15 April 11

Features

Faro on the ground

You know it as the gateway to the sunny beaches and golf greens of the Algarve, but Faro itself has so much to offer

Get the vibe

SUN, SAILING AND SEAFOOD

BACK IN THE 15TH CENTURY, THE ALGARVE was the gateway to a new world, from where caravels set off in search of riches in Africa and Asia. These days, the process has been reversed and visitors flock to this stretch of southern Portugal, arriving at Faro, the gateway to the region. Until the birth of the republic, monarchs were crowned King or Queen of Portugal and the Algarve – a quirk dating back to the late conquering of the area from the Moors, but also a reflection of the region’s identity.

There’s a saying in these parts that translates roughly as “a weekend without sunshine is like a Sunday without a church service”. Both are pretty much guaranteed in Faro. Fantastic beaches stretch either side of Faro and, though it’s tempting to head off to the large resorts, stick around and you’ll find the Algarve’s capital has a lot to offer – including proximity to some amazing beaches of its own.

Despite its sizeable suburbs, Faro’s centre is small and manageable, curving round a marina filled with luxury yachts. Take a boat trip from here to explore the expanse of tidal creeks and inlets that make up the Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa, a bird reserve and a paradise for fish and crustacea – many of which end up on the tables of Faro’s excellent seafood restaurants.

You’ll find plenty of these flanking the marina and the walled Cidade Velha (“Old Town”). This is an atmospheric and highly picturesque kernel of cobbled streets that wend up to the hilltop cathedral, past terracotta-tiled rooftops and clock towers that are usually capped by ragged storks’ nests.

Much of central Faro consists of pedestrianised cobbled streets. There are shopping malls too, but most of the central area retains myriad traditional stores selling everything from shoes and toys to glazed tiles and embroidery – the unhurried staff carefully wrapping purchases in paper and string.

Yet it’s not all quaintness and tradition in Faro either. The city has its own university, which supports a flourishing bar scene. After midnight, the grid of streets around Rua do Prior and Rua Conselheiro Bivar become party central. However, by day Faro’s vibe remains decidedly laid back. The elderly sit by the marina in the shade of jacaranda trees and the locals’ working day is punctuated by leisurely coffee breaks at the many outdoor tables that cluster round its squares and broad pavements.

Slow down to the gentle pace of life, taking time to sample what the city has to offer: fantastic Portuguese pastries, fresh fish and seafood, and some beautiful arts and crafts, as well as some fascinating museums and historic architecture.

But the biggest draw of them all has to be the Algarve’s legendary beaches. Using Faro as your base, you can easily visit a different beach every day for a month and still not experience all those the Algarve has to offer – from giant swathes of sand at Vilamoura and Armação de Pêra to idyllic cove beaches around Lagos and Carvoeiro. Leave time, too, to explore the nearest beaches to town: Praia de Faro, an alluringly long beach by the airport; and Farol, a little village with its own lighthouse on the offshore island of Culatra.

On the street

NATURE AND HISTORY ON YOUR DOORSTEP

THOUGH IT’S TEMPTING TO WHILE AWAY your stay at a shady café or restaurant, don’t miss out on Faro’s cultural attractions. Start by buying a ticket for the Comboio Turístico (www.. deltrain.com), a train that circles the historic centre every hour or so, allowing you to hop on and off where you please.

First stop should be the Sé 1 , the city’s ancient cathedral in the heart of the old town. Even if you’re not moved by the beautifully tiled interior, you’re sure to be impressed by the view from the bell tower, which offers sweeping views across the higgledy-piggledy rooftops to the coast.

Virtually next door lies one of Portugal’s first ever museums, the Museu Municipal de Faro 2 . Containing ancient artefacts from the region, including Roman statues, Moorish vases and Renaissance paintings, the building itself is reason enough to look around, a beautiful 16th-century former convent. Faro’s other main museum, the Museu Regional do Algarve 3 , is particularly good if you have kids. It’s an engaging assembly of the region’s crafts, complete with reconstructions of traditional house interiors, models of fishing boats, costumes and some fascinating historical photos of the area before tourism held sway. Older children may also be intrigued by the ghoulish delights that lie in the back of the imposing Igreja do Carmo 4 . Inside the famous church you’ll find the Capela dos Ossos (“Chapel of Bones”), completely lined with human bones and neatly aligned skulls, a bizarre reminder that we are all mortal.

