Going for a Song

Tired of paying a fortune for a ticket then getting rained on? Craving something different? Europe's sunny, low-cost events could be what you're after, says Will Dunn

Glastonbury, 1998. Three young men sit shivering in a tent they bought from Tesco the day before. Rain hammers on the roof of the tent. In the distance, music can faintly be heard.

“I think we might be missing Bob Dylan,” said my friend Simon. “But I can’t go outside because my shoes got washed away and I think I’ve got frostbite.”

“Hey, I’ve got an idea,” said my other friend, Joe. “You know that lighter fluid we bought for the barbecue?” We stared glumly at our disposable barbecue, a memento of a more optimistic time. “The barbecue I’ve been using as a pillow since my real pillow got muddy?” asked Simon. “Er, yeah,” said Joe. “What if we put some lighter fluid in the saucepan and, you know, light it? It could keep us warm!”

“Like a log fire – but, in the tent?” I asked, thinking about what it would be like to be warm again.

“Exactly! Like a wonderful, warm, crackling log fire!”

“See – nice and warm,” said Joe as we warmed our hands on the smouldering remains of our tent.

“Yeah. And you reckon my eyebrows will definitely grow back?”

That night, we wrapped ourselves in bin bags and slept on the ground. It was like some sort of military exercise, except it cost us £80 and Rolf Harris was there. He drove past in a Land Rover, shouting: “Watch out for the mud, boys!” Thanks, Rolf.

In Budapest some years later, my friends mentioned that they were going to a music festival the following day. “But it’s not raining,” I said, confused. “And you’re not on fire.” I went along anyway, and discovered a new world of festivals – cheap, sunny festivals where the organisers don’t require a DNA sample before you’re allowed to buy a ticket. And there are loads on this year – all for €100 or less.

This summer kicks off with SELECTOR FESTIVAL in Krakow, Poland (fly to Krakow, 4–5 June, from 135PLN (€35), www.selectorfestival.pl). With tickets this cheap, you can afford a decent room in the city – and the bands are top notch. Last year’s line-up included Franz Ferdinand, Orbital and CSS, and Faithless are already confirmed as headliners this year. A couple of days in Poland’s most happening city, or a wet weekend in the West Country?

Nor is Selector the only good festival in Poland this summer: Hot Chip and Kasabian join Massive Attack and Pearl Jam at HEINEKEN OPEN’ER on the coast near Gdansk (fly to Gdansk, 1–4 July, 390PLN (€100) for a four-day pass, including camping, with showers, www.opener.pl). I’d consider staying a couple of extra days to recuperate on the stunning beaches of the Hel peninsula, a short boat ride away.

Another impressive city festival is SONAR, Barcelona’s arty, edgy celebration of culture and the right to have a good time (fly to Barcelona (Girona and Reus), 17–19 June, €100 for a two-night ticket, www.2010.sonar.es). During the day, catch live music, films, multimedia art and record fairs in the CCCB and MACBA buildings, then at night take free coaches to the huge venue outside the city, offering performances by the biggest acts in electronica. Confirmed acts so far include The Chemical Brothers, Dizzee Rascal, Air and LCD Soundsystem.

Perhaps the biggest name in the new breed of European festivals is EXIT, Serbia (fly to Osijek just over the border in Croatia then take the bus to Novi Sad, 8–11 July, £85 (€94), www.exitfest.org). What started in 2000 as a political protest has become one of Europe’s biggest parties. Taking place in the huge Petrovaradin fortress perched above a bend in the Danube, EXIT attracts fans from all over Europe. Must-see confirmed acts include Mika, Crystal Castles, Erol Alkan and The Chemical Brothers.

Massive castles are one thing, but the setting for MELT! (fly to Altenburg, 16–18 July, from €74, www.meltfestival.de) takes some beating. This legendary German electro/rock festival takes place at Ferropolis, an open-air museum of huge industrial machines. Cranes and diggers tower over the stages, where cutting-edge acts include The XX and Foals, alongside major names like Massive Attack.

If you prefer somewhere a little more laid-back, try the small fishing town of Sète in the south of France. DJ Gilles Peterson’s WORLDWIDE FESTIVAL (fly to Montpellier, 8–11 July, Silver Pass €99, www.worldwidefestival.com) boasts long, sun-drenched sessions on a private beach – a world away from your average is-it-mud-or-is-it-poo horrors. Confirmed this year are The Gaslamp Killer, Floating Points, Norman Jay and Quantic Y Su Combo Barbaro.

Another festival with its own beach is SOUNDWAVE in Croatia (fly to Zadar, 23–25 July, €75 (€83), www.soundwavecroatia.com). Described as a mini-Bestival, this event has a Balearic feel: clear blue waters and lashings of hot, tasty sunshine. Add boat parties, a circular 1970s club for after-parties and top dance and hip-hop acts (DJ Yoda headlined last year), and the Isle of Wight looks a lot less exotic.

What could be more exotic than a disused missile base just outside Frankfurt? OK, so it’s no Croatian beach, but about 60,000 clubbers and the world’s top DJs will be having it very, very large at the biggest open-air dance music event in Europe, NATURE ONE (fly to Frankfurt (Hahn), 30 July–1 August, €68, www.nature-one.de). Last year’s headliners included Judge Jules, Carl Cox and Armin van Buuren, and with tickets at that price, you’ll have plenty left over for bottled water and sweets.

Some people think the UK festivals are their only chance to see big North American rock bands, but a lot of these stop off in Paris on their way home. At ROCK EN SEINE (fly to Paris (Beauvais), 27–29 August, €99, www.rockenseine.com), bands have included Queens of the Stone Age, Arcade Fire, Vampire Weekend and Rage Against the Machine, and afterwards you can slink back into Paris for a shower and a couple of days’ shopping. Staying with France, August also sees laid-back REGGAE SUN SKA (fly to Bordeaux, 6–7 August, €42, www.reggaesunska.com) at Saint-Sauveur, with acts like Alpha Blondy and Easy Star All-Stars.

That’s what really sold me on overseas festivals – they’re a lot more laid-back. One of my favourites is LA ROUTE DU ROCK (fly to Dinard, mid-August, www.laroutedurock.com). A couple of years ago, my flatmate and I went there to see Sonic Youth, CSS and Justice playing on a stage made from the ruins of an old castle. It was all going well until we got to the front of the queue and I’d forgotten my ticket. I searched my pockets, desperately trying to explain myself in schoolboy French.

“Would you ’ave come all ze way from England wizout a ticket?” pondered the guard. Before concluding: “Non, I believe you – and anyway eets a nice day. In you go.” Now that’s festival spirit.