15 November 10

Features, City Focus, City Cents

On the Ground Oslo

Tucked away at the bottom of a fjord is Oslo, the capital of the country considered to have the world's highest quality of life. And a weekend visit proves it.

Words by Ed Chamberlin.
Photography by Thomas Haugersveen

Impeccably clean, with unique attractions and a fast-evolving food and drink scene, Norway’s capital packs a potent tourist punch — perfect for a weekend break.

GET THE VIBE…

A CITY WORTH SCREAMING ABOUT

JUST LIKE THE OTHER SCANDINAVIAN capitals, water is a major facet of Oslo’s personality, nestled right at the bottom of the massive Oslofjord. The water also seems to exert a gravitational pull on the city’s most important buildings, with the Radhus (City Hall), Slottet (Royal Palace) and Storting (Parliament) all within a few minutes’ walk of the harbour – as are the award-winning, jagged Oslo Opera House and the glistening Aker Brygge shopping and restaurant complex.

Stand at the harbour and follow the gaze of the statue of Peter Tordenskjold (a heroic naval officer) out to sea, where you’ll spot many juggernaut ferries bringing in visitors from Scandinavia and beyond. Then cast your eye over Edvard Munch’s The Scream from 1893, which looks out onto the same bay from Ekeberg hill, and notice the tiny handful of fishing boats in the water – a sign of just how much Oslo has grown in popularity.

And why not? Having been repeatedly cited by the UN Human Development Index as enjoying the world’s highest quality of life – most recently in 2009 – Norway really does have a powerful ace up its sleeve. And the capital is a magnet for the nation’s food, culture, art and nightlife movers and shakers.

Heading inland, away from the august institutions that huddle around the harbour, you will see where the next generation of Oslovians live. The Akerselva river meanders through trendy Grunerlokka with the same laid-back insouciance that the locals display as they lounge on its banks. In this part of town the average age hovers around 30, and the combination of bars, restaurants, green spaces and markets all make for a delightful daytime stroll – the UN index has a point. This is not to imply that Oslo lacks energy: the busy construction of towers to the east and west of the town centre speaks of a city with its eye on the future too.

A cosmopolitan attitude, coupled with a high quality of life, makes Oslo a suitable host for the Nobel Peace Prize – the only Nobel Prize not awarded in Stockholm. After 104 years of the tradition, the city unveiled the innovative Nobel Peace Center in 2005. It joins a collection of unique museums and attractions, including the Munch Museum, exhibiting The Scream; the Natural History Museum, displaying charismatic primate fossil “Ida”; and the newly redesigned Holmenkollen ski jump, launching intrepid skiers into the Oslo sky.

One unusual thing I noticed about Oslo is what seemed to be a superabundance of living statues – people sprayed silver, standing on streets and squares, refusing to move. Aside from these typical street performers, Oslo also boasts real clay statues that come as close to being alive as could be possible. The Vigeland Park, part of the larger Frogner Park in western Oslo, was populated with vibrant statues by sculptor Gustav Vigeland from 1924 until his death in 1943, and is another of Oslo’s unique features. The resulting outdoor exhibit is an uplifting and energetic procession of human figures leading up to the Monolith, a 14m-high monument composed of 121 writhing individuals. Walking amid the array of exuberantly dancing statues will make you proud to be carrying around your own bodily frame.

Here is perhaps a microcosm of the Norwegian spirit: full of energy and the joys of life, amusingly out of the ordinary and executed with an inventive and stylish approach. Skål!

ON THE STREET…

SAIL PAST SOME NATIONAL TREASURES

SO HERE I AM IN THE 13TH CENTURY – or what may as well be – standing in a serene, grassy square with the layered roofs of the Gol Stave Church in front of me and a charming wooden homestead and barn behind me. These buildings, and many others in the museum, were brought from around Norway to the Bygdøy peninsula west of the city centre.

Together they form the Norsk Folkemuseum ( 1 www.norskfolkemuseum.no), which also lies near the Kon-Tiki Museum ( 2 www.kon-tiki.no), dedicated to swashbuckling environmentalist Thor Heyerdahl; the Viking Ship Museum ( 3 www.khm.uio.no), dedicated to swashbuckling heroes of yore; and the Norwegian Maritime Museum ( 4 www.norsk-sjofartsmuseum.no), dedicated to swashbucklers in general.

