14 March 11

Features

Madrid on the ground

With world-leading arts venues and nightlife that's second to none, the Spanish capital is always buzzing, day or night.

Words by Sophy Grimshaw. Photography by Tim White

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A CITY AT THE CENTRE OF THINGS

MADRID IS A CITY WITH HEART. ONE OF the reasons it became the national capital is that it’s quite literally at the heart of Spain – at the Puerta del Sol you can stand, if you wish, on the Kilometre Zero slab that marks the precise centre of the country, close to the Real Casa de Correos clocktower that ushers in every new year.

But more than the Spanish seat of power, Madrid is one of the world’s great free-spirited capitals of the arts, of vital nightlife, of urban green spaces, of cholesterol-raising tapas, and much more. It’s also home to a statistically improbable quantity of distractingly beautiful locals. Madrid may be in the middle, but that doesn’t mean it’s in the mainstream.

Narrow medieval streets, many named in celebration of Spanish cultural greats, open up periodically into bright public squares where suddenly the light can bounce off the buildings. Every time you hit one, it feels like exhaling. Naturally there’s no beach here, but there are few better ways to spend a scorching summer’s day than in the spectacular grounds of the El Retiro park, one of the great green lungs of the city, or at the famous botanical gardens, Real Jardín Botánico.

This city offers you the opportunity to live life outdoors – from getting your shopping at Europe’s largest Sunday market, El Rastro, to meeting friends to drink and dance on the city’s myriad roof terraces.

Madrid is a study in dense urban living at its most freewheeling, and as a non-resident visitor you can make the most of that. Sleep through the morning, and daytime is yours to flit between great cultural venues; at night, stay out for as long and as late as it still feels good. The bars aren’t closing, so you need to be the one to say “buenas noches”.

You can afford to be spontaneous here and find new favourite spots as you go, because for a capital city Madrid is highly walkable. The Metro system has also been upgraded in recent years and taxis are plentiful, if roughly as expensive as in any major European city.

Madrid achieves an enviable balance of lovingly preserving its past without stagnating in it. New neighbourhoods have sprung up in recent years, like the Manhattan-esque retail district of triBall, while some of its older institutions, like the art deco-era cocktail bars around the Gran Via, retain their old-school charm. There are quirky boutiques and buzzy bars in the artists’ neighbourhood of Lavapiés and the gay district of Chueca, while for designer clothing you need to take a trip uptown to Salamanca.

If you’re unsure where to start, stop to gather your thoughts at La Librería de Lavapiés (39 Calle de Argumosa), a café/bookshop (or maybe it’s the other way around?) popular with procrastinating university students.

Remember: don’t make a lunch date before 2pm or invite anyone out to dinner before 9pm, you’ll just confuse them. The break in the day’s business for siesta around midday is a tradition still largely adhered to. At 11pm, the bars and clubs are just beginning to gather steam. We’d wager that within 24 hours you’ll be in the swing of it and in no hurry to leave. You’re on Madrid time now.

STEP OUTSIDE IN MADRID AND opportunities to soak up the best of the arts are abundant; quite often, they find you before you find them. The most obvious case being Calle de las Huertas in the literary barrio (district), the street where tributes to authors of the Spanish “golden age” are emblazoned on the paving stones beneath your feet.

Among those honoured is Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, who lived, worked and died here. And American author Ernest Hemingway frequented so many Madrid establishments that some distinguish themselves with a cheeky sign, such as “Hemingway never ate here”.

To visit Madrid without stopping to see any of its masterpieces would be madness, so allow a good chunk of time for daytime gallery visits if you can. One of the key art capitals, Madrid is a world leader thanks to institutions such as the famous Prado ( 1 www.museodelprado.es), of which Picasso was once director. It expanded with a new wing in 2007 and is now the largest museum in Spain, and home to some of the most significant artworks of all time – including Velázquez’s 1656 painting Las Meninas. The day we visited, “starchitect” Frank Gehry was among the crowd of visitors viewing the works by Goya and Rubens.

