First Resort

Winter is almost here and tough choices need to be made: where do we go to ski this year and which resorts are the ones to watch. Matt Barr gets on the case.

Veteran winter sports fanatic and co-author of Skiing Europe (Footprint), Matt Barr, knows all about snow and where to get the best of it. That’s why we asked him to give us the rundown on the coolest places to stay, ski and après-ski on the Ryanair ski routes this season. So look close and read carefully and then get booking with our definitive guide to the slopes, from James Bond-style super-resorts through to cheaper, hidden gems.

KRONPLATZ/PLANS DE CORONES
The place: Slick, ultra-modern skiing in the South Tyrol heartland.
The vibe: Kronplatz mountain looms over the 13 villages and city of Bruneck that make up this Italian resort. Choose between cutesy, rural digs and the bigger city charms of Bruneck.
Need to know: As well as having the world’s most modern gondola system, Kronplatz has a veritable battalion of snow-making machines.
Anything else? Everything has two names here, as German, Italian and local Ladin are all spoken. Confused? Good job the resort is as easy to navigate as they come.

ALTA BADIA
The place: This pretty area in the heart of the Dolomites is mystifyingly unknown to most British skiers. Call it quintessential Italian skiing.
The vibe: Alta Badia manages to tick a lot of boxes. It is really five villages – Colfosco, Corvara, La Villa, San Cassiano and Pedraces – linked to the famous Sella Ronda ski area, so it blends great skiing with a beautiful setting.
Need to know: Jimmy’s Hutte is renowned for its grappa-fuelled après, served by the jovial host himself.
Anything else? Make sure you try the Sella Ronda, a 26km circuit that circumnavigates the Sella Massif.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
The place: Fur coats and posing are de rigeur in Italy’s flagship resort.
The vibe: Don’t be surprised to catch an all-in-one-sporting Roger Moore flashing an urbane wink in your direction – For Your Eyes Only was filmed in Cortina. It’s like gliding back in time to an alternate skiing universe, where the cable cars are terrifying, après ski is taken very seriously and the advent of snowboarding is some sort of dystopian nightmare.
Need to know: All levels are well catered for.
Anything else? Pack your flexible friend – Cortina is as pricey as Italian resorts go.

MONTE ROSA
The place: Fantastic terrain, empty slopes and bottomless powder make this Italian-Swiss area one for the cognoscenti.
The vibe: Best-kept secret in the Alps, but the large number already au fait with the charms of Monte Rosa won’t thank us for blowing said secret wide open.
Need to know: Key resorts in the area are Champoluc, Gressoney and Alagna.
Anything else? Try the Guglielmina Refuge (www.rifugioguglielmina.com), the highest hotel in the Alps.

COURMAYEUR
The place: Courmayeur sits on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif, meaning great terrain and fantastic views of western Europe’s highest mountain.
The vibe: Although only separated from the Mont Blanc tunnel by a few kilometres, Courmayeur is a world away from its famous neighbour. Cobbled streets, great food and perfect intermediate skiing – what’s not to like? Need to know: Courmayeur’s only flaw is the cable car-only access to the resort. It means lengthy queues are common.
Need to know: Courmayeur’s only flaw is the cable car-only access to the resort. It means lengthy queues are common.
Anything else? For confident intermediates and experts, La Vallée Blanche, one of the longest off-piste runs in the world, is a must-do.

LIVIGNO
The place: Europe’s remotest resort is also one of the cheapest and a duty free enclave.
The vibe: Great nightlife, cheap shopping and ideal intermediate and beginner terrain – think of Livigno as a classier Andorra.
Need to know: Check the Munt La Schera tunnel times to avoid being cut off !
Anything else? The town is spread out along the valley, making a car pretty essential.

CERVINIA
The place: Ski the Matterhorn on the Italian side.
The vibe: Cervinia shares the same ski area as its Swiss neighbour, but is much cheaper.
Need to know: Party in Cervinia at Copapan and Gasoline, and ski in Zermatt.
Anything else? Make sure you have some ID if you do head over into Switzerland. The locals swear by it.

LA THUILE
The place: Linked to the French resort of La Rosière to form the Espace San Bernardo, meaning you can ski two countries in one day.
The vibe: Without the link to France, La Thuile would be unspectacular. But the idea of having a border crossing on a piste gives it a USP
Need to know: With 30 red runs and 32 blues, intermediates and beginners will find much to occupy them on these south-facing slopes.
Anything else? Experts can always try heliskiing at nearby Valgrisenche. For more details, visit www.heliskivalgrisenche.it

ST MORITZ
The place: Glitz, glamour and the Cresta Run combine at one of the world’s top-notch resorts.
The vibe: Pack a fur coat, lots of money and your best Gucci sunglasses. And a spare pair of underpants if you plan to take on the Cresta Run.
Need to know: Mere mortals should probably stay at Hotel Stille (www.hotelstille.ch), which has turned its “least expensive hotel in St Moritz” tagline into a selling point. Yes, it is that pricey.
Anything else? The slowest time on the Cresta Run was supposedly posted by Errol Flynn – witnesses claim he “let out a high-pitched scream” all the way down.