If you haven’t found your sea legs yet, the Folkemuseum makes for a relaxing stroll through Norway’s history. Medieval dwellings, cute 17th-century hamlets and 1960s teenagers’ bedrooms with record players humming away are all arranged like a film set.

Traversing this arc of time and architecture should get you in the mood for experiencing the works of some Norwegian icons. Playwright Henrik Ibsen (1828–1906), who incidentally sported some of the most impressive mutton-chop sideburns ever, was the author of international stage classics Peer Gynt and A Doll’s House. After struggling financially for most of his life, his vivid, modernist writing eventually made him rich and famous. Today, you can visit the Ibsen Museum ( 5 www.norskfolkemuseum.no), the house where he lived with wife Suzannah.

Edvard Munch (1863–1944) is of course responsible for one of the most famous artworks of all time, The Scream – actually part of a series of paintings and prints. Appropriated for logos and spoofs everywhere, it has somewhat overshadowed the rest of his very interesting career and life, about which you can learn more at the excellent Munch Museum ( 6 www.munch.museum.no). His lonely, tormented, but also strikingly beautiful paintings are reminiscent of Van Gogh’s work, but seem more psychological even than those of the Dutchman. Pay particular attention to his Madonna, Kiss, Vampire, Death in the Sickroom and the haunting Separation.

A newer addition to the cultural landscape comes in the form of the Nobel Peace Center ( 7 www.nobelpeacecenter.org), which opened its doors in 2005. Designed by architect David Adjaye, it’s suitably modern and innovative, especially in the Field Room, an alien environment with fibre-optic fronds sticking out of the floor holding screens with past winners’ biographies displayed on them.

Notes on Norway

Despite famously holding the record for the most “nul points” at the Eurovision Song Contest, Norway surprisingly began to emerge as a major world force in jazz from the 1970s onwards

Today, labels such as Rune Grammofon, Jazzland Records and Smalltown Supersound are responsible for some of the most forward- thinking jazz and improv being produced today. Rune Grammofon’s flagship band, the mighty Supersilent, have recently released the album 10, for which they’ve toned down their often raucous and abrasive sound, and started to somewhat resemble their name: super, not quite silent, but really quite beautiful.

Visit Bare Jazz ( 8 www.barejazz.no), a jazz record store/café run by celebrated tenor saxophonist Bodil Niska, who will swamp you with recommendations if you ask. However, she may be too modest to recommend one of her own records, such as 2008’s Night Time, or the best-selling First Song, so be sure to ask for them directly!

AT THE HOTEL

MINIMALIST MANSIONS AND GREEN LIVING

SOME OF THE MOST INTERESTING SIGHTS at the Norsk Folkemuseum are the old homesteads, built sturdily out of wood. But one thought that inevitably crosses your mind is “How on earth did they handle the cold back then?”. Luckily, the Oslo of today offers plenty of warm and comfortable beds.

Park Inn ( 9 doubles from 1,195NOK (€147), www.parkinn.com) is located not far from Christiania Torv, where in 1624 the city was refounded as “Christiania” by King Christian IV following a devastating fire. If you have your designs on the main shopping and culture vein Karl Johans Gate, this is also the perfect spot for you. The 118 rooms, spread over seven floors, all boast the kind of eco- credentials that have put Scandinavia at the forefront of green living; while the intersecting yellow, black, blue, green and red lines that shuttle their way around the hotel look like a Mondrian painting and bespeak modernity.

Rica Hotel G20 ( 10 doubles from 1,845NOK (€228), www.rica-hotels.com) on Grensen is the latest of 10 Rica hotels that are dotted around Oslo. Equally modern in design, its rooms are compact and minimalist, while perfectly appointed. High-tech touches include ingenious coat hangers built into the walls, and iPod docking stations to play your music. The full-length windows give a great spy-view out onto the street below, and help the building glisten after dark. Get the full experience of the G20 by booking a table at the excellent new Carls restaurant and lounge (see overleaf), and preface a top dinner by nursing a drink or two in the trendy bar area, with its modernist fire features.