From the point of Picasso onwards, the Reina Sofía ( 2 www.museoreinasofia.es) picks up the art story. Guernica, perhaps his best- known work, is among the 20th-century masterpieces here. Outside, the towering Brushstroke sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein completes this temple to contemporary art. The inhouse coffee shop is also a hip destination in its own right.

The third of the city’s ‘big three’ galleries is the Thyssen-Bornemisza ( 3 www.museothyssen.org), another world leader, and home to great works from the 13th century onwards. Connect all three on a map with a pen and you’ll see Madrid’s golden triangle of art.

On a par with these is the mighty Teatro Real ( 4 www.teatro-real. es), one of the globe’s most elegant opera houses. When it comes to live music more generally, Madrid’s sprawl of great little venues with heady atmosphere, many of which double up as bars or clubs, is both its strength and its weakness. Bigger bands’ European tours often pass over Madrid in favour of a gig in Barcelona, for instance. But there is good live music to be found, and sometimes amid beautiful art-deco surrounds, at places such as Café Central ( 5 www.cafecentralmadrid.com). Hear improv jazz or join in yourself, if you dare, at the Sunday jam session. For more small music venues, see To The Bar on page 52.

Ava Gardner: Madrileña

With its opulent backdrops, easy-on- the-eye locals, strong spirits and all-night dancing, Madrid can bring out your dramatic side. It’s no wonder the city has long been a favourite with actors. Many of its art deco cocktail bars were haunts of the Hollywood studio stars of the 1940s and 1950s, and no one threw themselves into the Madrid lifestyle more passionately than the actress Ava Gardner.

From 1955, the star of movies such as The Killers and The Barefoot Contessa lived here for 12 years, learning the language and dancing flamenco with the locals. She gained a reputation as a passionate partygoer and, having split from husband Frank Sinatra, seduced the country’s premiere bullfighter, Luis Miguel Dominguin. As she put it: “I must have seen more sunrises than any other actress in the history of Hollywood.”

In 1968, with the city having made an indelible mark on her and vice versa, Gardner would flee – to escape a Spanish tax bill.

At the hotel

From Homely Hostels to five-star finery

MADRID IS RELATIVELY COMPACT, SO THE good news is that finding a hotel with a central location, from which you can walk to some of the city’s big attractions, is easier here than in many European capitals.

If a tight budget is your main concern and all you want is to crash out at a hostel that’s clean, cute and comfortable, you won’t struggle provided that you book far enough in advance.

Perhaps the best of the wallet-friendly options is Hostal Olga ( 6 doubles from €50, www.hostalolgamadrid.com), a two-star close to the Puerta del Sol. It has good-sized rooms with ensuites, and a vast spiral staircase in the entrance hall – a little bit of romance where there could so easily have been none. The nearby Hostal La Vera ( 7 doubles from €55, www.hostal-lavera.com) also has a good reputation for doing what it says on the tin, and will allow you to save your spending money for other things.

In another league, not too far geographically from either of the above, is Laura ( 8 apartments from €89, www.room-matehotels.com), a branch of the international chain Room Mate, whose hotels and “apart-hotels” are christened with a first name, just to keep things personable. Choose from one of 36 mini-apartments, all with wi-fi, flatscreen TVs and DVD players. There’s a teeny kitchen, in case you want to save money and knock up some tapas of your own before hitting the bars.

For a hotel you’ll want to hang out in, settle in at Hotel Urban ( 9 doubles from €150, www.derbyhotels.com) in the middle of town. This five-star has been making waves as a destination hotel for hip Madrileños as well as foreign visitors. Its Glass Bar – transparent of floor and chairs – is popular with well-heeled locals, and naturally the roof terrace comes into its own in the summer. Rooms are chic and contemporary, and each features a unique artwork in a glass case. Kick back on that leather chaise longue and admire your surroundings. It’s part of Spain’s Rusticae group (www.rusticae.es), which also offers the Tuscan Renaissance-styled Quinta de los Cedros ( 10 doubles from €108, www.quintadeloscedros.com) hotel across town.

