15 December 11

Features

Lanzarote on The Ground

Chris Beanland on the appeal of an island of epic volcanic landscapes, innovative art and architecture, good food, and cracking nightlife. Photography by Tim White

GET THE VIBE

A TIMELESS BEAUTY

WITH ITS SURREALISTICALLY BEAUTIFUL volcanic landscapes, a vibrant nightlife scene, world-class architecture, gorgeous beaches and famously mild winters, there are many reasons to get on a plane to Lanzarote. The result is there’s no one type of visitor to the island – it’s a destination for everyone. Formula One driver Jenson Button heads here for winter training, while the likes of Spanish Prime Minister José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero and filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar come to holiday and be inspired.

Almodóvar likes to stay in the Gran Meliá Salinas hotel in Costa Teguise, designed in part by César Manrique, arguably Lanzarote’s most famous son. An artist and architect born on the island in 1919, Manrique took inspiration from his home’s otherworldy volcanic landscape, and was instrumental in developing many of its innovative visitor attractions. As he saw it: “Lanzarote is like an unframed, unmounted work of art.” Among my favourite examples of Manrique is the Mirador del Río café and restaurant, in the north of the island. It offers panoramic views of Lanzarote’s sculpted hillsides and its outlying islands.

The eerily beautiful environment is the result of the six continuous years of eruptions of the volcano on Lanzarote in the 1700s, which created the island’s various lava fields, mainly in the north. Why not take a walk on the wild side in Timanfaya National Park? In the south, you’ll find the swish marinas and beach resorts like Papagayo Beach (actually six connected sandy beaches). Another island favourite is Famara beach, with the 600m-high Risco de Famara cliffs in the background. A breeze from the Azores means this wild piece of coast is beloved of surfers.

When it comes to city life, the capital Arrecife is teeming with places to eat, drink and dance in style (read on for our favourites). But visitors can’t afford to miss the former capital of Teguise, either. Its historic buildings and old-world charm have a timeless appeal. However you choose to pass your time on Lanzarote, we don’t think you’ll ever forget it.

ON THE STREET

FROM MANRIQUE TO ALMODÓVAR

ONE OF THE FIRST PORTS OF CALL FOR many visitors to Lanzarote is the Jameos del Agua 1 , a grotto-like natural complex of connecting caves blasted out of the rock by the power of volcanoes. At its bottom lie pools of water inhabited by blind albino crabs. No one quite knows how the creatures got there.

Although a natural feature of the island, these caves were developed into a visitor attraction by Jesus Soto and Luis Morales in the 1960s, working from the plans of artist and architect César Manrique (see column, right). The development of the site into its present state took a couple of decades, and it’s well worth making the journey to the north of Lanzarote to enjoy the result.

This cultural complex within Jameos del Agua includes a museum dedicated to the volcanoes, Casa de los Volcanes, as well as a café, bar and restaurant. Every Thursday you can catch live music in these eerie but epic surrounds. Expect samba, calypso and South American flavours on the musical menu.

And just so you know, there’s one private pool here in which neither crabs nor the public are allowed – it’s reserved solely for the use of King Juan Carlos.

César Manrique was also the mastermind behind Lagomar 2 (www.lag-o-mar.com), a house he built for the actor Omar Sharif in the 1970s. The urban legend goes that Sharif lost the place on a bet during a disastrous game of cards, and never returned to Lanzarote. A heady 1970s aesthetic is palpable in this cliffside house’s brilliantly kitsch, faded grandeur. A new museum opened here in 2011 featuring exhibitions about the history of the house and Manrique himself, as well as a small art collection. It’s also possible to stay the night here in the guesthouse – see the website for details.

However, it’s not only architects and artists who have been inspired by the landscape of Lanzarote. In the late 1990s director Pedro Almodóvar took a photograph of El Golfo beach 3 (actually an eroded volcanic crater rather than a beach in the usual sense). When it was developed he noticed tiny figures in the background: a couple tightly embracing. Pondering what their story might have been, he dreamed up the 2009 movie Broken Embraces. Visit yourself to see why this location captured his imagination.

For visual art, such as photography, head to the CIC 4 , or Centro Insular de Cultura El Almacén. A quality gallery space with a hip bar, it’s one of this little island’s many cultural assets.