From the outside, the Folketeateret is a rather stern building. Once inside, you come face-to-face with an extraordinarily weird statue of a giant contorted Kate Moss by Mark Quinn. But right opposite Kate is the Clarion Collection Hotel Folketeateret ( 11 doubles from 1,400NOK (€173), www.clarionhotel.com), a wonderfully ostentatious abode that bombards you with colour from the moment you step inside. Its rooms are veritably regal, with books of poetry stacked on the shelves, and you have to practically swim your way through a sea of pillows and cushions to reach the bed.

Budget Hotel ( 12 doubles from 799NOK (€99), www.oslobudgethotel.no) brings the prices down, stripping the rooms back to the bare essentials (flatscreen TVs are clearly an essential in this day and age!), and plonking you right down on Prinsens Gate in the centre of town. The rooms in the Anker Hotel ( 13 doubles from 850NOK (€105), www.anker-hotel.no) are a bit more “maximalist”, and the hotel is handily sandwiched between the city centre and Grunerlokka.

In the army now

Oslo is notoriously pricey, so to trim your outgoings down a bit, these cheaper options may come in handy. Perminalen ( 14 twin rooms 840NOK (€106), www.perminalen.no) sits next door to the Park Inn, and is ideal if you’re travelling with a group of friends. For instance, a four- or six-bed room would cost 370NOK (€46) per person. For over 50 years, the hotel has worked with the Norwegian army, who use the hotel all-year round. This leads to the surreal situation of seeing soldiers wandering around the corridors in uniform. But don’t worry, they’re well trained!

If the soldiers make you feel ashamed of your physique, to the north of the city lies the Olympiatoppen Sportshotell ( 15 doubles 840NOK (€106), www.sportshotellet.com), where you could feel even worse about yourself – since it attracts Olympic athletes through its doors to train. However, one bonus is that guests can enjoy free access to the extensive gym facilities.

ON THE TABLE

THE NORDIC KITCHEN GETS CREATIVE

EVERYONE’S HEARD OF HÄAGEN-DAZS, but where do you think it’s from? Actually, it’s from the US – but the name was specifically invented to look Scandinavian to reflect the luxury and sophistication exuded by those nations. Well, we’re here now, so bring it on!

I was lucky enough to be staying at the Rica Hotel G20 on the very day that top chef Christofer Bengtsson launched Carls ( 16 www.carls.no) in its downstairs section. Bengtsson specialises in modern Scandinavian, serving up slow-cooked salmon with trout roe and “horseradish snow” as an artful starter; and the equally inventive “Sea” made with shellfish, tarragon and seawater, expertly paired with a kyo no sui sake by sommelier Anders Thoren. This spirit of invention continues throughout the menu, making Carls a proud new addition to Oslo’s restaurant scene.

Equally excellent is Posthallen ( 17 www.posthallenrestaurant.no), housed in Oslo’s old postal sorting office. Despite its cavernous interior, manager Claas Mäder has created an air of intimacy and humour, with an understated, vaguely African colour scheme and the use of ostrich eggs as lampshades. The menu is driven by talented young chef Daniel Franzén, who conjured up blue mussels in saffron soup as an amuse bouche, a nimbly organised salmon and whitebait roe starter, and a main of hearty chicken with truffle cream and caramalised onion. The evening was topped off with raspberry mousse and marshmallow sorbet, with a selection of in-house chocolates. Over Christmas, Daniel will embrace the festive spirit by spraying Christmas-related aromas, such as cinnamon and pork, on his winter dishes.

Head down to the glistening new harbour development, Tjuvholmen, to find the latest outlet of Bølgen & Moi ( 18 www.bolgenogmoi.no), a chain of trendy seafood restaurants where you can get messy with their massive pot of mussels in coconut milk served with French fries.

Up in trend-setting Grunerlokka you’ll find Delicatessen ( 19 www.delicatessen.no). With its warm colours, wall illustrations by up-and- coming artist Benjamin Bergmann and a hearty abundance of Spanish wine and tapas, this place has become a magnet for an image- conscious crowd, especially in the late afternoon. Fine for two, but even better for groups of eight or nine, splurge on bowls of sausage, salmon, cheese and mussels to your heart’s content.

For a little retro fun, The Nighthawk Diner ( 20 ), which ironically does a really good breakfast, is a 1930s-style American eatery, complete with whirring fans, classic uniforms, lots and lots of pre-plastic-era metal and a version of Edward Hopper’s famous Nighthawks at the back.