Another of Madrid’s hotel superstars is Hospes ( 11 doubles from €189, www.hospes.com), affiliated with the well-regarded Design Hotels group. Walk into a reception decked out in white sofas and modernist chandeliers, then up to a suite that’s roomy and romantic, with an embellished headboard and a freestanding bathtub big enough to park a submarine in. There’s even an oriental-style relaxation garden, just off the lobby.

Write on

Madrid is a city that has nurtured great writers, and you may wish to write a few lines of your own while in town, whether it’s a postcard or epic poem. Make it easy for the muse to call on you by staying at a hotel with literary appeal. High on the list should be Hotel De Las Letras ( 12 www.hoteldelasletras.com), located in the city’s literary barrio, where the names of great authors adorn the streets. The decor is a winning blend of old world charm and contemporary luxury. The 1917 building’s period details, such as mosaics and carved stone figures, are complemented successfully by newer designer pieces such as Eames chairs.

Still not sure what to write? Take a trip to the bars of the nearby Gran Via to get your creative juices flowing, or take inspiration from the hotel’s large inhouse library, where you’re welcome to flop onto the sofas and browse the classics. You can also submit an original poem, to be published on the hotel’s website.

On the table

Why no one leaves Madrid hungry

WHO’D BE A BULL? FIGHTING THEM HAS gone out of fashion, but you’ll still see the beasts’ heads on the walls of some Madrid bars, and bull’s tail is served up as a regional delicacy at rustic eateries like El Fogón de Trifón ( 13 www.elfogondetrifon.com). The jovial owner/manager is a local legend and insists: “I don’t have a first name. I’m just Triffon!” For dessert, he recommends a traditional tarta de queso (cheesecake) that’s served drizzled with olive oil.

There’s traditional and then there’s Restaurante Botín ( 14 www.botin.es), the world’s oldest restaurant as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. This perennial tourist favourite opened in 1725 in the La Latina/Austrias neighbourhood. A long, low cave of a room, it’s a fun place to graze on tapas, unless you’re highly claustrophobic.

For something more contemporary – admittedly, everywhere’s more contemporary than Botín – head to uptown Oven 180 ( 15 www.oven180.com) for good food artfully presented in a design-conscious setting. Try the squash-stuffed ravioli or a dish built around fresh seafood of the day. Prices are fashionably high, mind.

If you’re veggie, try Al Natural ( 16 www.alnatural.biz), an eco- conscious eaterie that opened during the grunge years. “At that time, in 1994, there were about three vegetarian restaurants in Madrid,” says owner Jorge. “Now there are 30.” You can detox with a tofu salad, or get stuck into a hearty vegetarian lasagna or fresh vegetable pie.

Paco Patón is the manager of two hotel restaurants of note, Europa Decó at Hotel Urban (see At The Hotel) and the pop-arty East 47 at Villa Real ( 17 www.derbyhotels.com). The latter is close to the Prado museum, so perfect for refuelling after a hard day’s art-gazing. Like Oven 180, these put a contemporary twist on fresh, local produce.

For maximum bang for your buck, save some room for an authentic Mexican feast in the eye-poppingly colourful surrounds of La Panza Es Primero ( 18 www.lapanzaesprimero.com), a restaurant with good food, low prices and several locations throughout Madrid. Try the branch in Chueca. If you don’t fancy a sit-down meal at all, stop by Melo’s sandwich shop in Lavapiés 19 . It’s famous for zapatilla (“shoe”) sandwiches, named after the shape of the loaf they are cut from. The resemblance to a shoe isn’t uncanny to be honest, but maybe you need a couple of cervezas before you appreciate it. Choose your fresh fillings and see it made in front of you.

A final tip: you should know that Madrid’s best paella purveyor is La Barraca ( 20 www.labarraca.es), just behind the Gran Via.