Meet Manrique

Born in 1919 in Arrecife, César Manrique would eventually establish himself as the foremost artist and architect on Lanzarote. His fame never spread as far as that of his contemporaries like Picasso and Miró, but when you see his work you’ll immediately be struck by his vision and how ahead of his time he was.

His famous visitor centre at Mirador del Río 5 (www.cesarmanrique.com/ arquitectura_e.htm) blends effortlessly into the landscape, yet at the same time evokes the feeling of being on a space station.

For the most complete view of the man and his work head to the brilliant museum at Fundación César Manrique 6 (www.fcmanrique.org), which also features work by masters like Picasso. Oh, and look out for the Manrique- designed windmills on traffic roundabouts across the island.

AT THE HOTEL

SEA VIEWS AND SPAS

FROM B&BS TO BOUTIQUE FINCAS AND swanky coastal resorts, Lanzarote has all kinds of accommodation open all-year round. In the capital the pick of the bunch is the Arrecife Gran Hotel 7 (www.arrecifehoteles.com).

It’s the tallest building on the entire island, which means that you get some uncommonly good views of the city and the sea from the brand new, very swish rooftop pool terrace. It’s bang in the middle of town and handy for all of Arrecife’s attractions. Doubles from €102.

Finca de Las Salinas 8 (www.fincasalinas. com) in the village of Yaiza is a wholly different proposition. This calm rural retreat is the former mansion of an 18th-century pharmacist, now one of Lanzarote’s premier boutique bolt-holes. A spa offering a range of treatments, and a well-regarded restaurant complete the package. Doubles from €90.

In the nearby village of Uga, Casa el Morro 9 (www.casaelmorrolanzarote.com) is another posh getaway, composed of just a handful of suites in an historic building. It’s decorated in an Eastern style and furnished with Indonesian teak furniture. If you want to go walking in Timanfaya National Park, it’s right on your doorstep here. Sun terraces and a thoroughly glamorous feel complete the picture. Doubles from €111.

With glorious sea views, the VIK Hotel San Antonio in Puerto del Carmen 10 (www.vikhotels.com) is an ideal choice for a family break. There’s a massive pool, tropical gardens and all the amenities of a big hotel. Some special offers mean that if you’re lucky rooms can start from about €40 per person per night.

Another solid choice for beach bums who want to stay somewhere with class is the Gran Meliá Salinas 11 (www.gran-melia-salinas.com), part of the upmarket Spanish Sol Meliá chain. In fact, this is the only five-star luxury beachfront resort on Lanzarote, boasting all kinds of facilities and a beautiful location on Costa Teguise. Doubles from €143.

For something of a one-off, El Aljibe 12 (www.rural-villas.com) is a treat. This former farm water tower has been converted into an astonishing luxury villa for two, with a private pool and slightly gothic touches to the interiors. You’re in the middle of nowhere, so feel free to go for a stroll into the unknown. From €160.

Back in Arrecife, Hotel Lancelot 13 (www.hotellancelot.com) is right in the centre of the action for some capital thrills, and right opposite the beach. Top service and free wi-fi in all the rooms mark this one out as a great-value choice. Doubles from €80.

Keeping it eco-friendly

Lanzarote boasts Unesco Biosphere Reserve status, as an entire island. And if it’s eco-friendly accommodation you want then the most famous and possibly best of the bunch is Finca de Arrieta 14 (www.lanzaroteretreats. com). This complex was set up by British pair Tila and Michelle Braddock and includes the whole gamut of accomodation options, from basic to luxury. You get to choose from a series of yurts, cottages and villas on the site, which is just 300m from the beach. But the key to the whole project is sustainability. Staying here gives new meaning to being “off grid”. You literally are, because all the electricity comes from renewable on-site sources, like wind turbines. The shared swimming pool is solar-heated and the shop is unmanned and of the honesty variety.

ON THE TABLE

SOMETHING FOR EVERY PALATE

IT’S A DECADE SINCE SOUTH YORKSHIRE chef Darren Spurr – who trained under Marco Pierre White – opened his first restaurant on the island, and he continues to go from strength to strength. Spurr’s current restaurant is La Cabaña 15 (www.lacabanamacher.com) in the pretty inland village of Macher, and it’s one of the finest places to eat in Lanzarote. Signature dishes include seared scallops with Iberico ham and celeriac purée, and the excellent desserts are all homemade.