Food fit for a genius

Every day, at 11.30 on the dot, Henrik Ibsen would leave his house and stroll down to the Grand Café ( 21 www.grand.no), at the luxury Grand Hotel, pausing to check himself out in the shop windows before taking his seat at a table set aside specifically for him.

You may not get that kind of treatment, but you can walk in his footsteps by first visiting the Ibsen Museum. From here, a winding series of metallic letters spelling out his most famous lines is built into the pavement, following his exact path from what is now Henrik Ibsens Gate down to the corner of Karl Johans Gate and Rosenkrantz Gate (checking yourself out in the shop windows as you go!).

Once sat down at the Parisian-style café, you have a choice of menus paying homage to creative heroes such as Ibsen, painter Edvard Munch and bohemian author and illustrator Christian Krohg. Warm up on a chilly day with the latter’s sigh-inducing creamed soup of lobster with chilli and veg, or go classic with herring, the fish Ibsen himself would invariably choose.

TO THE BAR

FROM MANHATTAN TO VAN HALEN

YES, THE RUMOURS ARE TRUE: BEER IS expensive here. But don’t worry, it doesn’t in any way diminish Oslo’s varied and vibrant nightlife. The first places you’ll see to wet your whistle will probably be the big ones along Karl Johans Gate, like The Scotsman ( 22 www.scotsman.no), O’Learys ( 23 www.olearys.se) and 3 Brødre ( 24 www.3brodre.no).

But slip off the main thoroughfares and you’ll discover a city teeming with interesting venues and people. On Ploensgate, which slides unobtrusively past the massive Folketeateret, Mono ( 25 www.cafemono.no) is the embodiment of Oslo cool. Accessed through a trade entrance, you first encounter a random jumble of stools and tables arranged in a tiny outside courtyard. Inside, you have a choice between the murky jazz section, with old-fashioned radios hanging from the ceiling and quirky bands playing to a too- cool-for-school crowd; or the more cheerful environment of the American diner-style disco, with the DJ (located in a little coop up a ladder) playing old rock ’n’ roll hits. Yin and yang.

Conversation flows as abundantly as the beer at Olympen ( 26 www.olympen.no), which exudes a fin-de-siècle air. Although, precisely which “siècle” is unclear, since the imposing wooden interior, with its rows of regal, padded benches and shimmering chandeliers, is inhabited by trendy-hairstyled 20-somethings chattering away with iPods and mobiles at the ready. It stands out thanks to the Olympian selection of beers from all over the world, which runs into the hundreds. Out of interest, I looked for the most expensive I could find: if you’re feeling flush, empty your wallet for a 1.5l bottle of Oude Geuze 2004, which rolls in at an impressive 650NOK (€80)!

With a smaller and cheaper selection of beers, and a more intimate atmosphere, Oslo Mekaniske Verksted ( 27 www.oslomekaniskeverksted.no) hosts small groups of friends huddled round tables. Meaning “Oslo mechanical workshop”, the bar’s interior is suitably industrial-looking, featuring stripped brick walls, sloping ceilings and antique standing lamps whose lights barely penetrate the cosy darkness.

On the flip side there’s the newly refurbished Ett Glass ( 28 www.ettglass.no), overseen by Claas Mäder from renowned restaurant Posthallen. A snazzy, gay-friendly, Manhattan-y kind of place, this bar attracts a diverse crowd of Oslo sophisticates who come to sip on cocktails and nibble on small dishes served with an equal panache as found at Posthallen. Afterwards, brave the cold for a blast of fresh air down at the harbour, as you admire the lights reflecting off the bay, and watch the boats and ferries bobbing slowly up and down.

Find your frequency

If you have a broad taste in music, you could treat your trip to Oslo like scanning through the radio. Starting at 87.5MHz, sample the black leather, chains and big hair of heavy metal bar Rock In ( 29 www.rockin.no) on Ovre Slottsgate. Turn the dial towards 90MHz and the cosy hive of hip Café Dus ( 30 ) on Akersgata comes into clarity, where hip-hop and drum and bass play to guests who, depending on the weather, either cluster around heaters on the terrace, or lounge amid the purple cushions adorning the interior. Further tuning will take you to Dronningens Gate, where the Elm Street Rock Café ( 31 www.elmstreet.no) displays classic rock album covers on the walls and drowns out your conversation. Then crank the dial over to 108.0MHz at Blå ( 32 www.blaaoslo.no) right on the banks of the Akerselva. This workshop-like venue bombards music-loving locals with an endless barrage of innovative jazz and electronic music. Get there early to avoid the queues!