Sweet like chocolate

Diets don’t really work in Madrid, so don’t bother – you didn’t come her to deprive yourself. With that established, treat yourself to some hot chocolate con churros. Churros, as you may know, are long, chunky ribbons of doughnut- like pastry, and the perfect partner to the dark, dense Spanish hot chocolate. Put a spoon in this stuff and it stays standing up. Traditionally, churros are thought of as a morning snack. Prefer croissants? Pah!

That’s nothing like enough calories to get the Spanish going at breakfast time.

For some years now churros have also been successfully soaking up the alcohol in the stomachs of homeward- bound pubbers and clubbers. Make a detour on your way home to bed and stop off at Chocolatería San Ginés 21 . It’s probably the most famous place to chomp on churros in Madrid, and its stays open all night. In what other city in the world can you get a 4am dessert fix, of such good quality, so easily? Sweet. ,

To the bar

From penthouses to biker bars

ANY CAPITAL CITY WORTH ITS SALT WILL have a decent spectrum of bars and clubs, but Madrid is a cut above – and internationally renowned for its nightlife.

Most bars are open all night, and walking between many of them is easy. That’s certainly true in the little winding streets of the pumping Chueca neighbourhood – a gay district that plenty of straight people also make a beeline for. The idea is to hop between places rather than stay glued to your bar stool. And we’ll bet that at some point you’ll end up dancing with the good-natured crowd in La Lupe 22 on Calle de Hortaleza.

The art-deco cocktail bars that opened in the late 1920s and early 1930s are one of the loveliest aspects of the Madrid nightlife scene. Frank Sinatra was among the crowd who used to frequent the famous Museo Chicote ( 23 www.museo-chicote.com), and local legend has it that a sozzled Ava Gardner would run out of here onto the Gran Via and pretend to be a bullfighter, waving her fur coat in front of oncoming vehicles. Chicote opened in 1931 and is a nice example of how the stars of Hollywood’s golden age once partied, but its cool has, well, cooled with time. Fair enough. It’s still worth seeing, and you can’t argue with the quality of the rum. For reasons that aren’t clear, a nearby bar called Del Diego 24 which was also beloved of Sophia Loren et al, is still rocking. The bar staff are gents, the crowd is sophisticated and beautiful, and the vintage decor is a treat. It’s a place to sip and chat rather than down shots and dance. Almost next door is a well-known drinking den named Cock 25 . Don’t leap to conclusions, it’s a sweet old lounge bar named after the humble rooster.

If you want to get a wider view of the city, take the elevator up to the Penthouse ( 26 www.memadrid.com), a swish bar belonging to the ME hotel on Plaza Santa Ana. In summer, this rooftop party spot – a few doors down from the hotel itself – is, quite literally, a breath of fresh air for a city with no beach. Either drink outside under the stars or at the stylish indoor bar where DJs spin house tunes. Line your stomach with some tasty, carb-heavy tapas, such as fried brie or prawns, and mingle with a dolled-up crowd of friendly twenty-somethings.

For something edgier, try celebrated local indie clubs Nasti ( 27 www.nasti.es) and Neu ( 28 www.neuclub.es) for live bands and weird haircuts. In a similar vein, don’t miss out on a night at the excellent El Perro ( 29 www.myspace.com/elperroclub). This one-time biker bar – the wall lights are from old Harleys – has been made more friendly and accessible by its dedicated new owners, without losing its cool. The mix of bands and DJs is eclectic, from electro to punk and northern soul.

Flamenco-a-go-go

It’s so celebrated it has become the stuff of lazy stereotyping, but flamenco is very much alive. Associated in the popular imagination with gypsy culture, the precise cultural origins of this distinctive dance (and music) are unclear. Yet if you’re at all curious – and even if you feel a bit touristy doing so – it’s definitely worth seeking out a show while in Madrid.

