City Focus Florence

Our City Focus editor Robin McKelvie gets to grips with the legendary Renaissance town

City Lens
FLORENCE IS ONE OF THOSE CITIES that everyone thinks they know. Perhaps this is because its world-famous cultural attractions have been pulling in punters since the city was hailed as an essential stop on the Grand Tour back in the 19th century. Florence is, though, a hub that likes to move with the times as much as it strives to perfectly preserve its past. All this makes it an intoxicating modern destination that is bathed so evocatively in the ghosts of the Medicis and Michelangelo. And one of those architectural ghosts is the Duomo (cathedral), pictured here. Its official name is the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore and it is notable in particular for the dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi with its exterior facing of polychrome marble panels in various shades of green and pink bordered by white. The first stone of the Duomo was laid in 1296 and the building was not completed for another 170 years. Today it is one of Florence’s major attractions.

City Days
THERE IS ONLY ONE PLACE TO START the day in Florence and that is out of bed. The early morning light is stunning and the masses have not yet massed at the city’s main attractions. So shake off your slumber and watch the sun rise up over the city from Piazzale Michelangelo to see what some of Europe’s most seminal artists saw each day beyond the grand landmarks left by the Medicis.

If you are serious about your culture – and Florence is perhaps Europe’s most seriously cultural city – you are going to spend a lot of time queuing. Pop over the Arno river via the picturepostcard Ponte Vecchio, where traders are just starting to set up for the day. Then get in line to book a slot for later at the Uffizi, one of the world’s greatest art galleries and home to the globe’s most impressive treasure trove of renaissance art.

Other must-see cultural treasures include the world-famous sculpture and epitome of manliness himself, David. Don’t be content with being fooled by the impressive copies dotted around Florence, and instead get in line at the Galleria dell’Accademia to savour the real thing. Then there is the spectacular unsupported dome of Brunelleschi’s ridiculously ambitious Duomo. If you count St Peter’s as being part of the separate entity of the Vatican, then this is easily Italy’s finest ecclesiastic building. Admire the blindingly ornate exterior before delving inside to appreciate the chapels. You can also climb the bell tower to see the city unfold before your eyes.

Once you’ve had your fill of high art get on a caffeine high at one of the city’s legendary cafes. Rivoire is my favourite – not cheap but the vibe is great as you gaze out over Piazza della Signoria at the miraculously proportioned Palazzo Vecchio. Sip on a cappuccino (only before mid-morning, of course) and munch on the best chocolate in the city as immaculately attired waiters melt your credit card for you.

The city’s best pizza might just be on offer away from the tacky photo menu eateries at Borgo Antico – forget deep pan nonsense, this is the real thing. My top lunch recommendation, though, is even simpler. Slip into the wildly authentic Mercato Centrale and munch with the market traders at one of the stalls, feasting on pecorino cheese or a local tripe sandwich and bread bathed in gorgeous Tuscan olive oil.

Finish the day by descending back down to the Arno. Shun the crowds on the Ponte Vecchio and instead enjoy the best views of the legendary bridge from Ponte Santa Trinita. If you have been clever enough to snare a cold bottle of prosecco at wine emporium Millesimi sit on the bridge soaking up the sun’s rays as they play a merry blood orange and tangerine dance across the mystic Ponte Vecchio and lose yourself in distant dreams of Michelangelo and the scheming Medicis.

City Nights
FLORENCE IS NO IBIZA, BUT STILL HAS a large international student population and a multitude of visitors in search of nightlife. Nevertheless, it manages to successfully tread the fine line between stoking up a party and not making life intolerable for the residents. This helps give this real-life museum its charmingly lived in ambience.

Don’t miss aperitivo (early evening buffet with drinks). Head to the Golden View, which boasts stunning vistas over the Ponte Vecchio and the river. You’ll also find live music and proper food here, so it’s worth hanging around at this lateopening joint if you want to make a night of it. Other aperitivo favourites include Noir and Rex, both hot haunts with the local beautiful people.

Elsewhere myriad restaurants await. Go Michelin mad at the three-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri. Your budget will be blown out of the water, but this is fine dining food to die for and perhaps the best restaurant in Italy, which is really saying something. A good place to try first-class wine and Italian food without breaking the bank is at Dei Frescobaldi Ristorante & Wine Bar, run by a Tuscan family with a rich wine-making heritage.

Santa Croce also boasts a number of great small bars. Just flit around the streets near the epic church and choose one for yourself. To kick off, Nuove Poste has a nice terrace when the weather allows. If it is chillier head inside at I Visacci with its comfy sofas and draught beer.

Florence does not overflow with heaving nightclubs, but there are still some fun places to party. A recent makeover has made Doris a good bet. Serious clubbers may want to make the journey out of town for Tenax, where visiting international superstar DJ talents in the past have included Ibiza stalwarts Pete Tong and Deep Dish.

The Florence Gig
Discover the unique talent of Tomás Kubínek – a man who describes himself as a “certified lunatic and master of the impossible” – at the Saschall Teatro di Firenze 27–30 November. His startling shows are a fairly unclassifiable collage of theatre, comedy and music and he is sure to set a few more conservative Florentine tongues wagging with his madcap antics at this impressive venue.
VIA FABRIZIO DE ANDRÉ. TEL: +39 055 650 4112, WWW.SASCHALL.IT

DOING IT ON THE CHEAP
You might imagine that Florence is impossible to do on a budget, but the good news is the city is so compact you can cover all the main sights on foot, saving on buses and taxis. The Mercato Centrale is a winner if you’re looking to stock up for a romantic picnic down by the Arno — a quintessential Florentine experience. Also consider coming in early spring when all the state museums are free for an entire week during the Settimana dei Beni Culturali.

