21 July 09

Island focus

Island focus Ibiza

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Ryanair Magazine editor Ramsay Short spends a few days traversing the stunning Balearic isle that is Ibiza

ISLAND SOUL IBIZA
There are so many ways to "do" Ibiza, and everyone on (and off) the island – from clubber to yogic spiritualist – will eagerly tell you their idea of the best way to spend a break on what is arguably the most beautiful jewel in the Mediterranean.

Over an impressive lunch at Sands restaurant and beach bar (see 17 on map), one such islander – French-born Alexandra Pascual, resident local fixer and Sands manager – tells me what her ideal day would be like. “Wake up to have a breakfast at Hotel Es Vive (see 4 on map), then cruise down to Sands for a wonderful lazy day on the beach listening to top grooves, finishing off at night with drinks at the Base Bar (see 19 on map) with friends, and then off to a club to dance the night away! Maybe Cocoon on Mondays at Amnesia (Ctra. Ibiza a San Antonio km 5, tel: +34 971 198 041, www.amnesia-ibiza.com) and Wonderland on Fridays with Pete Tong and friends at Eden (Salvador Espriu, San Antonio, tel: +34 971 803 240, www.edenibiza.com).”

And if an incredible party beach vibe and hip urban boutique hotel are what you’re looking for then Sands and Es Vive at Playa d’en Bossa are where it’s all to be found. Girls are all topless, bronzed and beautiful, boys equally buff and come from all around the world; the sand stretches here for a couple of kilometres from the southern tip of the island to Ibiza town with its imposing fortress city of Dalt Vila, and the views of Ibiza’s sister isle of Formentera are simply magical.

Indeed for me, a virgin visitor to Ibiza put off for years by the rather depressing image of sunburnt northern European teenagers off their heads on booze and drugs, and bad reality TV documentaries depicting an island of super-clubs and D-list celebrities, the discovery of Ibiza was a revelation. And Alexandra’s recommendations for a sultry summer day and night proved spot on. Another extremely hip beach bar and restaurant at Playa d’en Bossa is Nassau Beach Club (see 16 on map), run by German entrepreneur Christian Braun – who also owns the relaxed Residencia Casa Munich (see 2 on map). Nassau is really for the gorgeous crowd, but don’t let that put you off. The cocktails are spectacular and the service top notch – if you want St Tropez-style relaxation you can’t go wrong here. Stay nearby at the large Hotel Garbi (see 3 on map), just down the beach for a modernist take on sleeping, with spacious clean rooms and a bar that stays open all night. And for a more quiet evening, grab a bite at the impressive Shardana (18 C/ Argelagues, Playa d’en Bossa, tel: +34 971 306 784), an Asian-Italian restaurant and lounge bar.

One of the best things about the Playa d’en Bossa side of the island is that it’s just a short walk along the beach or quick ferry hop to Ibiza town, or Eivissa as it’s known in Catalan. Walking around what is one of Europe’s oldest cities – it was founded in 654BC by the Carthaginians, and is home to 40,000 residents today, a third of the island’s population – you get a real sense of history and a taste of the soul of the locals. The old walled city of Dalt Vila – a Unesco World Heritage Site – towers above the rooftops of the lower town, and is all tiny, labyrinthine cobbled streets and narrow houses. It’s protected by seven bastions and at the highest point stands the cathedral, and just below the incredibly beautiful and luxurious Mirador de Dalt Villa (see 5 on map), which is well worth a stay for an inspiring cultural experience in Ibiza.

At the main entrance to the fortress is the romantic and charming Mercado Viejo, a square featuring a vegetable market, lovely cafés, a fabulous tapas place, and bar La Bodega (see 15 on map) – not to be missed. And if you fancy a tattoo inspired by your trip, just cross the plaza to Inkadelic (see 9 on map), where proprietor Neil Ahern has inked the likes of Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.

One thing you must not do on an Ibiza trip however is neglect the rest of the island, and much of its magnificent beauty can only be enjoyed by hiring a car. Try Hertz at the airport, or for something a little bit special check out Icon Cars (www.iconibiza.com), which among other vehicles can provide you with a chauffeur-driven Hummer! For an intense clubbing experience, hit San Antonio, perhaps at the ultra-hip Miss Moneypenny’s Friday night at the cool new BoHo club (Aveda de Portmany, Lod Bojos Piscis Park, San Antonio). And seek out some of the more remote beaches, incredible restaurants in the countryside and along the coast, and the beautiful eco-friendly spa hotels that truly are the most relaxing places to stay. The best one for my money is Atzaro (see 1 on map). Almost in the centre of the island, this hidden gem comprises lush villas, an incredible spa and an exquisite gourmet restaurant. With music nights and fashion events and it’s own line in clothing you could quite easily spend your whole trip here.

