01 July 07

Hedonistic Travel

HEDONISTIC TRAVEL

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The Krakow gig

Summer Jazz Festival Krakow gets jazzed-up for the annual Summer Jazz Festival, with daily concerts between 7 July and 5 August. The highlight is the festival's Night of European Jazz on 21 July. Szczepanski Square will be the grand setting, with a host of top acts set to take to the stage from 6pm.

KRAKOW,once the playground of Poland's kings and queens, is now a medieval maze of hedonism. The city's beating heart is its boisterous student population, who help keep cellar pubs bulging, ably assisted by barmy artisans of every trade, and queens of a less royal variety.

Untouched by Nazi bombing, Krakow's decadent architecture remains splendidly intact, something best sampled by checking into the Wentzl Hotel (19 Rynek Glówny), a slice of Krakow history with unbeatable views over the city's bustling main square, the Rynek Glowny. Meanwhile, the glitzy glamour of the Amadeus Hotel (20 Mikolajska) is the choice for visiting dignitaries, including the British Royal Family.

Anyone who thinks Polish food consists of unidentifi ed slabs of meat and potatoes should visit Wierzynek (15 Rynek Glówny) -- its version of Pierogi (Slavic stuffed dumplings) was recommended by Fidel Castro himself. For something more laid-back, eat lunch at Milk and Co (17 Straszewskiego). This Krakow institution ships out fresh salads and sandwiches amid a chic, simple interior.

As the night descends, so should you -- into one of Krakow's infamous basement bars. Just off the main square you'll fi nd CK Browar (6-7 Podwale), a microbrewery serving up fresh brews and a raucous crowd. Budda Drink and Garden (6 Rynek Glówny) holds an outdoor garden, which in summer is hijacked by pre-club revellers. Krakow's most fashionable club, Prozak (6 Plac Dominikanski) attracts the city's bold and beautiful, with a maze of subterranean rooms. For morning-after sustenance, fall into Nic Nowego (15 Sw. Krzyza), a classy Irish bar bereft of shamrocks and dancing leprechauns, but with a landlord who knows punters by name.

If you're looking to shop, head for the former Jewish district of Kazimierz. Today headquarters for bohemians, the area hosts the city's best art, antique and craft shops.

To recharge your batteries head to Bagelmama (2 Podbrzezie). Perpetually packed, it's worth the wait for their selection of freshly cut bagels. If you want to sink your teeth into Krakow's history, try the Jewish restaurants in Szeroka, the Kazimierz main square. The area is also home to Krakow's alternative nightlife, including the offbeat Alchemia (5 Estery), regular haunt of rock, punk and shock bands, while nearby Le Scandale (9 Nowy) mixes rocket-fuelled cocktails for a crowd hell-bent on mischief.

Blow away your hangover on Sunday, with a visit to Plac Nowy's open-air market, with over 300 stalls selling all manner of curios and antiques. Back in the main square, enjoy the fun and funky contemporary art space Bunkier Sztuki (3a Szczepaski).