Head down to the waterfront by the old town walls and you can take one of the daily boat trips into the Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa. One of the best is the two- to three-hour return trip through tidal inlets, where rare wading birds are attracted to Ilha da Barreta, also known as Ilha Deserta (www.ilha-deserta.com). This islet really is deserted apart from a few fishermen’s shacks, a pleasant café-restaurant and the beach-bums who enjoy the miles of sand fringing mainland Portugal’s most southerly point.

You can explore more of the Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa from the neighbouring town of Olhão. Here, Natura Algarve (www.natura-algarve.com) runs boat tours in and around the reserve, from visiting an oyster farm to an adrenalin-pumping RIB tour to spot dolphins and the occasional whale. Back in Faro, check out what’s on at Teatro Lethes ( 5 www.teatrolethes.pt). A plain exterior hides a lavish balconied theatre dating back to the 17th century, though you will probably need Portuguese to appreciate the performances. The monthly Algarve Guia, which you can pick up from the tourist office, lists the regular events that are on here and elsewhere in town.

Home turf

The Algarve is presently undergoing a sporting renaissance. Long famed for its golf courses (www.algarvepromotion.pt/golf), the region also has two football teams in the top league for the first time in many years – though you may need some help before you start chanting their names. Olhanense (www.scolhanense.com), from Faro’s neighbouring town of Olhão, and Portimonense (www.portimonense.pt) from Portimão, both welcome the big name teams from Portugal, including Sporting Lisbon and FC Porto. Also near Portimão, you can get somewhat different thrills at the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve (www.autodromodoalgarve.com), which hosts regular international race events for high-performance cars and motorbikes, including the GT1 World Championship.
If you prefer to be in the driving seat, treat yourself to a couple of circuits in a Porsche or Ferrari, with a trained instructor to keep your wheels on the ground.

At the hotel

FROM SPA RETREATS TO COUNTRY PALACES

THE ALGARVE WAS THE FIRST REGION OF Portugal to attract tourists, and has built up a very impressive range of accommodation – from deluxe hotels to characterful guesthouses and luxury inns in historic monuments.

In Faro, Hotel Eva ( 6 doubles from €116, www.tdhotels.pt) boasts the city’s choicest location, most of its rooms with balconies overlooking the bobbing boats of the marina. Besides a health club and large family rooms, the other draw is a glimmering rooftop pool with commanding views over the coast, a view shared by the top floor bar and restaurant. You can tuck into the superb buffet breakfast as storks drift lazily by the picture window.

The modern Hotel Faro ( 7 doubles from €133, www.hotelfaro.pt) also has great views, and a top floor breakfast room and restaurant. The best of the bright, minimalist rooms look out across the marina, and guests have free access to a shuttle boat to the nearest beaches.

For value, it’s hard to beat the Hotel Sol Algarve ( 8 doubles from €52, www.hotelsolalgarve.com), with simple rooms in a renovated townhouse just east of the centre, a short walk from the train station. The price includes breakfast served in a little patio garden.

Faro Lounge Guesthouse ( 9 doubles from €40, www.faroloungeguesthouse.com) is one of a new breed of hostels that realise budget travellers also appreciate home comforts. In a charming townhouse near the bus station, you’ll find modern decor, big comfy cushions and beanbags, wi-fiaccess and a decent breakfast. Dorms can accommodate larger groups or you can bag a cosy double, though bath facilities are shared. Good for early morning flights, the Estalagem Aeromar ( 10 doubles from €55, www.aeromar.net) is less than five minutes’ drive from the airport and right by the sands of the Praia de Faro beach. Spruce rooms with or without terrace sit above a restaurant that peers out across a lagoon.