You’ll find flamenco on offer as part of a mish-mash of musical styles at many live jazz and jamming venues, but for the pure art form head to top spot Cardamomo ( 30 www.cardamomo.es). At this well-established flamenco joint close to Metro stop Sevilla you can grab a table for a short live show at about 9pm, then head out to the surrounding bars. A typical cast is one male and one female dancer, suitably toned and wild-eyed, backed by a cluster of guitarists and a cantaor (flamenco singer). The skilled, floor-pounding performance leaves the dancers – and audience – sweaty and exhilarated, and shouting “olé”.

Hit the shops

From market forces to footballers’ favourites

LIKE ITS RESIDENTS, MADRID’S SHOPPING opportunities are diverse. It’s a rite of passage to join the throng rummaging through the stalls of the famous flea market El Rastro 31 , the largest Sunday market in Europe. Among the sea of goods you can buy everything from a screen-printed T-shirt to an antique table, and most other objects under the sun. Or, as one local lady put it: “You really can buy absolutely anything here, from a kitten to a crossbow.” We’d strongly discourage you from purchasing either during your visit to Madrid, but you get the idea. Expect a high-volume soundtrack of dexterous busker-guitarists and indignant hagglers. If you’re not in town on a Sunday, it’s still worth checking out the surrounding area, which is dotted with characterful little antiques stores.

Uptown, in the Salamanca district, walk the length of the upmarket shopping streets like Serrano and Velázquez to find the local outposts of international brands like Gucci, Prada and Montblanc. This “golden mile” is a favourite stalking ground of Real Madrid football players, and would-be WAGs will also find more democratically priced stores like Spanish favourite Zara.

If a sporting physique is not your priority, load up on delicious artisan chocolates at Bombonerías Santa 32 www.chocolates-santa.com). Don’t worry, the high prices will stop you being able to eat as many as you’d like. While in the neighbourhood, also be sure to visit Agatha Ruiz de la Prada ( 33 www.agatharuizdelaprada.com), the eponymously named store of the popular local designer. She is well-known for her riotous colour palette, and in-store you’ll find a vast range of cute and colourful childrenswear, as well as plenty of clothes, accessories and homeware for big kids.

It’s also worth going out of your way to a colourful little boutique called Peseta ( 34 www.peseta.org), named after Spain’s former currency. Locals Laura Martínez del Pozo and Jaime Sevilla Moreno founded the store in 2005, and produce a winning line in textiles. A snazzy patterned messenger bag will set you back about ¤70, while an iPad case is ¤25. Should you have a limb in plaster, you can even buy a stylish patterned sling here. The Madrid-grown brand has collaborated with big name fashion players like Marc Jacobs, and is stocked by museum shops internationally. However, it retains a local focus and manufactures its goods in a co-op factory just south of Madrid. You can also purchase a fabulously useless woollen telephone, octopus, pizza or even woollen prawns here, made by a local artist who goes by the name Le Petit Paquebot.

triBall loyalty

Whatever your stripe, there are Madrid shopping opportunities for you, from the cool boutiques of Chueca to the fresh fish market of Cuatro Caminos. The newest district of all is triBall, an area north of the Gran Via. Previously overlooked as a run-down and seedy corner of the city, things began to change radically from 2008, as local merchants set about transforming about 50 locations into hip shops and arty venues. The name triBall is a New York- style portmanteau, a reference to the triangle of streets around Ballesta, one of the new area’s main shopping arteries. Just as Manhattan’s Tribeca is the “Triangle Below Canal Street”. The atmosphere here is still grungy, to a degree.

As for shops to check out? Browse the rails at bohemian boutique La Maison de la Lanterne Rouge ( 35 www.lamaisonspain.blogspot.com), seek out the skater-chic of Emiika Style 36 and get your graphic fix at Crisis Comics 37 . For more details on the area, visit www.triballmadrid.com

In the bag

Silly souvenirs to splash out on

1 / VIOLET SWEETS These small purple flowers are the traditional violet sweets of Madrid, for sale across town and sometimes free with a purchase at souvenir shops. Head to shops like La Violeta to purchase authentic candies made with violet essence (rather than flavouring). Free

2 / REAL MADRID FOOTBALL Real Madrid is officially the most successful football club of the 20th century. Get in on the action by watching a game at the Madrid stadium they own, the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, or by simply kicking you own Real Madrid football about. €15

