15 January 12

Features

Marrakesh On The Ground

Matthew Lee explores one of Morocco's most vibrant and modern cities, and finds its bustling square, thriving souks and exquisite riads are just the start of your adventure. Photography by Tim White

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ALL ROADS LEAD TO THE SQUARE

YOU CAN CALL IT JAMAA EL FNA. You can call it La Place. And, as the English language seeps surreptitiously into Marrakesh's charming French-Arabic mishmash, you can now get away with calling it The Square.

No matter what you choose to call it, you're not going to miss it - no other city is so utterly dominated by its main square. All roads seem to lead here, whether you're coming from the implausibly tangled network of small lanes and narrow alleyways of the old city (known as the Medina), or the spacious European-style streets of the new town. And if you're not heading towards Jamaa el Fna, nobody told the locals - you'll see a succession of people pointing in the direction of the square regardless of whether or not you asked for help.

The square is enormous, and is boosted by several smaller squares that appear to have attached themselves to its edges like raindrops to a puddle. A parade of henna tattooists, orange juicers, boot polishers and fez sellers sprawls in every direction. For first-time visitors it can feel like you've accidentally wandered onto the set of Arabian Nights. Huge crowds of locals and tourists form circles around storytellers, whose dramatic renditions of biblical tales and Arabic folklore have remained resolutely popular. Jamaa el Fna may be a tourist must-see, but it's a locals' hangout too. When you visit the nightly food market, you'll likely find yourself wedged on a bench between Moroccans of all ages and backgrounds. The square is the city's meeting place.

While a good chunk of your time will be spent in and around Jamaa el Fna, most of the restaurants, bars, shops and hotels in this guide are to be found elsewhere in the city. For

Marrakesh's best food and nightlife, you'll want to step out in the new town. It's unfair to expect any 20th-century construction to possess a fraction of the charm of the Medina, but the French colonial architecture and tree-lined boulevards are attractive in a different way. And on the other side of the square, the old city is an enormous maze enticing you to get lost. Ditch the map and go for a stroll. That's how the adventure begins.

ON THE STREET

MINT TEA AND PHOTOGRAPHY

MARRAKESH ISN'T LIKE PARIS, Rome or London. It's not a place where you go sightseeing and cross places off a checklist. This is a place where the entire city is the main attraction - the architecture, the markets, the people, the mosques, the food. A small number of historical sites and cultural centres do exist, but you can get them out of the way on the first day and then enjoy Marrakesh the way it's meant to be enjoyed - getting lost in the passages and souks (markets) of the Medina, dodging speeding motorcycles and ambling donkeys, haggling over the price of colourful carpets, and stopping for countless cups of sugary mint tea.

Start at the strikingly handsome Musée de Marrakech 1 (www.museedemarrakech.ma), which used to be known as Dar M'Nebhi Palace. The traditional teapots, embroidery and weaponry on display are what you'd expect to see here, but the tilework throughout the building is sensational and much of the space is dedicated to contemporary art.

Turn right outside the museum and walk down the street to Medersa Ben Youssef 2 , a religious school from the 16th century where 130 tiny student dorms surround a tranquil courtyard with a shallow pool at its centre. Mosques are off-limits to non-Muslims in Marrakesh, so for many tourists this is a rare chance to learn about Islamic architecture in Morocco. A 60MAD (€5) combo ticket covers both the museum and the school.

Two years ago, Frenchman Patrick Manac'h and local enthusiast Hamid Mergani opened the Maison de la Photographie 3 (www.maisondelaphotographie.ma) in a central location in the Medina. Manac'h has been collecting photographs of Morocco for over 15 years and by the time he'd amassed several thousand of them it became obvious that they needed to go on public display. The gallery is housed in a beautiful old riad (Moroccan house with a courtyard), boasting one of the highest roof terraces in the Medina and postcard-perfect views.

These are exciting times for art aficionados in Marrakesh. The fourth Marrakech Biennale takes place 29 February-4 March at venues across the city, and you can see an exhibition of art inspired by the geography of the Atlas mountains (running until end of May), alongside expertly curated film, literature and music strands. You should also check out the Voice Gallery 4 (www.voicegallery.net) whose exhibition by Serbian visual artist Mihael Milunović runs until 25 February.

Finally, don't miss the colourful Jardin Majorelle 5 (www.jardinmajorelle.com), an artistically landscaped garden in the north of the city renowned for its birds, cacti and collection of rare plants.

