensure that you are getting the real McCoy is to rub it: real amber becomes electrostatically charged and will pick up lint.

Another pretty local substance (this time edible) is marzipan, which it’s claimed was invented in the city – although others make the claim too. Nevertheless, “Mart’s Bread” is well loved here, and at Kalev Marzipan Room ( 38 www.kalev.eu) visitors can watch “marzip-artisans” carefully sculpt and paint their cute creations before popping them on the counter to be fast-tracked into people’s mouths. Tallinn’s picturesque St Catherine’s Passage is a popular congregating point for local artists and craftsmen, who divert the attention of passers-by from this ancient and charming cobbled street with their beautiful aesthetic creations.

For more local goods, try the delightfully surreal art and T-shirts at Navitrolla ( 39 www.navitrolla.ee), or the quirky fashion, trinkets and home decor at Nu Nordik ( 40 www.nunordik.ee). Both are in the city centre.

Card culture

Among the many things that should be on your shopping list, the most useful item would have to be the TallinnCard (www.tallinncard.ee). Giving you access to travel on buses and trams, as well as inclusive or discounted access to the city’s main attractions and museums, these credit card-sized golden tickets are like a key to unlock the city. Cards come in six-, 24-, 48- and 72-hour variations, at a cost of €12, €24, €32 and €40 respectively. Plan a day of comprehensive sightseeing by looking at the routes of the various hop-on, hop-off bus tours, which let you sight-see your way around everything the city has to offer. From May, the child-friendly Toomas the Train (not Tank Engine!) will also be departing from Kullassepa Street from noon until 5pm on a 20-minute trip – free with the card. Also take one of the day- or night-time cruises to the Harry-Potterly- named island of Terra Feminarum. Cards are on sale in hotel lobbies and tourist offices in town, and are well worth it.

PHOTOGRAPHY: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK

1 / WOOLLY HAT

Brr! It can get a little cold outside this time of year, and you may fi nd yourself enviously eying up the cosy- looking woollies worn by the more weather-ready locals. Join them in their comfort by buying an exceedingly tall woolly hat, like this one whose peak wraps around your neck like a scarf!
€20

2 / KALEV CHOCOLATES

Bring back some chocolates and share a taste of Estonia with your friends. For 200 years, Kalev has been producing confectionery, including marzipan, cakes and tarts. Featuring a picturesque view over the old town, this box makes a lovely gift. WWW.KALEV.EE
€3

3 / VANA TALLINN

Estonia’s personal brand of poison, Vana Tallinn, is a sweet, rum-like liqueur that hovers around 50% alcohol content. When mixed with Champagne the resulting cocktail is called the “Hammer & Sickle”, since it knocks you on the head and cuts off your feet! WWW.VANATALLINN.EU
€10

4 / ARVO PÄRT CD

Estonia’s most prominent and important modern composer, Arvo Pärt’s elegant, minimalist sacred music is performed all over the world. An artist well worth discovering while in Tallinn, this CD of his work Miserere performed by The Hilliard Ensemble is particularly haunting.
€20

5 / BEER MUG

Among the many enticing items available at Olde Hansa are these wonderfully earthy beer mugs, based on designs from 16th-century Germany. The fat body combined with a smaller opening at the top helps it retain the heat when drinking hot beer or wine. WWW.KRAMBUDE.COM
€24.50

WHERE IT’S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

MAP ILLUSTRATION: MATT JOHNSTONE / JELLY ILLUSTRATION

1 Estonia Concert Hall 4 Estonia Puiestee, tel: +372 614 7760 /

2 AHHAA 9 Vabaduse Valjak, tel: +372 666 0066 /

3 Linnamuuseum 17 Vene, tel: +372 615 5183 /

4 Photo Museum 4/6 Raekoja, tel: +372 644 8767 /

5 Kadriorg Palace 37 Weizenbergi / 1 Valge, tel: +372 606 6400 /

6 Kumu 34 Weizenbergi / 1 Valge, tel: +372 602 6000 /

7 Miia-Milla-Manda Museum 21c L. Koidula, tel: +372 601 7057 /

8 Kiek in de Kök 2 Komandandi, tel: +372 644 6686 /

9 Schlössle Hotel 13/15 Puhavaimu, tel: +372 699 7700 /

10 Merchant’s House Hotel 4/6 Dunkri, tel: +372 697 7500 /

11 Hotel Telegraaf 9 Vene, tel: +372 600 0600 /

12 Von Stackelberg 23 Toompuiestee, tel: +372 660 0700 /

13 City Hotel Tallinn 3 Paldsiki Road, tel: +372 660 0700 /

14 Radisson Blu 3 Ravala Puiestee, tel: +372 682 3000 /

15 Park Inn 7c Narva Mnt, tel: +372 633 9800 /

16 Tallinn Backpackers 11 Olevimagi, tel: +372 644 0298 /

17 Olde Hansa 1 Vana Turg, tel: +372 627 9020 /

18 Restaurant Ö 6e Mere Puiestee, tel: +372 661 6150 /

19 Vertigo 4 Ravala Puiestee, tel: +372 666 3456 /

20 Chedi 1 Sulevimagi, tel: +372 646 1676 /

21 Klafira 4 Vene, tel: +372 5837 7333 /

22 Troika 15 Raekoja Plats, tel: +372 627 6245 /

23 Noku 5 Pikk, tel: +372 631 3928 /

24 Kaheksa Lounge & Bar 8 Vana Posti, tel: +372 631 4812 /

25 Butterfly Lounge 13 Vana Viru / 4 Aia, tel: +372 5690 3703 /

26 Museum 14 Vana Viru, tel: +372 646 0901 /

27 BonBon 6e Mere Puiestee, tel: +372 661 6080 /

28 Club Hollywood 8 Vana Posti, tel: +372 627 4770 /

29 Club Privé 6 Harju, tel: +372 631 0545 /

30 Partei 8 Ravala /

31 Molly Malone’s 2 Mundi, tel: +372 631 3016 /

32 Clayhills 13 Pikk, tel: +372 641 9312 /

33 Valli Baar 14 Muurivahe, tel: +372 641 8379 /

34 Raeapteek 11 Raekoja Plats /

35 Viru Keskus Viru Valjak, tel: +372 610 1444 /

36 Rotermann Centre 5 Rotermanni / 10 Roseni, tel: +372 626 4200 /

37 Stockmann 53 Liivalaia, tel: +372 633 9539 /

38 Kalev Marzipan Room 16 Pikk, tel: +372 646 4192 /

39 Navitrolla 1 Sulevimagi, tel: +372 631 3716 /

40 Nu Nordik 8 Vabaduse Valjak, tel: +372 644 9392