For incredible beaches, head to Cala Salada on the road from San Antonio to Santa Agnes in the north-west of the island. Or drive through the famous salt lakes at Las Salinas National Park to find an almost deserted pebbly shore and lovely sea, with a single restaurant, Cap des Falco, next to a rock wall that changes colour as the sun sets. Then there’s my favourite, Aguas Blancas in the north-east, where the sea shimmers a perfect blue in the midday heat, the nudists go wild in one corner and Brit expat Justin Mallet serves up incredible fresh fish dishes at his laid-back and unpretentious restaurant Cima del Mar (see 13 on map).

Other must-eat-at restaurants include Aura (see 11 on map) – an oriental harem-style place that hosts incredible parties with top DJs; the Cardamom Club (see 12 on map) for truly wonderful Indian eats in an old finca (cottage) and vine-covered garden; and the wholly authentic El Bigote (the moustache) aka Juan Ferrer, where the 80-year-old proprietor cooks up whatever he and his family catch that day – but be warned, no reservations are allowed (Cala Mastella, near San Carlos).

For even more Ibicencan authenticity, drive to San Carlos and stop off for a coffee or beer at Bar Anita (see 20 on map), a hangout for the island’s artists and writers, then stroll up to excellently preserved 17th-century Finca Ca n’Andreu across the road, with its traditional architecture and interiors. You can also take a mini-train there (www.trenturisticoibiza.com).

Perhaps the best way to end an Ibicencan jaunt is with a boat trip. Captain Lenny has been running his charter company (tel: +34 616 422 978, www.theboatchartercompany.com) for over 20 years, and I spent a magical day with him on the water in the perfect blue bays of Formentera. For a faster ride, try a speedboat from AtzaroNautica (tel: +34 689 008 123, www.atzaronautica.com) to Tagomago, and have a skinny dip in a secluded inlet – there’s nothing quite like it, and there’s nowhere quite like Ibiza.

Island Cents Ibiza
1. KEFIR DE CABRA
This fermented milk drink/yoghurt is a lovely little taste of the island and we purchased this from the great-value-for-money Can Caus restaurant in Santa Gertrudis, also famous for its homemade sausages. Best of all the kéfir comes from the milk of the restaurant’s own herd of goats kept out back. €1.50

2. IBIZA SALT
At the south-westerly tip of Ibiza lies the national park of Las Salinas and its incredible salt lakes, and you shouldn’t return home without a jar of the incredibly potent, melt-in-your-mouth sea salt. I bought this from a little market stall in Plaza Mercado, and don’t think I’ll eat table salt ever again! €7

3. DECORATIVE WALL LIZARD
The symbol of Ibiza is the lizard, and in particular a species called the Ibiza Wall Lizard. It’s not surprising considering how ubiquitous the creatures are, so if you fancy a bit of the island back home just bring one of these with you and stick it up in the garden. €11.40

4. CAFE CARICATURE
Hang out in any number of local cafés in Ibiza town and you may find a strange-looking bearded artist peering at you drawing – but only if you cleverly find an attractive girl at another table to sit next to! Pay whatever you feel it’s worth or nothing at all – specially if he messes up your chances. Grr... €5

5. SILVER FLOWER MOTIF RING
Silver jewellery is popular among islanders and visitors alike, especially the hippy crowd who frequent the Saturday market at Las Dalias. We bought this ring from one of the numerous stalls that line Ibiza town’s port every summer evening from about 9pm. The perfect island gift. €20

6. HIERBAS
Pronounced yerra-bus, “hierbas” is a liqueur synonymous with Ibiza and its people and has been around for over 200 years. Its most distinctive flavour is aniseed, but it can include up to 18 island plants, such as rosemary and thyme. You can drink it after a meal as a digestif, and a top-end bottle will cost you. €25

7. FLORAL TEA
Ibiza has an incredible range of natural grasses, herbs and flowers, so no wonder the natives use these to concoct tea – and alcohol (see the bottle of hierbas, number 6). This blend includes orange blossom, rose petals, camomile and rosemary among other island plants. €5

8. LOCAL MAGAZINES
If you want to know what’s on, who’s who and where to go in Ibiza, you need one of these two. The extremely hip Pacha magazine can be found free at most cafés, bars and hotels. Less hip but wholly informative is Ibiza NOW, available at any tabac for a mere €4.50. www.pacha.com, www.ibizaa-z.com