Caravane of love

Nick Wilde had a successful career as a musician and producer in London until his recording studio was destroyed first by a flood and then by a fire. It seemed like a higher power was urging him to leave. "My wife and I thought about working remotely, and we chose Marrakesh because we'd been on our honeymoon and loved it," he says. They rented a riad in the Medina and Nick got to work building a studio.

"Word must have got around that I was a producer because suddenly local musicians started turning up at our front door," he says. Before long he was jamming with people from all over Morocco, incorporating their Berber sounds with his dance and techno influences. The result was a new record label, Marrakchi Records, and the first release is the album Caravane, which is available to purchase on iTunes.

AT THE HOTEL

THE RIAD DEAL

WITH ITS EXTRAORDINARY ATTENTION to detail, Maison MK6 (www.maisonmk.com) is quite a feast for the eyes, which isn't surprising when you learn that its owners, Paul and Aoibheann Hopkins, are both professional photographers. In striking contrast to the dusty lanes of the Medina it's located in, this place oozes chicness; a stay here can feel like you're living in a fashion shoot. With just five rooms and a suite, a fantastic bar on the roof terrace, and manager Mary on hand to provide a personal touch, it's a great place for honeymooners. It's not the right place if you have a young family though, as there is an over-12s only policy. Doubles from 3,077MAD (€275).

When Jean-François and Delphine Claeys opened Riad Tchaikana 7 (www.tchaikana.com) over 10 years ago, there were only 35 riads in the whole of Marrakesh. There are now more than 700. It speaks volumes that Tchaikana continues to fill its six gorgeous rooms and suites with ease. The Claeys' story is a familiar one among European expatriates who've started businesses in the city. They had successful careers in their native Belgium but felt that they didn't have enough time to live their lives.

"We wanted to escape the system we were living in and experience a different pace," says Jean-François, a genial host who welcomes every guest like an old friend, offering tips on the best local shops and restaurants. Tchaikana was a labour of love for the couple; Delphine, with a background in design, took charge of the interiors and created a space that's above all calm and peaceful. A retreat from the world outside. "You only have to walk out our front door to experience the hectic life of the Medina," says Jean-François. Double rooms start from 1,007MAD (€90).

If you're not a "less is more" person, spend the night at Bab Hotel 8 (www.babhotelmarrakech.com). It's a Parisian breed of luxuriousness, a no-holds-barred bourgeois-bohemian fantasy. We love the espresso machines in every room, and the new-town location is perfect for investigating the wave of hip bars that have opened recently in the area. Doubles from 1,108MAD (€99).

The most famous and most expensive hotel in the city is La Mamounia 9 (www.mamounia.com). It reopened a couple of years ago after a €100 million refurbishment, and it has lost little of the charm that led Winston Churchill to declare it "the most lovely spot in the whole world". Apart from being a hotel, it's also one of the finest examples of Moorish-meets-European architecture you could imagine, and home to the most beautiful garden in the city. Double rooms here start at 6,000MAD (€536).

Sleep under the stars

Camping in Morocco is an almost year-round option and several desert camps compete for your custom. To many, this is the ultimate Moroccan experience and so it's worth noting that the camps are by no means cheaper than a hotel.

The best camp in Morocco is a full day's journey from Marrakesh, but it's well worth the effort. Erg Chigaga 10 (www.desertcampmorocco.com) is in the middle of nowhere, which is exactly where an escape from the modern world should be. Here, the stars seem to shine more brightly and the dunes undulate into the distance. The tents themselves rival suites at five-star hotels, with king-size beds and handmade Moroccan furnishings. A night here costs 2,514MAD (€225) per person (minimum stay two nights). But this is the desert, so the shower, incongruously, consists of a bucket of hot water.

ON THE TABLE

TAGINE GENIES

THERE'S MORE TO MOROCCAN cuisine than tagines and couscous. That said, it really does help if you're into tagines and couscous. Moroccan food is all about the subtle balancing of sweet and savoury flavours, with dates, prunes, sultanas and honey contrasting with seasonings and spices. Since it's compulsory to try at least one tagine while you're here, it's worth going to the places that set the benchmark, Al Fassia 11 (www.alfassia.com) and Le Foundouk 12 (www.foundouk.com). Al Fassia has long been rated the Moroccan restaurant in town, and one bite of the gamey, eggy, cinnamon-laced pigeon pastilla (a flaky pie), or a forkful of the drop-from-the-bone lamb tagine will prove this new-town eatery is still on top of its game. Meanwhile, Le Foundouk adventurously pairs the likes of rabbit pastilla and calamari tagine with excellent wines from the coastal town of Essaouira. The spectacularly converted old house is spread over three levels and is ideal for special occasions.