IN THE BAG

MAKESHIFT MARKETS TO VINYL VENDORS

IN A SENSE, I’M GLAD I’M NOT VERY fashionable. In Oslo, I was so surrounded by tempting retail outlets that if I was keen on updating my so-called “look”, I would be left with both a massive credit card bill, and little space in my suitcase for anything else!

Fittingly, Norway’s most exclusive shopping mall, EGER ( 33 www.egerkarljohan.no), is on the main stretch of Karl Johans Gate, attracting the greatest number of eyes it can with its strikingly minimal facade. Once inside, you first need to acclimatise yourself to the ultra-slick interior, which looks strangely like where a fashion-conscious Darth Vader might shop, being all shiny black chrome surfaces and long corridors. And the brands can’t be beaten either, with Tommy Hilfiger, Marc O’Polo and G-Star Raw nestling alongside Norwegian brands like Høyer and LAAFT. If all that leaves you in need of refreshment, grab yourself a glass of wine at the punny vinEGER on the second floor.

Yet more humour and local authenticity is injected into Moods of Norway ( 34 www.moodsofnorway.com), a warm and fuzzy local fashion brand kick-started six years ago by Simen Staalnacke and Peder Børresen, whose stated goal is “to make happy clothes for happy people around the world”. If Norway’s place on the global happiness index is anything to go by, visitors to Oslo will be appropriately emotionally prepared for their playful designs.

Further along the retail spectrum is Råkk & Rålls ( 35 ), a fantastic record shop filled with retro jackets, vintage speakers and record players, along with a clientele of chin-stroking record-flippers looking for that elusive first pressing. It looks like a hipster student’s dream bedroom, and is the perfect place to procure some local sounds. I can recommend the Kaizers Orchestra, a punk-oompah band who sing in the “Byrne” dialect of Norwegian, which can be hard even for Norwegians to understand!

Or for something more sophisticated, head round the corner to Bare Jazz (see On the Street), run by successful saxophonist Bodil Niska, for some local and classic jazz sounds.

Grunerlokka is also a good place to offload some cash, with plenty of cool shops up and down Thorvald Meyers Gate, including vintage fashion store Los Lobos ( 36 www.loslobos.no), and Probat ( 37 www.probat.no) for some gloriously quirky T-shirts with humorous text (in Norwegian) printed on them.

Or turn up on Sundays to Blå (see At the Bar), which from 12pm to 5pm becomes a cornucopia of knitwear, jewellery, glass, paintings and toys. In the weeks leading up to Christmas, the market takes on a seasonal air, and is supplemented with another opening on Saturdays.

Bring a bottle

With outlets all over town, Vinmonopolet ( 38 www.vinmonopolet.no) is your go-to place if you like your drinks with a high alcohol content – 4.75% to be precise. Owned by the state, these shops are the only retail outlets allowed to sell hard liquor, so if you want to come home with a bottle of Aquavit, or its harder cousin Linie Aquavit, you’ll have to drop by here. These shops are a much-loved icon of Norway, and there is even an exact replica of a Vinmonopolet from 1930 in the Norsk Folkemuseum. You can smell the history… or is that booze?

And keep your eyes peeled for an incredible bargain; in 2001, an entire batch of Château Latour flew out of the shop at the improbable price of 555NOK (€68) a bottle – an amazing saving on the standard price of 2,600NOK (€320). On the shop’s stocklist, the less prohibitively expensive Château Latour à Pomerol had its name edited down for space, and in the confusion, the Pomerol’s price was affixed to bottles of the costly Château Latour!

PHOTOGRAPHY: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK

1 / THE COLOUR ALBUM

While a-ha were putting Norway on the map in the West, fellow new wavers Fra Lippo Lippi were also storming the charts… in the Philippines. Founder/bassist Rune Kristoffersen now runs the experimental/jazz label Rune Grammofon.

WWW.RUNEGRAMMOFON.COM 99.50NOK (€12)

2 / LINIE AQUAVIT

Linie Aquavit is a more grizzled version of the famous Scandinavian liqueur. In 1807, barrels of the drink were left in a ship travelling to Australia, yet tasted better on their return. Today all Linie Aquavit crosses the equator twice before hitting the shops!