If you prefer a place with bags of character, head to Casa de Estoi ( 11 doubles from €85, www.casadeestoi.com), a superbly renovated mansion in the village of Estoi, 11km north of Faro. Its grand rooms wrap round an internal courtyard with its own little pool. There are plenty of reminders of the house’s early 20th-century past, including a horse-drawn carriage, though modern comforts include a games room and honesty bar.

For those into five-star pleasures, head a little out of Faro east to Olhão, where the spanking new Real Marina Hotel & Spa ( 12 doubles from €107, www.real-marina.com) offers deluxe rooms and spa treatments opposite the town marina. The hotel’s Real Spa Thalasso includes a heated saltwater pool and whirlpool bath.

Inn-credible

Portugal’s pousadas (www.pousadasofportugal.com/) are luxury inns set in grand or historic buildings. If you want the comforts of a modern hotel without the generic feeling that you could be anywhere, the three in the Algarve are all uniquely Portuguese. Nearest to Faro, 11km north, the Pousada do Palácio de Estoi (doubles from €130) is set in a former viscount’s palace, and combines boutique flair with 19th-century opulence. Head 30 minutes east to Tavira and you’ll find similar style at the Pousada Convento da Graça (doubles from €130), a former 16th-century convent. Entered through tranquil cloisters, there’s an outdoor pool tucked inside the old town walls, a superb restaurant and a bar partly sat over an archaeological excavation. Finally, at the far west end of the Algarve in Sagres, the Pousada do Infante (doubles from €102) sits in a clifftop mansion overlooking the beaches where Portuguese navigators once set off for the New World.

On the table

SARDINES, LOBSTER AND STICKY DESSERTS

THE PORTUGUESE CLAIM THAT THEY introduced Britain’s liking for tea and cakes, a habit Catherine of Bragança took to England after her marriage to Charles II in 1661. Faro’s Café Gardy 13 certainly boasts a tempting array of croissants, bolos (cakes) and pastéis de nata, flaky custard tartlets that have become highly fashionable in London. It also serves inexpensive salads and light lunches with outdoor seating on the main shopping street – great for people watching.

Faro is also famed for its seafood restaurants, and you’ll have a good experience in most of them, unless you’re a lobster – in which case you’ll be trussed up and placed in a tank by the window before being devoured. One of the most venerable is Marisqueira Faro e Benfica 14 . Despite being named after a football team, it has a reputation as the town’s top spot for dining, and has entertained the likes of former Portuguese Prime Minister José Sócrates.

Dating back to 1925 in a former welder’s shop, Adega Dois Irmãos 15 has a beautifully tiled interior and impeccable service. Try the fantastic monkfish kebabs or grilled lobster. Virtually next door, Sol e Jardim 16 specialises in cataplanas, stews cooked in a big wok-like pan. The restaurant has a large internal garden, ideal for warm spring evenings. Currently making culinary waves is Faz Gostos ( 17 www.fazgostos.com) in Faro’s old town. The philosophy of owner Duval Pestana is that you should take your time over fine dining. The chef (his wife) creates superb international flavours using local ingredients, like tiger prawns with mango, asparagus risotto and John Dory with coriander rice.

Sometimes the best meals in Faro are served in the places where locals eat daily. One of these, Taberna Modesto 18 , lies only a few steps from Faz Gostos but offers a complete contrast. Little more than a café with outdoor tables on the cobbles, its menu consists of one meat or one fish dish and you’ll probably be served by the cook – but the food is invariably delicious. Out by the train station, another popular locals’ spot is Adega Nova 19 , a barn-like venue decked out with agricultural instruments and decorative jugs, where patrons line up on long wooden benches. Pork and beef steaks are excellent value here, as is the fresh fish of the day.

For somewhere more romantic, seek out República 20 , whose cosy interior has lots of art on the walls and a menu that features feijoada (bean stew) and tasty meat fondues. And no visit to Portugal is complete without at least one plate of sardines. Cervejaria Baía 21 is usually a good bet for these, with outdoor seats on a quiet pedestrianised square. Though locals will remind you that sardines are only good when there is not an “r” in the month (ie, May to August).