If you're looking to spend less, Chez Chegrouni 13 offers simple, good-value tagines and couscous in an unbeatable location - the top floor offers brilliant views of Jamaa el Fna. Nearby, Borj El Koutoubia 14 whips up a sensational fish tagine; while Restaurant Naïma 15 is the cutest of eateries and feels like you're in a local family's front room. The 99MAD (€9) three-course set menu represents excellent value for money.

At Gastro MK 16 (www.maisonmk.com), the tiny restaurant at Maison MK, chef Omar El Ouahssoussi serves a "deconstructed tagine", which takes the constituent parts of the stew and turns it into the kind of steak dish you'd find in a Parisian bistro. The 615MAD (€55) tasting menu begins with drinks and canapés on the roof terrace before moving downstairs to the intimate, quiet restaurant - definitely one for couples.

Another elegant location is the courtyard of Le Jardin 17 , whose young Moroccan owner Kamal Laftimi already has three successful eateries under his belt. His latest venture takes full advantage of the tranquility offered by a stately old riad. Aside from table football, chessboards and a friendly rabbit called Momo, there's a French/ Moroccan mix of croque-monsieurs, tagines, hamburgers and the city's best cupcakes. For non-Moroccan food, go to Kechmara 18 (www.kechmara.com), a much-loved new town restaurant that boasts an eclectic menu, and equally eclectic live music Wednesday to Saturday.

And when you're craving a mid-shop caffeine boost go to Le Picasso Du Cafe 19 and order a "nos-nos", a local take on the macchiato. The enthusiastic man making the coffee is a former footballer, hence the photos of soccer players all over the walls.

Square meal

Eating dinner in Jamaa el Fna can feel like an endurance sport. But, as any marathon runner will tell you, the feeling of crossing the finish line makes it all worthwhile. There are dozens of stalls at the nightly food market and every one will fight tooth and nail for your custom. Nearly all the food is cheap, authentic and fabulously tasty.

With so much choice, the only sensible option is a five-course meal. With each course at a different stall, naturally. Get into the swing of things with a 5MAD (€0.50) bowl of escargots, then head to the soup kitchens on the far side for some khobz (bread) and harira (a spicy lentil and tomato soup). Then venture deep into the market for a plate of sheep's head (what could possibly go wrong?) followed by a pigeon pastilla. Wrap things up with a cup of super-strong cinnamon tea and slice of ginger cake. Yum.

TO THE BAR

BELLY LAUGHS AND BELLY DANCING

"TO ME, MARRAKESH IS EXCITING," says Buddha Bar founder Claude Challe, sitting by the large gate that separates his new venture Djellabar 20 (www.djellabar.com) from the outside world. "This is where I want to be." If you've been to a branch of Buddha Bar you'll know what to expect - playful pop-art (John Lennon wearing a fez), chill-out music, a fusion menu of Moroccan and Asian food, and dodgy puns (a djellaba is a traditional robe). Challe's "Maroc 'n' roll" style seems to work - only a month after opening the bar is packed to the rafters with Marrakesh's notoriously fickle see-and-be-seen crowd.

There's only one place in town that can follow drinks at Djellabar - the nearby Comptoir Darna 21 (www.comptoirmarrakech.com), with its nightly belly dancing shows. Ignore the inconvenient truth that belly dancing has never been a local tradition and just enjoy the show for its sheer silliness. The scantily clad dancers shake their stuff for tourists holding camera-phones, while more fully clothed dancers waltz around the room balancing a load of lit candles precariously on their heads. For a quieter drink, you can sit in the shisha pipe garden or in the quieter dining section - the menu is split between North African and European cuisines. Drinks are unsurprisingly pricey, but it's worth it for the entertainment.

After the glitz and kitsch of Djellabar and Comptoir you'll be craving something a little more sophisticated and subtle. The Marrakesh hip crowd's latest obsession, the excellent L'Apero 22, certainly fits the bill with a relaxed, informal ambiance and great quality tapas and drinks. The raspberry mojito is this it-bar's cocktail du jour.

