01 March 08

City Focus

City Focus Malta

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Citylens MALTA

MALTA may be one of Europe’s smallest countries and Valletta one of its smallest capital cities, but this bijou gem packs an impressive punch. Valletta boasts myriad layers of history to explore as everyone, from the Phoenicians to the British, has breezed through this sultry Mediterranean island nation, and don’t miss the buzzing suburbs of Sliema and St Julian’s for some heated nocturnal action.

Malta is also the only island to have received British and Commonwealth medal the George Cross (normally reserved for individuals), bestowed in April 1942 by King George VI to “bear witness to a heroism and devotion that will long be famous in history”. This was due to the constant bombardments from German and Italian aircraft that Malta had undergone since June 1940. Fortunately, Hitler’s bombs could do little to wipe away the island’s millennia of culture and tradition.

Arguably best of all, Malta is full of damn fine cars too like the classic Ford pictured here, as our roving city reporter, Robin, discovers.

VALLETTA is tiny, with its old core crammed into an area of just 1km by 1.5km. Add in the northern ‘suburbs’ of SLIEMA and ST JULIAN’S, though, and you have an urban spread that boasts everything from historic sights through to top-end restaurants and rocky beaches.

A great way to really appreciate the massive harbour is with CAPTAIN MORGAN CRUISES (captainmorgan.com.mt). This company offers tours with commentary which sweep around the rapidly changing GRAND HARBOUR, taking in the ‘THREE CITIES’ of VITTORIOSA, SENGLEA and COSPICUA as you go, as well as the northern suburb of Sliema.

Back on land a walk around the hulking fortifications of UNESCO World Heritage-listed VALLETTA is essential. Start at the city gate then head up on to the walls. Chunky bastions, ornate churches and relaxed parks accompany the dramatic vistas of the harbour and the flurry of suburbs (many are actually designated cities in their own right) that spill all around.

Once you’ve run out of space on your camera’s memory card duck back down off the walls and enjoy a drink in one of Valletta’s characterful old cafés. My favourite is the legendary CAFFE CORDINA, a local institution that has been going strong since the 19th century.

Suitably fortified, head for one of Valletta’s cerebral attractions. THE MALTA EXPERIENCE is housed in an exquisite old building, and the unintentionally retro chic audiovisual presentation fills you in on great swathes of history. For a more detailed focus on World War II check out the THE WARTIME EXPERIENCE.

The single most striking building in Valletta is ST JOHN’S CATHEDRAL. You can tell just how rich the Knights of St John (the order that built Valletta into a fortress city) were when you delve inside this masterpiece. The façade may be austere, but the interior is a riot of baroque, with ornate sculptures and figures adorning the various chapels. Check out the cathedral’s museum for more artistic treasures.

You cannot fail to spot the lovely old British buses that rumble around Malta. Hop on one and you can explore the rest of the Maltese mainland. The highlight is the ancient city of MDINA, a charming pedestrianised oasis that is best enjoyed in the morning or late afternoon when the day-trip hordes are absent. BUSES 80 OR 81 will take you up here from Valletta.

After all that hard sightseeing reward yourself with lunch down on the revamped WATERFRONT where the cruise ships dock and ferries scoot off for the neighbouring island of GOZO. There are plenty of choices in this new leisure oasis, with everything from Chinese restaurants (NAN YUAN) to decent Italian restaurants (CASANOVA) and a bar from that perennial favourite, the HARD ROCK CAFÉ. Most of the venues have tables outside where you can soak up the rays and take in the stunning views of the GRAND HARBOUR and the THREE CITIES.