Algarve on a plate

Don’t leave the Algarve without trying some of the local specialities. Some 80% of Portugal’s seafood comes from around the Algarve’s salt flats, and most restaurants serve superb prawns, spider crabs and oysters. These are often served up as a soupy fish stew in a cataplana, or with rice in a paella-like arroz de marisco. Don’t miss the ubiquitous sardines or other grilled fish, or the fish stew, caldeirada. The region is also famed for its hams, with superb smoked presunto and spicy sausages (salsicha). If you’re unsure whether to have seafood or meat, try a combination of the two with a carne de porco à Alentejana, a sumptuous blend of pork cooked with clams, fried potatoes and pickled vegetables. The Algarve’s almonds and figs form the basis of some of the delicious local desserts, too, including tarte de amêndoa (almond tart) and the grandly named bolos de Dom Rodrigo. These baklava-like desserts are whipped up using eggs, almonds and syrup.

On the bar

MANY OF FARO’S HIPPEST BARS DON’T open their doors much before midnight, but that won’t stop you enjoying a drink at any time of day. Though local workers occasionally fire up their day with a macieira brandy over breakfast, you’ll probably want to kick off with a sundowner facing the water. Choice number one has to be Café do Coreto 22 . This glass kiosk with outdoor seats hard up against the marina serves everything from breakfasts to full meals, as well as excellent beers, sangria, local liqueurs and wine.

For the best views, head to the top floor of the Hotel Eva (see At the Hotel). Here the Harune bar has wicker chairs on a terrace where you can nurse a drink while admiring the stunning vistas across the old town and the Ria Formosa nature reserve.

It’s a short walk under the palms that line Jardim Manuel Bivar to Faro’s chicest hangout, Columbus Bar ( 23 www.barcolumbus.com). Set in a 500-year-old former hospital, its interior blends modern decor with bare stone, while outside there’s seating under cool arcades – the perfect place to sample a caipirinha, a potent Brazilian cocktail. And be sure to check out the website to get the latest on the upcoming party and DJ nights.

If you want somewhere to chill out over a drink, head up to the old town where the Taberna da Sé 24 nestles behind the cathedral. There are outdoor seats on a quiet street, or take a space in the cosy interior and try to decipher the messages on the liberally graffitied walls. This is a good spot to sample Algarviana, a potent local liqueur.

The closest to a British-style pub in town is the Âncora Bar 25 , whose interior is full of nautical paraphernalia. Ropes, anchors and model ships sit under an impressively carved wooden ceiling. There’s often live football on the TV in the corner.

As the evening progresses, most locals head to the grid of streets north-west of the marina, which is where most of Faro’s late-night bars and clubs can be found. Relatively early to open its doors is Upa-Upa 26 , a laid-back spot for an early cocktail or two. Nearby, Bakana 27 is a music bar that offers an intriguing array of shots, including the “nightmare” (with tequila) and “cocain” (with white rum and mint liqueur). After a couple of these, you’ll probably be ready to seek out one of the diverse array of dance clubs along Rua do Prior.

Presently the ‘in’ place to be seen, Galleria Bar Património 28 gets going from about 11.30pm and should be warmed up by about 1am. It’s a big space with contagious tunes that you’ll be humming to yourself long into the next day.

Classic Cliff

To appreciate what the Algarve’s bars have to offer, it helps to have a sense of adventure. Joining the fine local beers like Super Bock and Sagres are some unique local firewaters that just have to be sampled. Brandymel, a mix of honey and brandy, is as soothing as it sounds, while Algarviana, made from local almonds, has an interesting kick. For something really unusual, sample a schnapps-like Medronho, made from the fruit of the strawberry tree. Portugal’s wines have a growing reputation and some to look out for include excellent reds and whites from the neighbouring Alentejo region. A top Algarve wine to try is Quinta do Barranco Longo, though flying the flag for Algarve wines is the venerable Cliff Richard, whose vineyard near Albufeira produces the very quaffable Vida Nova. It’s sold in many large shops, or you can visit the winery at Quinta do Miradouro (www.winesvidanova.com). If you’re lucky, you may even catch Sir Cliff helping out around the estate.