ISCHGL
The place: Austria’s second resort (after St Anton) is an après-ski hotspot.
The vibe: Ischgl has something of a schizophrenic character – a traditional 10th century village updated and turned into a party stronghold. The skiing isn’t bad either.
Need to know: There’s a high standard of accommodation here, with the Trofana Royal (www.trofana.at) at the top of the heap.
Anything else? Elton John, Lionel Ritchie and Sting have all performed concerts here.

OBERGURGL
The place: Lovely oldfashioned Austrian resort that has managed to keep pace with the development of modern ski tourism.
The vibe: Has a loyal following thanks to the high altitude (1,930m), tree runs and fantastic, family-run accommodation.
Need to know: Nearby snowboarding stronghold Sölden means Obergurgl has very few sideways sliders.
Anything else? Visit the Top Mountain Star at 3,082m for views that’ll knock your beanie off.

CLAVIERE
The place: This little village links to the enormous Milky Way ski area, giving you a whopping 400km of piste to play on.
The vibe: The 2006 Winter Olympics had a huge effect on this part of the Alps and tiny Claviere, just inside Italy, was a prime beneficiary.
Need to know: “Cosy” is the best word to describe this bijou mix of old and new buildings. Nearby Montgenèvre has more rowdy nightlife.
Anything else? Take the green option – fly to Turin and get the train to Oulx and the bus up to the resort from there.

LECH
The place: The resort for which the phrase “chocolate box” might well have been invented.
The vibe: Deep blankets of snow? Check. Large ski area linked to Zürs and St Anton? Yep. More award-winning restaurants than any village in Austria? Ditto. Welcome to Lech.
Need to know:The area was used to shoot the film Bridget Jones: the Edge of Reason.
Anything else?Head to the marked routes off Stubenbach if there’s good snow.

SAINTE FOY
The place: Most people drive past Sainte Foy in their hurry to reach nearby Tignes and Val d’Isère. More fool them, as they’re missing one of the French Alps’ most underrated resorts.
The vibe:Sainte Foy has just four chairlifts, yet the terrain and lack of crowds make it a gem for advanced and intermediates.
Need to know: Beginners will love it as well, especially the relaxed atmosphere on the hill.
Anything else? Night owls might not rate the village’s somewhat homely atmosphere.

FLAINE
The place: No resort divides aesthetic opinion like Flaine, France. Is it a work of modern art or concrete eyesore? However you see the village, there’s no denying the fantastic skiing on offer here.
The vibe: This town could well be the result of a planning meeting headed by a particularly belligerent Tracey Emin after reading a Bauhaus handbook. While drunk.
Need to know: Forget the carbuncle-like village and concentrate on the glorious terrain, which links to the Grand Massif ski area.
Anything else? Make sure you check out some of the works of art scattered around this resort, including pieces by Picasso.

ARE
The place: Sweden’s biggest resort sits prettily along the shores of the Aresjon Lake and is popular with families.
The vibe: The three villages of Are, Duved and Björnen are linked by a bustling village centre.
Need to know: It is probably easiest to book accommodation through website www.skistar.com, which lists all the main options.
Anything else? Make sure you visit the beautiful frozen waterfall on the outskirts of town. Wrap up warm though.

ALPE D’HUEZ
The place: Vertiginous scenery and great skiing, including the 16km-long Sarenne run.
The vibe:With its huge variety of terrain and uninspiring purpose-built town, could unsung Alpe d’Huez by the quintessence of French skiing? We think so.
Need to know: The area is close to French hearts, being the most famous Tour de France stage finish after Paris.
Anything else? Make sure you’re up early – the mainly south-facing slopes here can mean the snow gets sticky in the afternoon.

LES DEUX ALPES
The place: Alpe d’Huez’s neighbour has a better nightlife and a more spread-out feel.
The vibe: Les Deux Alpes is one of France’s stalwart resorts among Brits. Everyone goes home happy, from beginners to freestylers.
Need to know: The two old villages that originally made up the valley are today linked up by 2km of hotels, bars and shops.
Anything else? Experts love it – there are as many black runs as reds, 1,400ha of off-piste terrain and one of Europe’s best terrain parks.

RIKSGRANSEN
The place: The most northerly (and perhaps otherwordly) resort in the world.
The vibe:At 300km north of the Arctic Circle in Sweden, Riksgränsen is cold and almost ridiculously beautiful. Great skiing as well.
Need to know: There are only a couple of restaurants – the Laplandia, the Matsal and Lappi’s Café. So let’s hope you like the menu.
Anything else? Ski under the midnight sun – it’s open until mid-June.