01 January 08
City Focus
CITY FOCUS
PARIS
by Robin McKelvie
PARIS, the “City of Light” — or the city of a thousand clichés — is an oasis that everyone thinks they know.
The great thing about the French capital, however, is that its size and diversity means there’s always plenty
to check out in this “moveable feast” on every visit. You may think you have heard it all before but there’s
more to Paris than you think! So sit back and let our roving European city editor Robin take you on a
personal journey through his old favourites and some more esoteric treats…
Citylens
La Grande Arche de la Défense (1993)
Photo by Jean Gaumy
AHHParis. Yes, it’s all about the
romance, the wide tree-lined
avenues, eating steak frites and drinking
Côtes du Rhône. But what we love is the
architecture, like this modern icon by the
late Danish architect Johann Otto Von
Spreckelsen. Photographed magnificently
here by Magnum snapper Jean Gaumy,
and designed as a 20th-century version of
the Arc de Triomphe, the Grande Arch de
la Défense is technically a bit of a marvel.
Made with a facing of white Carrara marble
and grey granite, it has a glass lift to take
you to the roof. Here you’ll find a gallery
space, but ultimately you’re there for the
views over Paris, which are something to
behold. OK, so they’re a little romantic, too.
www.grandearche.com
Citydays
From the laid-back, classic brasseries to funky fashion boutiques, there’s always something new to discover – and something historic, too!
TO get acquainted with this sprawling
city, either take to one of the city’s
high towers — such as Tour Montparnasse or
the legendary Tour Eiffel — or hop on one of
the myriad cruisers that busy up and down
the lifeblood river Seine. Choose from hulking
Bateaux-Mouches (www.bateaux-mouches.fr),
with fine dining aboard, or take the Batobus
(www.batobus.com), a handy ferry that skips
between many of the city’s main sights.
The core of Paris remains eminently walkable, and many of the key points can be covered on foot from the Hotel de Ville to the Arc de Triomphe, a day’s leisure with time for café and restaurant stops along the way. The elegant town hall gives you a glimpse of the architectural glories to come before you cross the Pont d’Arcole on to the Ile St. Louis, an upmarket and surprisingly peaceful island.
Nip in to Brasserie de I’Ile St-Louis for a
beverage, before crossing on to Ile de la Cité,
where the first people settled Paris. It’s also
home to the stunning Notre Dame Cathedral.
Although entry is free, you have to pay to
climb one of the twin towers
for sweeping views of Paris.
A worthwhile detour is to the
tip of Ile de la Cité, a narrow
point where you can hear
the river lapping against the
quay. Descend here for a
snog and you’ll soon agree
this is the city of romance.
Head along the Left Bank to nearby Pont des Arts, a great picnic spot with panoramic views. The northern end of the bridge opens right on to the world-famous Louvre art gallery, an essential culture stop. Once a royal palace, this ornate wonder was brought bang up-to-date with the addition of I M Pei’s glass pyramid.
Continuing west on through the elegant Jardin des Tuileries you spill out into Place de la Concorde, a seemingly impassable traffic-laden square worthy of note for the voluminous obelisk that crowns its centre. Once across the expanse you are on the much-hyped Avenue de Champs Elysées.
This wide boulevard has recovered a bit
of its old glamour of late, and is well worth a
visit — also head up to the viewing platform
of the Arc de Triomphe. If you crave a brew
afterwards, recline in the classy Ladurée, a
grand 19th-century tea house, while brews of
another variety await at Culture Bière,
a brilliant idea — a “beer restaurant”.
Some more quirky sights include the graves of Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde at the Père Lachaise cemetery, and the Plantée, a 4.5km-long old raised railway track, accessible from Bastille that has been converted into a funky walkway with designer shops housed in its grand arches. Alternatively, try Le Parc de Bercy, which is all very 21st-century Paris, with its mixture of greenery and cool modern architecture.
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