Hit the shops

SWAP THE BEACH FOR SOME RETAIL THERAPY

AS THE ADMINISTRATIVE HUB OF THE Algarve, Faro is well-equipped with a diverse range of shops, from mega malls to quaint traditional stores and boutiques. Most shoppers gravitate towards the attractive pedestrianised grid of streets around the main Rua de Santo António, whose mosaic cobbles are polished clean overnight and swept diligently by the shop owners each morning. Here you’ll find the usual international chains such as Mango and Zara, but also family run stores that have remained unchanged for decades.

A good first point of call is F. Carminho 29 , a craft-cum-souvenir emporium in two separate buildings. Rummage about and you’ll find beautiful locally produced embroidery, ceramics, bags and knitted jumpers.

Portugal has traditionally supplied some 40% of the world’s stock of wine corks, but with screwtops threatening the industry, shops such as Arco de Santo António 30 are proving there is life in cork yet. The shop’s stylish contemporary crafts include a range of unusual and attractive products like cork handbags, cork shoes and some beautiful bracelets and pendants.

If you’re after some local food and drink to take home, look no further than Rui Garrafeira 31 . This off-license-cum-deli stocks a huge array of top quality wines and ports, cheeses (the hard goats’ cheese is superb), chocolates and some of the Algarve’s legendary almond sweets.

Heading into the old town, it is well worth seeking out the treasure trove of goods inside Joaquim da Silva Carneiro’s 32 rough and ready workshop. Specialising in antiques and reclaimed items from churches and demolished houses, this is a particularly good place for decorative tiles, some dating back to the 16th century.

Serious shoppers should head for Forum Algarve ( 33 www.forumalgarve.net), a Moorish-style shopping mall on the road out to the airport. With 119 shops, 23 restaurants and its own cinema, you could easily while away a day here. Fashion brands like Benetton, Timberland and Levi’s are joined by a host of local and international stores such as Swarovski, Sport Zone, and the massive hypermarket Jumbo.

For something more alternative, the boutiques along Rua Conselheiro Bivar are worth a browse. Freak Outlet 34 sells clubbing wear, trendy bags and offers the chance to have a holiday tattoo done if you get the urge. For an exclusive purchase, visit the olive groves of Monterosa (www.algarveolive.com), near Moncarapacho. The highly rated extra virgin olive oil is produced and sold only from the estate (or ordered online), and Carla Bruni and the Queen of Sweden are both said to be regular customers.

What's in stall

The Algarve has some fantastic markets where you can find some of the best produce from the region. Faro’s rather grand Mercado Municipal ( 35 7am–2pm, Monday–Saturday) has stalls selling everything from dried figs and olives to local honey and fresh fruit. But perhaps the best market (also Monday–Saturday) is at Olhão, where two market buildings nestle up against the harbour. Fresh fruit and vegetables fill one building, while the other displays an astonishing array of fish: enormous tuna steaks the size of hubcaps, alarmingly big octopuses and ridiculously cheap sardines. Come on a Saturday morning and a farmers’ market sprawls right along the waterside, complete with caged birds, clothes and the sort of characters that only markets seem to produce. Another excellent market is at the town of Loulé. As well as a covered market Monday–Saturday, there’s a large gypsy market every Saturday on a spot below the Nossa Senhora da Piedade church.