La Bocaina 16 (www.labocainarestaurant. com) is another fine dining establishment run by expats. This time it’s Paul and Nina Ecob, who left the East Midlands for sunnier climes and pitched up in Lanzarote. Their restaurant in Playa Blanca serves up a wide selection of local fish as well as a mouth-watering whole shoulder of lamb, big enough for two to share and braised in a rich sauce of chorizo, tomatoes, peppers and olives. You’ll be crawling out of this place if you have dessert too, but you won’t regret it.

Emma’s Cantina Mexicana 17 (www.emmascantina.com) in Puerto del Carmen is the place for an informal family meal. Top notch food sets this place apart from other Tex-Mex purveyors on the island because the cooking style is authentically Mexican. Mole, chimichanga and fajitas are all as lip-smacking as they should be. The dining room feels relaxed and casual, and in this old-town location you feel sequestered away.

Casa Cabaña 18 (www.casacabanalanzarote.co.uk) has handsome wood-panelled rooms and prides itself on a friendly atmosphere. The serving staff, owners and even the chefs seem to be constantly stopping to chat to customers. We don’t know how they get any work done, but we’re not complaining. The menu is hearty and meaty, with mains including roast rack of lamb, fillet steak and tournedos Rossini (fillet of beef wrapped in bacon and served with bacon, topped with pâté). But there’s a vegetarian option too.

Up in picturesque and classy Yaiza, Amura 19 (www.restauranteamura.com) is a swish establishment that gets a nod in the Spanish edition of the Michelin guide. No wonder: everything is first- rate here, although the seafood is probably what they do best. Try tuna fillet served with tomato confit and a balsamic reduction, or a seafood risotto. Extravagant desserts include liquid chocolate served with Tahitian vanilla ice cream.

Vegetarian virtues

Environmentally conscious Lanzarote is just the place for diners who care passionately about how their food is sourced, such as vegetarians. Despite not being a very Spanish tradition, vegetarianism is on the up here, with more veggie options in the restaurants than ever.

Lanzarote now has a fully vegetarian and vegan restaurant. Blooming Cactus 20 (www.bloomingcactus. co.uk) in Puerto del Carmen dishes up an international menu featuring everything from tabbouleh to tzatziki and from dhal to dips.

And of course there’s nothing to stop veggies tucking into what is probably Lanzarote’s most famous traditional dish, papas arrugadas, or “wrinkly potatoes” as the Brits call them. These boiled then baked potatoes are served with the local mojo sauce. No dead animals required!

TO THE BAR

TAPAS AND TECHNO

FROM TRADITIONAL TAPAS BARS TO techno-fuelled nightspots, Lanzarote has more than enough places to keep you busy once the sun goes down. A great place to start off any evening is Museo del Vino & Bar Pintxo Taverna 21 in Arrecife, which is a fantastic place for some papas bravas teamed with a glass of local wine.

The Lanzarote wine selection here is top notch – try before you buy and sample a copita of Malvasia or La Geria wine. The vines that yield this delicious stuff are grown in planting enclosures hacked out of the unforgiving lunar landscape of Lanzarote’s interior.

Wax Sports Bar 22 (www.waxbars.com) is a place for a pint as the evening starts to hot up. There’s usually a DJ on the decks, and major sporting events are screened here. You can also mess about with some gaming on the Nintendo Wii or, if you have willpower of steel, even try to get some work done on your laptop thanks to the free wi-fi. A lot of British travellers come here, lured by the decor and atmosphere that reminds you of a cool city centre bar in Liverpool or Leeds.

Much of Arrecife’s nightlife takes place within the confines of Calle José Antonio, but for something a little more low-key, step away and over to Bar Andalucía 23 . You can sink some excellent cocktails and enjoy sherries from Jerez at this (you guessed it) Andalucía-themed bar. The tapas here – including quality chorizo and stuffed pimiento peppers – really hits the spot.

As for larger clubs, 928 24 (www.danceclub928.com) is one of the key nightlife venues on the island. DJs at this straight-up palace have monikers like Coco Go Loco and Lizzie Curious, and you can expect them to deliver generous servings of house, trance, disco and maybe a side order of techno as the night wears on.

Atop the Arrecife Gran Hotel is the watering hole with perhaps the best views over Lanzarote. Star’s City 25 (www.arrecifehoteles.com) is frequented by some of its most gorgeous locals, and the panoramic views of the island are complemented by a quality cocktail menu. Join the beautiful people here for a sundowner, and stay until 2am. DJs are always on hand with some chilled grooves and jazzy beats.