The smooth, mood-lit vibe at the bar is somewhat undermined by the occasional football match being screened on TV, but it's always possible to retreat to the serenity of the palm-fringed terrace. The Sky Bar 23 at hotel La Renaissance (www.renaissance-hotel-marrakech.com) is the best new-town option for a drink with a view. Stylish, with great service and great drinks, the bar's panoramic views over Marrakesh are unbeatable on a clear night.

Since you're not allowed to sell alcohol within close proximity of a mosque, nightlife options in the Medina are very limited. Our favourite place by far is Kosybar 24 (www.kosybar.com), a brisk 10-minute walk from Jamaa el Fna. Plush sofas, cosy fireplaces, candlelit tables, a well-stocked wine bar and a roof terrace with a view of the Koutoubia Mosque towering over the old city is a winning combination. Japanese food, something of a rarity is this part of the world, is available if you're feeling peckish.

Locals' favourites

If you want a break from the sparkle, shine and top-end cocktails of Marrakesh's à la mode venues, there are some more laid-back options worth a look too. At Bar Model 25 the owners are blissfully unconcerned about minor details such as modernity. This time-warp bar is beautiful in a retro, understated way, and there's a huge outdoor terrace with a barbecue in the evenings. Bottles of Flag Spéciale and Casablanca are only 15MAD (€1) each.

For nightly live music with a sub-Saharan vibe, African Chic 26 (www.african-chic.com) is very entertaining. And for something completely different, try Madame Porte 27 , a bar rarely frequented by international visitors where you'll find an undiluted local experience - a man playing a synth, a young singer, and groups of Moroccans grooving in their chairs.

HIT THE SHOPS

TO HAGGLE OR NOT TO HAGGLE?

MARRAKESH IS ONE OF THE GREATEST shopping destinations in the world. But two magic five-letter words have long been absent from the retail scene. These words are "fixed" and "price". Thankfully, it's no longer the case that the only way to shop here is to haggle in the souk - although that can be fun too, of course (see column, right).

The most exciting recent development in Marrakesh shopping is the row of boutique shops in the arcade beneath the Terrasse des Épices restaurant. Lalla28 (motto: "From Marrakesh With Love") is run by Laetitia Trouillet, a French woman who previously ran a fashion business in London's Portobello Market. After moving to Morocco she worked as the city's first personal shopper - Sarah Jessica Parker was a customer - before switching her focus to her own store. Trouillet works with local craftspeople to create distinctive handbags, accessories and a vintage clothing range.

Next door, Sissi 29 is the store of French artist Silvie Pissard, and stocks handmade purses, pillows, shoes, teddy bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper.

Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 30 is a complete one-off. Its owner, the Colombian designer Viviana Gonzalez, who's lived in North Africa for eight years, is constantly on the lookout for beautiful new pieces to sell in her shop. When we popped in, she had just returned from a trip to the countryside where she had found handicrafts and impossibly cute toys made by local schoolkids.

33 Rue Majorelle 31 (www.33ruemajorelle.com) bills itself as Marrakesh's first concept store. There's certainly nothing else here like it - a large space over two floors where every corner is dedicated to a different independent designer, most of whom are Moroccan. Standout buys include kitschy purses, contemporary Moorish furnishings and subversive art and artefacts by local maverick Hassan Hajjaj. Prices are high, but so too is the quality.

If there's one shop in Marrakesh you shouldn't miss, it's Mustapha Blaoui 32 , but first you have to find it - would it be so hard to put a sign on the door, Mr Blaoui? To be fair, it looks like Mustapha has no need for signage because over the years he's earned a reputation for being the go-to man for Moroccan furniture, carpets, paintings, lighting, pottery and, well, just about anything. While the elaborate, intricate items on sale couldn't be further removed from Scandinavian minimalism, this warehouse feels like a 19th-century Ikea. It's easy to wander through room after room and end up forgetting how to get back to where you started. Sit for a cup of tea with the softly spoken owner and he'll sort out packaging, international shipping and - if you ask nicely - a hefty discount on the going price.

Souk shopping

When it comes to the markets of Marrakesh, haggling is like a sport. So you could say that the most important thing is not to win but to take part.

Many visitors approach haggling with trepidation or even fear. Others get a real thrill out of it. The trick is to find a balance between the two.

It goes without saying that you should never pay the first price you're quoted - it could even be more than double the going rate. But great deals on quality goods are possible here, and if after a bit of a friendly haggle you reach an agreement that you think represents a fair deal, it's OK to hand over the money. There's no need to insist on a price so low that even you think it's absolutely ridiculous.

