Horses

Ride off into the sunset

The true way to capture the jaw-dropping beauty of Denmark’s Rømø is by Icelandic horse, says Kathy Carter, who finds their spirit as enduring as the island itself

THE chances are, you won’t have heard of Rømø. One of the Wadden Sea islands lying off the west coast of Jutland in Denmark, it’s a rather remote spot, boasting long stretches of flat, clean beaches, windswept sand dunes and only 850 inhabitants to stroll along them.

For a get-away-from-it-all holiday in Europe, you can’t do much better than this. At just 130km2, Rømø offers the opportunity to step back in time, with quaint, sod-roofed cottages and colourful local traditions. The island is connected to the mainland via a causeway, and on the way you pass through Denmark’s oldest and best-preserved town, Ribe, which dates back to 700AD.

With more than 500 species of animal life, Rømø is also a nature lovers’ dream all year round. In spring, lambs frolic in green fields and birds fly home from their holidays; in summer, seals bask; and in autumn and winter, the beaches create a reflective, panoramic vista, with specks of amber washed up on the shores for good photographic measure. It is truly idyllic.

But one of the best creatures I found on Rømø isn’t native to the island at all. The Icelandic horse comes, unsurprisingly, from Iceland and was originally brought over

by horse lover and proprietor of the Kommandørgården hotel complex Therese Thøgersen. It was 1990 and Thøgersen, who had just taken over the family-owned hotel, had an epiphany.

“I went to Iceland on a riding trip and fell in love with these willing, strong, furry horses,” she explains.

She began importing specially selected Icelandic steeds, because their generous temperament made them a pleasure to ride. Today, there are 80 horses to choose from and riding holidays on the island have been growing in popularity – because of both the ease of getting there and the idea that this type of holiday is not just for the experienced rider.

After collecting guests from Esbjerg airport and driving them the 40 minutes to the hotel, staff display some traditional Scandinavian hospitality. Thøgersen and her team are rightly proud of the service provided, as well as the food, which includes locally produced, predominantly organic fare. There is a warm and friendly atmosphere and I instantly felt like one of the family.

The accommodation at the complex includes a choice of well-equipped apartments, cabins or rooms. It also boasts a state-of-theart wellness centre and spa. So, unlike some riding holidays, you won’t end up slumming it beneath the stars.

While great food and practical facilities play a big part in any riding trip, the horses are really what it’s all about. All levels are catered at the centre, and the choice of horses on offer can even leave one feeling “over-horsed”, according to Thøgersen.

“We always divide guests into two groups – beginners and experienced riders – and we never ride faster than the weakest rider,” she says. Even for the experienced rider, Icelandic horses provide something very special indeed.

Their roots can be traced back to about 865AD, when the first pioneers settled in Iceland. Although these horses on average stand about 13 hands high (about 1.3m), don’t let their diminutive stature fool you – they are incredibly strong and can carry a third of their weight, which averages 363kg.

Once you’re in the saddle, the riding itself is something you won’t forget. Most breeds have four gaits – ways of running or walking. Icelandic horses are, however, five-gaited, with the walk, trot, canter, tölt and pace. On this trip, guests can expect to spend most of their time in tölt, a smooth, four-beat gait that can be executed at all speeds. The pace is a racing gait and not for the faint-hearted. In this mode, Icelandic horses can reach speeds of up to 64km/h. However, less-experienced riders are welcome to watch the world go by at a more leisurely speed.

The scenery on Rømø is diverse and the rides take you over pasture, heather-flecked heath and fertile, shady woodland. The highlight of any trip to Rømø is the incredible beach riding. There is simply nothing like it and Thøgersen maintains that you will never ride on a more beautiful stretch of shore.

“We are so lucky to have Europe’s widest beach, allowing endless gallops along huge, shimmering expanses of flat sand,” she says.

Once you live the experience, it’s hard to disagree. Especially when venturing into the sea with the horses, weather and safety requirements permitting. Soon after the initial shock of the cold water, you’re hanging on tight and enjoying the buzz of riding bareback. With your plucky little horse leaping and plunging in the sea with his head held just above water, it is nothing short of breathtaking.

Denmark’s changeable climate is similar to that of the UK and, as an island, can get quite windy in autumn and winter. During the coldest weather, you may even be tölting through snow flurries. The best advice is to check the forecast before leaving and pack a waterproof jacket and plenty of thin layers, so you are prepared for any eventuality.

Thøgersen is keen to welcome more holidaymakers to Denmark. It is a relatively inexpensive, clean country and very easy to get to from many different European centres.

If you’re looking for a fun-packed trip in the great outdoors, look no further than the beautiful island of Rømø; charging along a flat, sun-drenched beach with a pair of tufty Icelandic ears in front of you will leave you bursting with exhilaration.