One final beautiful little bar you won’t want to miss is La Ermita 26 (www.cafelaermita.com) in Tías. The short wine list is high on quality but not on price – you can drink local Malvasia, Rioja, Ribera del Duero and many other Spanish tipples. Vintage advertisements for beer and soda adorn the walls, and there’s a lovely air of faded grandeur to it all.

Have a gay old time

These days Lanzarote has a small but thriving gay and lesbian scene. Bars are increasingly becoming “officially” gay-friendly, while every year the small but perfectly formed Pride event, in July, attracts all kinds of different party people.

There’s no special gay village on the island and LGBT travellers will have to do a bit of travelling between venues, but it’s all worth it. Part of the appeal of Puerta Verde 27 – a neat little bar up in the north of the island – is the beautiful countryside you see on the way there. Owners Stuart and Javier put on drag nights and keep things friendly and fun.

Punto 28 (www.puntolanzarote.com) is the biggest gay club on the island and pumps out disco, pop and Euro-house tunes. There’s often live music, too, and plenty of themed parties.

HIT THE SHOPS

FOR A BARGAIN OR A BLOW-OUT

YOU CAN BE SURE OF A SHOPPING FRENZY in Lanzarote. From little boutiques to vast markets, there’s a bit of everything.

Spanish fashion brands have taken European high streets by storm in recent years and no doubt plenty of us won’t be able to get enough of the shopping action at Centro Comercial Biosfera Plaza 29 in Puerto del Carmen. This slick, contemporary shopping centre is flooded with light, features open piazzas, sea views and clean, modernist lines. Not that shopaholics will really care about that. They’ll be more interested in seeking out the stock of big brands like Blanco, Bershka, Bench., Mango and Zara, smelling scents in the perfume superstore or hitting the smaller independent fashion boutiques. Added extras include a hairdresser’s and a cute children’s play area.

Back in the capital, the main drag for flexing your credit card is Calle Leon y Castillo. There are plenty of smaller fashion stores and gift shops dotted around the side streets too, and in the middle of it all is a street market selling everything from handmade lace to aloe vera.

For a more exclusive offering, there’s really only one place to head to. Puerto Calero 30 (www.puertocalero.com) is a modern marina where the big yachts, and their owners with bigger wallets, pull up on tours around the Canary Islands. Thus the shops appeal to that mix of flash and funky that’s epitomised by the cable knit jumper and aviators look. You’ll find boutiques from international brands like Gant, Armani, DKNY, Helly Hansen and Tommy Hilfiger. But there’s also some Spanish flavour to the shopping. Check out Terali Shoes, Custo Barcelona, Emare and Francesco Biasia. After a day’s retail therapy here you can relax in one of the many bars, restaurants and cafés overlooking the bobbing boats. Cat Cafe on Paseo Maritimo is our favourite.

You’ve got to eat while you’re here, so why not sample the Lanzarote food shopping experience? For a true taste of the island and what locals eat during a family cena, head to the Centro Comercial Arrecife mall 31 (www.mercasa.es/centros_comerciales/arrecife). There are plenty of ways to fill your belly at its food shops and cafés, but perhaps our favourite is the covered market packed with an array of colourful tropical fruit, huge odd-looking fish from the depths of the Atlantic and more. Get yourself an education in how a Canarian madre or padre stocks up on produce to feed a hungry brood. Tourists rarely seem to come here and you feel like you’re sneaking into a secret world of excellent local food at low prices. This is the perfect place for sourcing picnic supplies. Our final tip is to seek out some local goat’s cheese while you’re here – it’s absolutely fantastic.

Market share

As with almost everywhere in Spain, markets are an enduring part of the retail culture of Lanzarote. If it’s handicrafts or souvenirs you’re after then there are three markets you should definitely hit.

Teguise Market 32 takes place every Sunday in the centre of the pretty inland town of Teguise, which was Lanzarote’s capital up to the mid-1800s, when Arrecife stole the title away. Dolls, furniture, vintage clothes and nick-nacks abound on the over 100 stalls.

In the capital, Saturday is the day for the diverse Arrecife Market 33 , which finishes at 1pm. We picked up a painting by a local artist here.

Playa Blanca’s newer market on Wednesdays at the swanky Marina Rubicón 34 (www.marinarubicon.com) offers olivine jewellery, linens and anything and everything containing aloe vera. Look out for the limoncello stall too.

