01 April 08

City Focus

City Focus Barcelona

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PUT simply, Barcelona is about as happening a European city as you can find. While some people view it as merely a “new” city, whose massive popularity stems from the 1992 Olympics, the truth is it’s so much more. A thoroughly dynamic metropolis, Barcelona is an intoxicating blend of the charmingly historic and the deeply modern, which is what makes it one of Europe’s most compelling short-break destinations, laden with eclectic venues for eating, drinking and dancing.

The area pictured here is one of the neighbourhoods where it all gets going. People can cross the handsome woodenslatted Rambla de Mar bridge – with its high, undulating arches – in the revamped Port Vell area. It’s a bit showy and expensive but has something for everyone, with 19thcentury buildings and a statue of Christopher Columbus at one end of the harbour, and fast-food joints, shops and restaurants, an aquarium and an IMAX cinema on the Moll d’España side at the other. The bridge also swings open to let boats in and out!

FEW cities in the world are so defined by one street. You should head to LA RAMBLA immediately to feel Barcelona’s throbbing pulse. The city’s lifeblood is a confident kilometre-long boulevard that strides from busy PLACA DE CATALUNYA down to the revamped Mediterranean waterfront. On the way, all sorts of human life are on show, with everything from brightly painted street entertainers and fragrant florists, through to pavement cafés and ladies of the night (or day for that matter).

For as light or heavy a meal as you want, pop into RESTAURANT TALLER DE TAPAS. This central outlet of the excellent four-branch tapas chain is a great way to enjoy a range of tasty treats, especially if you don’t want to fight for service at other tapas bars like nearby BAR DEL PI, although this does offer bags more local colour.

The BOQUERIA MARKET is also brilliant for sating your hunger – either put together the ultimate fresh picnic, or battle for a seat at one of the first-class tapas bars. BAR PINOTXO is a real Barcelona institution, run by the irrepressible Juanito, while BAR CENTRAL boasts an eyepopping fiesta of seafood treats. There are many ways to explore the city – you can board the BARCELONA BUS TURISTIC, take a cruise around the harbour and out to PORT OLIMPIC, or even get a bird’s eye view from the cable car across the old port. A fun new way of seeing the sights is by BARCELONA BICI, a funky system where you can hire bikes for the hour, day or even for the week.

But my favourite mode of transport is two feet, in combination with the ultra-efficient metro for longer distances. After rocking down La Rambla, turn left and you can skirt the waterfront of PORT VELL and head towards the beaches. If you have not yet had lunch, pop into RESTAURANT EMPERADOR, one of the few eateries in the impressively renovated PALAU DE MAR that locals will be seen dead in. Try the fideua for two, a lipsmackingly delicious version of paella made with buttery noodles instead of rice.

The city’s cultural attractions are manifold, so a good idea is to pick one seminal talent and follow their unique imprint, for instance Antoni Gaudi. His trail takes you to the epic unfinished SAGRADA FAMILIA, the church that should one day become the city’s tallest building, and also to his lavish PARC GUELL and on to the ornate lampposts in raffish PLACA REIAL.