3 / FLAMENCO FAN If you’ve spent a few days in Madrid, hopefully you’ll have had time to catch a flamenco show in full force. If all that fancy foot stamping has got you in the mood to give it a whirl yourself, with a flamenco fan like this you can put on a show when you get home. €10

4 / NOTEBOOK Madrid has some of the best art museums in the world, and with great museums come great museum shops for browsing afterwards. Pick up a souvenir like a book, bag or notebook. We bought this jotter from the Prado gallery. €3.50

5 / SPANISH BULL The multi-coloured mosaic bull is the Spanish souvenir to end all Spanish souvenirs. Even if you don’t really want one, we’re afraid it’s obligatory that you do make this purchase. You won’t be allowed to leave the country unless you’ve got one (probably). €15

Where it's at

Map and contacts

1 Prado 23 Calle Ruiz de Alarcón, tel: +34 91 330 2800

2 Reina Sofía 52 Santa Isabel, tel: +34 91 774 1000

3 Thyssen-Bornemisza 8 Paseo del Prado, tel: +34 91 369 0151

4 Teatro Real Plaza Isabel II, tel: +34 91 516 0660

5 Café Central 10 Plaza del Ángel, tel: +34 91 369 4143

6 Hostal Olga 13 Calle de Zorrilla, tel: +34 91 429 7887

7 Hostal La Vera 21 Calle de la Magdalena, tel: +34 91 369 1738

8 Room Mate Laura 3 Travesía de Trujillos, tel: +34 91 701 1670

9 Hotel Urban 34 Carrera de San Jerónimo, tel: +34 91 787

7770 / 10 Quinta de los Cedros 4 Calle de Allendesalazar, tel: +34 91 515 2200

11 Hospes 3 Plaza de la Independencia, tel: +34 91 432 2911

12 Hotel De Las Letras 11 Gran Via, tel: +34 91 523 7980

13 El Fogón de Trifón 144 Calle Ayala, tel: +34 91 402 3794

14 Restaurante Botín 17 Calle de los Cuchilleros, tel: +34 91 366 4217

15 Oven 180 32 Calle Lagasca, tel: +34 91 435 1898

16 Al Natural 11 Calle de Zorrilla, tel: +34 91 369 4709

17 East 47 10 Plaza de las Cortes, tel: +34 91 420 3767

18 La Panza Es Primero 33 Calle Libertad, tel: +34 91 521 7640

19 Melo’s 44 Calle del Ave María, tel: +34 91 527 5054

20 La Barraca 29 Calle de la Reina, tel: +34 91 532 7154

21 Chocolatería San Ginés 11 Calle del Arenal, tel: +34 91 365 6546

22 La Lupe 51 Calle de Hortaleza

23 Museo Chicote 12 Gran Via, tel: +34 91 532 6737

24 Del Diego 12 Calle de la Reina, tel: +34 91 523 3106

25 Cock 16 Calle de la Reina, tel: +34 91 532 2826

26 The Penthouse 14 Plaza de Santa Ana, tel: +34 91 701 6020

27 Nasti Club 33 Calle de San Vicente Ferrer, tel: +34 91 521 7605

28 Neu 100 Calle de Galileo

29 El Perro 15 Calle de la Puebla, tel: +34 91 521 0325

30 Cardamomo 15 Calle de Echegaray, tel: +34 91 369 0757

31 El Rastro Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores

32 Bombonerías Santa 56 Calle de Serrano, tel: +34 91 576 8646

33 Agatha Ruiz de la Prada 27 Calle de Serrano, tel: +34 91 319 0501

34 Peseta 9 Calle del Noviciado, tel: +34 91 521 1404

35 La Maison de la Lanterne Rouge 4 Calle de la Ballesta

36 Emiika Style 53 Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, tel: +34 91 310 7961 / 37 Crisis

Comics 28 Calle de la Luna, tel: +34 91 532 7885