City Stay
Check out our favourite places to crash – all oozing history, hospitality and Florentine charm
Cream of the Crop
Relais Santa Croce
If it’s glamour, style and history you’re after then the Relais Santa Croce is the place to shell out. This lavish oasis is housed in the 18thcentury Ciofi-Jacometti palace, a world away from the maelstrom of Santa Croce. Heritage and tradition are married with stylish modernity, so expect 18th-century frescoes and period pieces, but also design touches that bring the palace bang up to date. The restaurant echoes this mood with its impressive culinary creations and classic Florentine dishes.
DOUBLES FROM €345, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. TEL: +39 055 234 2230, WWW.PREFERREDHOTELS.COM

Not Breaking the Bank
Plaza Hotel Lucchesi
Tucked right down on the banks of the Arno, the Lucchesi enjoys a privileged position close to the Ponte Vecchio. This old dame has been keeping tourists happy since 1860, and some of the best rooms boast sweeping views of the skyline from their balconies. Neat touches include free wireless internet, and the restaurant is not half bad either — staying on the safe side of Florentine cooking with the likes of beef fillet laced with a decadently rich Chianti sauce.
DOUBLES FROM €160, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. TEL: +39 0552 6236, WWW.SUMMITHOTELS.COM

On a Budget
Casa Pucci
If you want to save your euros but not skimp on location or atmosphere, Casa Pucci really hits the spot. Just a short walk across the Arno from the most famous sights, this cosy bed and breakfast once served as a convent, and period furnishings and paintings add a splash of local colour. There’s also wireless internet and a kitchen where guests can rustle up their own meals with market goodies. The elegant room, complete with four-poster bed, is ideal for budding Romeos on a budget!
DOUBLES FROM €95, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. TEL: +39 055 216 560, WWW.CASAPUCCI.ARTWORK-INFORM.COM

City Map

01 RELAIS SANTA CROCE
87 Via Ghibellina
Tel: +39 055 234 2230
www.preferredhotels.com

02 PLAZA HOTEL LUCCHESI
38 Lungarno Della Zecca Vecchia
Tel: +39 0552 6236
www.summithotels.com

03 CASA PUCCI
8 Via Santa Monica
Tel: +39 055 216 560
www.casapucci.artwork-inform.com

04 UFFIZI GALLERY
Piazzale degli Uffizi
Tel: +39 055 238 8651
www.uffizi.firenze.it

05 GALLERIA DELL’ ACCADEMIA
60 Via Ricasoli
Tel: +39 055 238 8612
www.firenzemusei.it/accademia

06 DUOMO
Piazza Duomo
Tel: +39 055 230 2885
www.duomofirenze.it

07 PALAZZO VECCHIO
Piazza della Signoria
Tel: +39 055 276 8224
www.comune.firenze.it

08 BORGO ANTICO
6 Piazza Santo Spirito
Tel: +39 055 210 437

09 MERCATO CENTRALE
Piazzale del Mercato Centrale

10 MILLESIMI
33 Borgo Tegolaio
Tel: +39 055 265 4675

11 GOLDEN VIEW
58 Via De Bardi
Tel: +39 055 214 502
www.goldenviewopenbar.com

12 NOIR
12–14 Lungarno Corsini
Tel: +39 055 210 751
www.noirfirenze.com

13 REX
25 Via Fiesolana
Tel: +39 055 248 0331
www.rexcafe.it

14 ENOTECA PINCHIORRI
87 Via Ghibellina
Tel: +39 055 242 757
www.enotecapinchiorri.com

15 DEI FRESCOBALDI RISTORANTE & WINE BAR
2–4 Via dei Magazzini
Tel: +39 055 284 724
www.frescobaldiwinebar.it

16 NUOVE POSTE
73 Via Guiseppe Verdi
Tel: +39 055 248 0424

17 I VISACCI
80 Borgo Degli Albizi
Tel: +39 055 200 1956

18 DORIS
26 Via de’Pandolfini
Tel: +39 055 246 6775

19 TENAX
46 Via Pratese
Tel: +39 055 308 160
www.tenax.org

City Lives

“IT IS EASY TO IMAGINE ALL WE have in Florence is art and tradition. But what many people don’t realise is that although our sense of tradition is deeply rooted in who we are as Florentines, this is a city that has continued to succeed for centuries because we are able to change and innovate. My family moved here from Germany 30 generations ago and we’ve been making wine in Tuscany pretty much ever since.

“We now have more vineyard space than anyone else in Tuscany, with 1,200ha spread across nine estates. Our heritage is integral to our success, but as well as the more obvious big Tuscan reds we also work really hard on innovating with the whites too. At Pomino we now produce an excellent DOC blend bursting with chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot bianco and pinot grigio.

“For us and Tuscany in general, quality is paramount, and in Florence you can literally taste it. Just order some unsalted bread and layer it with our peppery, fresh olive oil and maybe a sliver of pecorino, and you have simple, perfect food. You should also try the truffles, T-bone steaks and homemade pasta too. My family now has a restaurant in town on Via dei Magazzini whee you can have everything from snacks through to fine dining in the evenings.

“The main cultural attractions in Florence are obvious, but I do recommend taking time to ease across the Arno from the Duomo side to explore Oltrarno. This is more the ‘real Florence’, where artists sell their work from little studios, mammas hand-roll fresh pasta daily in the trattorias and you feel like you are really exploring Italy.

“Contrary to what people sometimes think we really welcome tourists in Florence. They bring life to our historic streets and also help to keep our treasures preserved for future generations. Florence is a city that will always attract visitors for its great art and churches, but it is a real living city that I encourage people to come to and really explore. The more effort you put in, the more the city will reward you.”
TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT LAMBERTO’S WINES, VISIT WWW.FRESCOBALDI.IccT