MALLORCA

enjoy the work of famous
modern artists at Es Baluard,
before chilling out on its
laid-back and expansive terraceThink this Balearic isle is all about crowded resorts and drunken Brits? Time to open your eyes to the island’s irresistible charms and find out why it’s the chic new playground of A-list celebrities, says Naomi Snelling

LET’S be honest, Mallorca has got itself something of a bad reputation, thanks to 18-30 resorts like Magaluf, or “Shagaluf ”, as some affectionately call it. The truth is not far from this binge drinkers’ paradise, it’s a very different world. White sandy beaches, boutique hotels and chic villages make the island a frequent destination for A-listers. Kate Moss hangs out here with the fashion set and Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones have own property on the island.

The cosmopolitan capital, Palma, is like a mini-Barcelona, offering an abundance of gourmet restaurants, art galleries and amazing architecture. No wonder it’s fast becoming the city break destination of the moment. With a waterfront that stretches for miles and shady palm-tree promenades, the city is a stroller’s paradise. Admire the huge yachts and super cool speedboats in the modern harbour, or wander the fishermen’s quarters of Santa Cruz and Santa Catalina, soaking up the chic, understated atmosphere.

One of the city’s most popular attractions and a must-see for any culture fix is Es Baluard (www.esbaluard.org) – a former fortress enjoying a new incarnation as a white concrete modern art gallery. The building makes for a striking home to works by Picasso, Miró and Cézanne and houses a top-notch restaurant. Down on the seafront, contemporary art lovers have another recently opened hotspot to explore – the Palau March (www.fundbmarch.es), showcasing works by world-renowned sculptors like Henry Moore and Rodin.

locals and tourists all go crazy
for bowls of pho served at Pho
14.Eye-catching design is a feature of the city’s growing portfolio of hip hotels, too. Smack bang in the middle of the town’s historic quarter, Puro (www.purohotel.com) is a converted 14th-century palace and one of the most fashionable places to unpack your bags. If you can’t stump up for a night there, check out the on-site bar Opio – one of the city’s funkiest watering holes – or head to the hotel’s Miami-inspired beach club, Puro Beach. For a more affordable hotel option, Ca Sa Padrina (www.hotelcasapadrina.com) is a restored 19th-century house within walking distance of the city centre, and €100 will get you a double room with a jacuzzi.

If you can drag yourself away from the buzz of the capital, you’ll be well-rewarded. Mallorca’s coast is dotted with beautiful towns, linked by lemon groves and secluded coves. Rent a car and head west, where Andratx awaits, a mere 30 minutes away. This corner of the island is home to a gorgeous beach at Camp de Mar, where Claudia Schiffer likes to top up her tan. Also check out Port Andratx, the perfect place to sip a coffee and watch the world go by. The swanky Café Cappucino (31 Avda. Mateo Bosch) at the top of the promenade occupies a prime position for a spot of people-watching.

The beautiful Sóller Valley, further up in the north-west part of the island has been on the British celebrity radar ever since writer Robert Graves (of I, Claudius fame) holed up there in the 1930s and invited a stream of British and US stars to visit. Alec Guinness, Peter Ustinov, Ava Gardner and Kingsley Amis were among his many guests. His whitewashed home has recently been turned into a museum, making it one of the island’s newest attractions (www.fundaciorobertgraves.com).

Nearby, the pretty little town of Sóller is the perfect place to enjoy a Spanish coffee. And from here you can get a vintage tram down to Port de Sóller, another café-lined port town. Stay at one of the island’s newest boutique hotels, the eight-room L’Avenida (www.avenida-hotel.com), complete with Philippe Starck bathrooms and jaw-dropping views.

Further along the coast is yet another celebrity magnet, Deia, in the Tramuntana mountains. The exclusive Hotel La Residencia (www.hotellaresidencia.com) attracts stars like Pierce Brosnan, who come to enjoy the hotel’s magnificent views and spa treatments. Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber snapped up a finca (traditional country house or farm) here, just up the road from the Valldemossa home of Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones.

But Mallorca doesn’t need celebrities to boost its charm. A couple of olive groves along from the star enclave, Fornalutx enjoys a reputation as one of Spain’s most beautiful towns. Surrounded by orange and lemon groves, it’s presided over by Puig Major, the island’s highest peak. And with its well-preserved Moorish-inspired buildings, it’s a wonderful example of traditional Mallorcan mountain architecture. The village square is clustered with restaurants and cafés that spill out onto the streets and is a beautiful place to soak up the peace of the island, far away from the crowds.

At the southern end of the Tramuntana mountains is the little hamlet Galilea, a former artists’ colony that has been given new life as a cottage complex, Scott’s Galilea (www.scottsgalilea.com), designed by interiors guru Pedro Otzoup. Unlike the more famous Galilee, there’s no “sea of ”, but the views across to the Mediterranean are absolutely staggering and the cottages are worthy of their claim to be a “view with a room”.

The southern foothills of the mountains also take in the Raiguer region, famous for its winemaking. Instead of going there with a tour operator, explore the area by yourself – the tourist office lists vineyards that offer tastings, and this way you can go at your own pace, stopping off at the hot spots along the way. Raise your glasses to a great Mallorcan adventure on the sylish side.

Shop stops

Make sure you’re looking hot and hip before you head out to the island’s hotspots.

Custo

This hip designer from Barcelona stocks clothes that’ll ensure you get noticed in even the coolest of the island’s clubs. www.custobarcelona.com

Yvonne Rohe

If you’ve got cash to splash you can pick up threads from the likes of Ben de Lisi, Vera Wang and Matthew Williamson here. Stores in both Palma and Puerto Portals. www.yvonneroha.com

Orla Kiely

Snap up one of these printed bags and you’ll instantly join the ranks of fashion A-listers. www.orlakiely.com

Porto Pi

A big shopping centre in Palma which is home to a number of shops including Zara, Mango and Massimo Dutti.