HEDONISTIC TRAVEL

Dublin



take a tour of Dublin’s lively and traditional drinking holes

Yvette Dolan offers some insider secrets on how to enjoy an indulgent St Patrick’s weekend in the Irish capital

THINK Dublin on Paddy’s Day is all about green beer? Think again. Whether or not you visit Ireland’s capital this 17 March (the party lasts all week), you’ll discover a buzzing multicultural city, filled with hip, hedonistic delights.

No plan to be a dirty rotten scoundrel for the weekend could begin without what’s affectionately known as a “dirty pint” of Guinness on Friday night. For some quality creamy black stuff and an authentic “oul’ man’s pub” atmosphere, head to Mulligans’ on Poolbeg Street then eat out Irish-style at the Winding Stair Café overlooking Dublin’s River Liffey and the historic Ha’penny Bridge.

On Saturday, visit Therapie on Molesworth Street; the Eve Lom facial will leave you glowing (and fielding compliments) for a week. Dylan Bradshaw’s salon will transform your barnet into heavenly tresses – he’s the man who coifs U2’s Bono – while Greg Dunn’s the man for colour.

Retail therapy is never far away in this compact, pedestrian-friendly capital city. Costume on Drury Street is a quirky corner boutique, attracting Dubliners with bags of taste and money. In the Westbury Mall, Chica and Rococo are fabulous for Boho bits and bobs. Susan Hunter is a TARDIS-like luxury lingerie boutique. Visit Shag for delectable stock from Etro, Missoni and more.

Gentlemen head to Louis Copeland & Sons on Wicklow Street for a sartorial splurge where clients include Padraig Harrington, Pierce Brosnan, Bill Clinton and the Irish Taoiseach (Prime Minister) Bertie Ahern. Louis has suited and booted them all.

Pit-stop at the Celtic Whiskey Shop on Dawson Street where the Middleton is nearly as old as St Patrick himself. Pick up Cohibas from the Decent Cigar Emporium on Grafton Street and you’re sorted for some late-night carousing.

Refuel with a Champagne Afternoon Tea at the Four Seasons Hotel before a night on the town. After dusk, Ice Bar is the frosty-cool place to quaff Cristale, but phone ahead to reserve a table. Ely Café and Wine Bar is casual-chic with refined comfort food. Chapter One is a firm Dublin favourite, while Peploe’s “on the Green” brims with atmosphere. For Michelin stars, visit Guilbaud’s restaurant in the Merrion Hotel.

Stroll through Stephen’s Green on Sunday before brunching in Odessa on Dame Court. Pre-book a driver and a tee time at the K Club in County Kildare where the Ryder Cup was played last September. Cop some culture at the Merrion Hotel where you can enjoy afternoon tea and art by Paul Henry, Sir John Lavery, Louis le Brocquy and Jack B Yeats.

The Irish Gig

The Rakes

The Vicar Street Theatre, 20 March

The Rakes – one of the new wave of London punk rock bands – will be performing an incendiary live show of charged-up, often electrifying tales of everyday life at the Vicar Street Theatre this 20 March. Join all the hippest Dubliners in the mosh pit. Go to www.ticketmaster.ie for tickets and info.

BEST TO REST

The legendary Shelbourne Hotel (www.marriott.ie) has just been refurbished with refinement. The central Merrion Hotel (www.merrionhotel. com) is possibly the most opulent and VIP-discreet.

With just eight suites, Bijou Brownes Townhouse Hotel (www.brownesdublin. com) is the nearest thing to owning a posh Dublin pied-a-terre.

Or do an Al Pacino and check into the penthouse suite of The Westbury Hotel (www.lhw.com).