IN THE BAG

OUR FAVOURITE SOUVENIRS

1 / LANZA LAVA It says on the bag that you can eat this, and when I asked the woman in the shop she nodded and said “Sí ” with total conviction. So maybe try serving up this edible lava from Timanfaya at your next dinner party? €4

2 / MANRIQUE BOOK This great guide to the big man’s buildings is packed with facts and photos. Have a read and you’re sure to want to set off exploring his architectural legacy. We bought this from the Fundación César Manrique’s gift shop. €7

3 / PESETA WHISTLE Why not make beautiful music (well, OK, you can make some loud, shrill noise at the very least) with a cute little peseta whistle like this one? Available on market stalls throughout the island. Buy one and get practising. €8

4 / TRINKET BOX This Lanzarote-shaped trinket box is made from local volcanic rock. It’s just the ticket for storing jewellery, keys and other bits and bobs. This was another market stall find, which we picked up in the capital, Arrecife. €8

5 / ALMOGROTE GOMERO What’s this? It’s cheese spread, but better – Canary Islands style! Flavoured with garlic and red pepper, it comes swimming in a jar of vegetable oil. Spread it on your toast when you’re back home, as a reminder of your trip. €2.60

WHERE IT’S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Jameos del Agua Carretera Arrieta, Orzola, tel: +34 928 848020 / 2 Lagomar Calle Los Loros, Teguise, tel: +34 928 845665 / 3 El Golfo beach / 4 CIC El Almacén 33 Calle José Betancort, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 815298 / 5 Mirador del Río Carretera del Norte, Haria, tel: +34 928 526548 / 6 Fundación César Manrique Taro de Tahíche, near Teguise, tel: +34 928 843138 / 7 Arrecife Gran Hotel Parque Islas Canarias, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 800000 / 8 Finca de Las Salinas Calle La Cuest, Yaiza, tel: 34 928 830325 / 9 Casa el Morro 1 Calle El Morro de Uga, Uga, tel: +34 928 830392 / 10 VIK Hotel San Antonio Avda. de Las Playas, Puerto del Carmen, tel: + 34 928 514200 / 11 Gran Meliá Salinas Avda de Islas Canarias, Salinas, tel: +34 902 144440 / 12 El Aljibe Los Valles, Teguise, tel: +34 619 231904 / 13 Hotel Lancelot Avda. Mancomunidad, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 805099 / 14 Finca de Arrieta Arrieta, tel: +34 928 848630 / 15 La Cabaña LZ-2, Macher, tel: +34 650 685 662 / 16 La Bocaina Calle El Varadero, Playa Blanca, tel: +34 928 518388 / 17 Emma’s Cantina Mexicana Calle Teide, Puerto del Carmen, tel: +34 928 514154 / 18 Casa Cabaña Calle Teide, Puerto del Carmen, tel: +34 626 724 713 / 19 Amura Urbanización Puerto Calero, Yaiza, tel: +34 928 513181 / 20 Blooming Cactus Calle del Teide, Puerto del Carmen, tel: +34 608 293 873 / 21 Museo del Vino & Bar Pintxo Taverna 8 Calle Garcia de Hita, Arrecife tel: +34 928 806344 / 22 Wax Sports Bar Centro Commercial Papagyo, Playa Blanca, tel: +34 928 519481 / 23 Bar Andalucía 5 Calle Luis Martin, Arrecife, tel: +34 686 608 269 / 24 928 Avda de Las Playas, Puerto del Carmen / 25 Star’s City Parque Islas Canarias, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 800000 / 26 La Ermita Avda. Central, Tías, tel: +34 928 524076 / 27 Puerta Verde Calle Fajardo, Haria, tel: +34 928 835373 / 28 Punto Centro Atlántico, Puerto del Carmen, tel: +34 662 428 565 / 29 Centro Comercial Biosfera Plaza Avda Juan Carlos, Puerto del Carmen, tel: +34 928 515320 / 30 Puerto Calero Urbanización Puerto Calero, Yaiza, tel: +34 928 510850 / 31 Centro Comercial Arrecife Avda. Medular, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 815260 / 32 Teguise Market Centre of Teguise / 33 Arrecife Market Plaza San Gines, Arrecife, tel: +34 928 811860 / 34 Marina Rubicón Playa Blanca, tel: +34 928 519018