Just remember the golden rule of souk shopping - you're always free to walk away. And one more thing: good luck!

IN THE BAG

MUST-BUYS FROM MARRAKESH

1 / VINTAGE COOKBOOK Want to cook those Moroccan dishes when you get back home?

The last 15 copies of this gorgeously illustrated 1976 English-language cookbook are available for purchase at Atelier Moro. 250MAD (€22)

2 / STOP T-SHIRT It isn't exactly clear why staff at restaurant Le Jardin wear the word "stop" across their chests. However, we like the design and these colourful tees can be found on sale in the upstairs shop. 200MAD (€18)

3 / LOCAL BEER Although most upmarket bars tend to only stock imported drinks, the locally produced booze isn't half bad - and what's more, the bottles look great. A small number of shops in the new town sell alcohol. 11MAD (€1)

4 / MOROCCAN PASTRIES If you get hooked on the sweet melt-in-the-mouth pastries that come with every cup of tea, head to Madame Alami on Rue de la Libertié to pick up a box to take home. 140MAD (€13)

5 / HANDMADE PURSE This cute purse is made from recycled food packaging. A selection of similar styles can be found at concept store 33 Rue Majorelle, which sells plenty of covetable items to stash in your suitcase.100MAD (€9)

WHERE IT'S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Musée de Marrakech Place Ben Youssef, tel: +212 (0)524 441893 / 2 Medersa Ben Youssef Place Ben Youssef, tel: +212 (0)524 441893 / 3 Maison de la Photographie 46 Rue Souk Ahal Fès, tel: +212 (0)524 385721 / 4Voice Gallery 366 Z. I. Sidi Ghanem, tel: +212 (0)524 336770 / 5 Jardin Majorelle Rue Yves Saint Laurent, tel: +212 (0)524 313047 / 6 Maison MK 14 Derb Sebaai, Bab L'Ksour, tel: +212 (0)524 376173 / 7 Riad Tchaikana25 Derb El Ferrane, tel: +212 (0)524 385150 / 8 Bab Hotel Angle Bd Mansour Eddahbi, Rue Mohamed El Beqal, tel: +212 (0)524 435250 / 9 La Mamounia Avenue Bab Jdid, tel: +212 (0)524 388600 / 10 Erg Chigaga El Gouera, contact@desertcampmorocco.com / 11 Al Fassia 55 Bd Zerktouni, tel: +212 (0)524 434060 / 12 Le Foundouk 55 Souk Hal Fassi, tel: +212 (0)524 378190 / 13 Chez Chegrouni Jamaa el Fna, tel: +212 (0)565 474615 / 14 Borj El Koutoubia 38 Bab Agnaou, tel: +212 (0)524 391869 / 15 Restaurant Naïma 30 Rue Azbezt, tel: +212 (0)66 784 6370 / 16 Gastro MK 14 Derb Sebaai, Bab L'Ksour, tel: +212 (0)524 376173 / 17 Le Jardin 32 Souk El Jeld, Sidi Abdelaziz, tel: +212 (0)524 378295 / 18 Kechmara 1-3 Rue de la Liberté, tel: +212 (0)524 422532 / 19 Le Picasso Du Cafe Rue Mouassine, tel: +212 (0)67 933 7107 / 20 Djellabar 2 Rue Abou Hanifa, tel: +212 (0)524 421242 / 21 Comptoir Darna Ave Echouhada, tel: +212 (0)524 437702 / 22 L'Apero 3 Rue Abou Hayane Taouhidi, tel: +212 (0)61 455 4254 / 23 Sky Bar 89 Angle Bd Zerktouni and Mohamed V, tel: +212 (0)524 337777 / 24 Kosybar 47 Place Des Ferblantiers, tel: +212 (0)524 380324 /25 Bar Model Avenue Mohammed El Bekal, tel: +212 (0)524 430133 / 26 African Chic 6 Rue Oum Errabia, tel: +212 (0)524 431424 / 27 Madame Porte Avenue Mohammed El Bekal, tel: +212 (0)524 439272 / 28 Lalla Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, tel: +212 (0)524 375272 / 29 Sissi Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, tel: +212 (0)561 522 6520 / 30 Atelier Moro 114 Place de Mouassine, tel: +212 (0)524 391678 / 31 33 Rue Majorelle Rue Yves Saint Laurent, tel: +212 (0)524 314195 / 32 Mustapha Blaoui 142-144 Bab Doukkala, tel +212 (0)524 385240

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