9. NASSAU CDS
The coolest beach bar by far on Playa d’en Bossa near Ibiza town offers a splendid mix of DJs to entertain the beautiful people throughout the summer. Take home these double-disk Volume 1 and Volume 2 CDs – mixed by resident DJ Zappi and collaborators – to dance around your bedroom. €20 www.nassaubeachclub.com

ISLAND LIVES IBIZA
“I’ve been living here for over 10 years and there’s nothing like it. The sun, the sea, the sand and the multicultural nature of Ibiza – plus the fact that it’s pretty much two-and-a-half hours away maximum on a direct flight from anywhere in Europe – means it’s totally possible to come here and live the dream.

“Even now with the economic crisis the beaches are packed, the hotels are jammed, Ibiza is as alive as ever. But I’m not surprised. The place is amazing. Five years ago people came here and literally went out to clubs every single night. That was what it was about. But Ibiza is more than just clubbing, it’s about a change of rhythm, and now in my business I’m noticing that clients are interested in a couple of nights clubbing – let’s say Wonderland on a Friday and maybe Pacha on a Wednesday or Space on a Sunday – and the rest of the time they want to spend at the beach or in some of the fabulous restaurants on the island.

“Because it’s so easily accessible if you hire a car – at Icon Cars we can sort out Hummers – you can travel all over Ibiza to lovely little towns like Santa Gertrudis and almost-deserted beaches like Aguas Blancas away from the party areas like San Antonio. So there’s definitely a change afoot here, with even the younger kids coming to relax and go on yoga retreats above and beyond the clubbing.

“The islanders are some of the friendliest people in the world, there’s a vibrant cultural life and rich history – and families are more than welcome. We now have the Ibiza International Film Festival every year and Ibiza International Music Summit, which are really building the island in a way that does not just involve clubbing. I’m also finding more people want to take a boat out for the day, go to Formentera and basically feel like superstars – and the thing is, it won’t cost the world.

ISLAND MAP IBIZA

Hotels
1. ATZARO
Ctra San Juan, km 15, San Lorenzo,
tel: +34 971 338 838,
www.atzaro.com

2. RESIDENCIA CASA MUNICH
13 C/ Migjorn Gran, Las Salinas,
tel: +34 971 396 535,
http://new.casamunich.com/en

3. HOTEL GARBI
5 C/ de Murtra, Playa d’en Bossa.
tel: +34 971 300 007,
www.hotelgarbi-ibiza.com

4. HOTEL ES VIVE
8 C/ Carlos Roman Ferrer, Figueretas,
tel: +34 971 301 902,
www.hotelesvive.com

5. MIRADOR DE DALT VILA
4 Plaza de Espana, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 303 045,
www.hotelmiradoribiza.com

Culture/Shops
6. KURRU KURRU
6 Plaza del Parque, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 399 175,
www.kurrukurru.com

7. REVOLVER
1 Calle Bisbe Azara, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 318 939,
www.revolveribiza.com

8. CA N’ANDREU THE OLD FINCA
Ctra Cala Llenya behind the Font de Peralta, San Carlos,

9. INKADELIC
10 Plaza Mercado Viejo, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 192 985

10. HIPPY MARKET
Las Dalias, San Carlos

Restaurants
11. AURA
Ctra San Juan, km 13.5, San Lorenzo,
tel: +34 971 325 356,
www.auraibiza.com

12. CARDAMOM CLUB
10 C/ de la Senia Des Mallorqui, Santa Eularia,
tel: +34 971 330 017

13. CIMA DEL MAR
Aguas Blancas beach, San Carlos,
tel: +34 971 335 023

14. ES CALIU
Ctra San Juan, km 10.8, Santa Eularia,
tel: +34 971 325 075,
www.escaliuibiza.com

15. LA BODEGA
Calle Bisbe Torres, 2 Mayans, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 192 740

Bars
16. NASSAU BEACH CLUB
Ctra Playa d’en Bossa,
tel: +34 971 396 714,
www.nassaubeachclub.com

17. SANDS
4 Ctra Playa d’en Bossa, near Hotel D,
tel: +34 971 396 849

18. SAVANNAH
Calle Balanzat 38, San Antonio,
tel: +34 971 348 031,
www.savannahibiza.com

19. BASE BAR
16 Calle Garilo, Ibiza,
tel: +34 971 131 786

20. BAR ANITA
Ctra Cala Llenya, opposite Peralta church, San Carlos,
tel: +34 971 335 090