In the bag

SOUVENIRS TO SPLASH OUT ON

1 / CORK BRACELET A bracelet crafted from local cork makes a unique gift. This cork is remarkably strong and resilient, as well as waterproof – and you can ease your conscience in the knowledge that harvesting cork is totally sustainable (in fact it grows back even stronger). €16

2 / OLIVE DISH The Algarve is famed for its olives and its pottery, so combine the two with an attractive olive dish with its own compartment for the stones. The dishes are an example of majolica, an earthenware ceramic made using techniques introduced by the Moors. €4

3 / ANTIQUE TILE The art nouveau kitchen tile pictured dates back to 1920,and you’ll find similar decorative azulejos on Portuguese houses, park benches, fountains and even bridges. You can also buy reproduction ones for about €1, to get that Portuguese look in your living room. €7.50

4 / AGUARDENTE For a taste of the Algarve, try this powerful liqueur, made from honey, figs and a firewater made from grapeskins. At 36%, it will brighten up any post- holiday blues, and once you’ve finished it you’ll end up with an attractive bottle for your mantelpiece. €6.95

5 / CHEESE Cured sheep’s and goats’ cheeses are tangy, powerful and delicious. You’ll often be served them as starters in local restaurants in Faro. They last for weeks, too, so are a good product to take home for a pungent reminder of the country. €1.70

Where it's at

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Sé Largo da Sé / 2 Museu Municipal de Faro 14 Largo Afonso IIl, tel: +351 289 897 400 / 3 Museu Regional do Algarve Praça de Liberdade, tel: +351 289 878 238/ 4 Igreja do Carmo Largo do Carmo / 5 Teatro Lethes59 Rua de Portugal, tel: +351 289 820 300 / 6 Hotel Eva 1 Avenida da República, tel: +351 289 001 000/7 Hotel Faro 2 Praça Dr Francisco Gomes, tel: +351 289 830 830 / 8 Hotel Sol Algarve52 Rua Infante Dom Henrique, tel: +351 289 895 700 / 9 Faro Lounge Guesthouse 72 Avenida da República, tel: +351 289 108 203 / 10 Estalagem Aeromar Praia de Faro, tel: +351 289 817 189 / 11Casa de Estoi 80 Rua Eng. Joaquim Belchior, tel: +351 289 990 170 / 12 Real Marina Hotel & Spa Ria Formosa, Olhão, tel: +351 289 091 300 / 13 Café Gardy16 Rua de Santo António, tel: +351 289 824 062 / 14 Marisqueira Faro e Benfica Doca de Faro, tel: +351 289 821 422 / 15 Adega Dois Irmãos 15 Praça Ferreira de Almeida, tel: +351 289 823 337 / 16 Sol e Jardim 22-23 Praça Ferreira de Almeida, tel: +351 289 820 030 / 17 Faz Gostos 13 Rua do Castelo, tel: +351 289 878 422 / 18 Taberna Modesto 2 Largo do Castelo, tel: +351 916 577 044 / 19 Adega Nova 24 Rua Francisco Barreto, tel: +351 289 813 433 / 20República 40 Avenida República, tel: +351 289 807 312 / 21 Cervejaria Baía 7 Largo Dr Silva Nobre, tel: +351 289 822 845/ 22 Café do Coreto Jardim Manuel Bívar, tel: +351 289 822 964 / 23Columbus Bar 13 Praça Dr Francisco Gomes, tel: +351 917 776 222 / 24Taberna da Sé 26 Rua Professor Norberto da Silva / 25Âncora Bar11 Rua do 1 de Maio, tel: +351 919 663 310 / 26 Upa-Upa 51 Rua Conselheiro Bivar, tel: +351 965 410 620 / 2 Bakana Largo da Madalena, tel: +351 916 538 912/28Galleria Bar Património 19 Rua do Prior, tel: +351 919 846 405 / 29 F. Carminho28/29 Rua de Santo António, tel: +351 289 826 522 / 30Arco de Santo António 19 Rua de Santo António, tel: +351 289 827 238 / 31 Rui Garrafeira 28 Praça Ferreira de Almeida, tel: +351 289 821 586 / 32Joaquim da Silva Carneiro 6 Rua da Porta Nova, tel: +351 289 826 156 / 33 Forum AlgarveEN125, tel: +351 212 509 900 / 34 Freak Outlet 73 Rua Conselheiro Bivar, tel: +351 964 537 891 / 35Mercado Municipal Largo Dr Francisco Sá Carneiro