WWW.LINIE.COM 335NOK (€41)

3 / FREIA MELKESJOKOLADE

You may not immediately think of chocolate when you hear “Norway”, but Freia – launched in 1906 – is the country’s largest producer of the stuff. This is the classic original, and the words “Et lite stykke Norge” mean “a little bit of Norway”.

WWW.FREIA.NO 38NOK (€4.70)

4 / MINI-CHURNER

Although not necessarily the most appetising- looking cheese, “brunost” (brown cheese) is a regular fixture here in Norway. Traditionally, it’s made by boiling milk, cream and whey up in a churner, like this mini-version from the Norsk Folkemuseum.

WWW.NORSKFOLKEMUSEUM.NO 40NOK (€5)

5 / PEER GYNT

Henrik Ibsen is considered a playwright of a similar calibre to Shakespeare, having essentially invented modern drama, and whose plays have been performed in 76 languages. His most famous work, Peer Gynt, is a tale of a lazy, dishonest, yet good- natured farm boy’s complex journey through life.

129NOK (€16)

WHERE IT'S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Norsk Folkemuseum 10 Museumsveien, Bygdoy, tel: +47 2 212 3700
2 Kon-Tiki Museum 36 Bygdoynesveien, tel: +47 2 308 6767
3 Viking Ship Museum 35 Huk Aveny, tel: +47 2 213 5280
4 Norwegian Maritime Museum 37 Bygdoynesveien, tel: +47 2 411 4150
5 Ibsen Museum 26 Henrik Ibsensgate, tel: +47 2 212 3550
6 Munch Museum 53 Toyengata, tel: +47 2 349 3500
7 Nobel Peace Center Radhusplassen, tel: +47 4 830 1000
8 Bare Jazz 8 Grensen, tel: +47 2 233 2080
9 Park Inn Ovre Slottsgate 2c, tel: +47 2 240 0100
10 Rica Hotel G20 20 Grensen, tel: +47 2 201 6400
11 Clarion Collection Hotel Folketeateret 21–23 Storgaten, tel: +47 2 200 5700
12 Budget Hotel 6 Prinsens Gate, tel: +47 2 101 4055
13 Anker Hotel 55 Storgata, tel: +47 2 299 7500
14 Perminalen 2 Ovre Slottsgate, tel: +47 2 400 5500
15 Olympiatoppen Sportshotell 228 Sognsveien, tel: +47 2 202 5735
16 Carls 20 Grensen, tel: +47 2 201 6410
17 Posthallen 8 Prinsensgate, tel: +47 2 241 1730
18 Bølgen & Moi 5 Tjuvholmen Alle, tel: +47 2 244 1020
19 Delicatessen 8 Sondregate, tel: +47 2 271 4546
20 The Nighthawk Diner 15b Seilduksgata, tel: +47 9 662 7327
21 Grand Café 31 Karl Johans Gate, tel: +47 2 321 2000
22 Scotsman 17 Karl Johans Gate, tel: +47 2 247 4477
23 O'Learys 33b Karl Johans Gate, tel: +47 2 233 2040
24 3 Brødre 14 Ovre Slottsgate, tel: +47 2 310 0670
25 Mono 4 Ploensgate, tel: +47 2 241 4166
26 Olympen 15 Gronlandsleiret, tel: +47 2 410 1999
27 Oslo Mekaniske Verksted 34 Toyenbekken, tel: +47 4 523 7534
28 Ett Glass 33 Karl Johans Gate, tel: +47 2 233 4079
29 Rock In 10 Ovre Slottsgate, tel: +47 2 242 0200
30 Café Dus 35 Akersgata, tel: +47 2 233 3329
31 Elm Street Rock Cafe 32 Dronningens Gate, tel: +47 2 242 1427
32 Blå 9c Brenneriveien, tel: +47 2 220 9181
33 EGER 23b Karl Johans Gate
34 Moods of Norway 18 Akersgata
35 Råkk & Rålls 39 Akersgata, tel: +47 2 236 0488
36 Los Lobos 30 Thorvald Meyers Gate, tel: +47 2 238 2440
37 Probat 54 Thorvald Meyers Gate, tel: +47 2 235 2070
38 Vinmonopolet 16 Nordre Gate, tel: +47 2 233 4560