01 June 08

Features

Child benefits

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London Eye
“Daddy, can we go on that big wheel?” And so might begin one of your more challenging family days out. There you are – you, your partner and your kids – sauntering along by the River Thames in London. There are sights and tourists galore. Over there, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and “that big clock”, aka Big Ben – the crown jewels of the capital’s skyline. Around the corner is Tate Britain and, up the river, you’ll find Tate Modern – twin peaks of the city’s world-renowned arts scene.

So you take your place on the South Bank, gazing up at the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe (135m). But why is it rotating so slowly? Should you have pre-booked the tickets? And why are the kids suddenly agitated, demanding sweets and looking like they’re going to fall into the murky brown water? Such are the costs of visiting one of the most popular tourist attractions in the UK. And as for the actual costs – unless your kids are under five years old, a family of five won’t get much change out of 50 quid.

But London is a big city. Certainly, it’s expensive – but it has myriad parks, green spaces and architectural landmarks, and most of them are free. With a little bit of pre-planning, parents can dream up cultural itineraries that are enjoyable for them and their children. And, if little feet start to ache or restless minds begin to wander, never underestimate the importance of the tactical purchasing of ice cream. Who knows? You might even be blessed with great weather. London is full of surprises.
FOR BOOKING AND PRICES FOR THE LONDON EYE, VISIT WWW.LONDONEYE.COM

O2 (formerly The Millennium Dome)
In its previous life as The Millennium Dome, the O2 was a white elephant. These days you’re almost as likely to see a white elephant there, such are the myriad attractions on offer at this entertainment complex. Over the past year, music fans have been flooding there to see the likes of Led Zeppelin, Prince and The Spice Girls.

But by day, the O2 offers family treats par excellence. Head to the new O2 Bubble exhibition space to see Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs, which runs until 31 August. The show is a masterclass in making art and history accessible and exciting to the young. The rooms are dark and atmospheric, instantly plunging visitors thousands of years back in time to Ancient Egypt. The sense of theatrical occasion is underscored by the headset voiceover by Omar Sharif, which captivated my youngest daughter Neve, six, and my little boy, Sonny, five (and my wife). Entrance to each gallery is staggered, so no one ever felt too crowded in the darkened spaces – important if you’re three-foot-nothing. It’s also important if you want a good view of the treasures on display – gold, onyx, daggers, jewellery and animal statues.

Aftewards, the O2 is a great place to hang out. There are loads of family-friendly restaurants, mini-golf, plenty of wide-open spaces, and few of the money-grabbing gimmicks (vending machines, balloon-sellers and the like) that send both kids and parents wild, but for opposite reasons!
FOR EVENT DETAILS AND TICKETS, VISIT WWW.THEO2.CO.UK

“Politics, Daddy? That’s boring”
My three little darlings didn’t want to go into the dark hole in the ground. My telling them that it used to belong to a great man called Winston Churchill made no difference. So evoking my own bulldog spirit, I resolved to fight my children on the pavement, and on the steps leading into the Cabinet War Rooms. Yet once they were down in the subterranean warren beneath Whitehall, they were transfixed.

These were the secret headquarters of Churchill’s government during World War II. From here the Prime Minister, his political colleagues, his generals and an army of secretaries directed the war. They also ate, slept and smoked cigars down here.

This deep, safe, windowless bunker has been preserved as it was in the dark days of the 1940s. It’s an incredible testament to the sacrifices and strengths of that wartime generation, and manages to be so without being po-faced or overly sombre. Children will be amazed at the cramped living conditions and awestruck at the old weaponry. It also gives you a profound sense of the bloody-minded heroism of both Churchill and the British people.

Back up in the fresh air, you can have a leisurely stroll past the Houses of Parliament and wander through Horse Guards Parade. Neve and Sonny liked standing next to the Household Cavalry sentries and trying to make them laugh, like so many tourists before them. It never works. Then you can peer through the gates at Downing Street. A suitably inspired Sonny insisted he saw James Bond getting out of a car outside Number 10, which is probably a comparison Gordon Brown would appreciate. And it gave us an idea about how to get home – we jumped on a riverboat at Westminster Pier. Part of the city’s public transport, it’s a suitably 007-style getaway from a few of the wonders of cultural London.
FOR MORE DETAILS, VISIT HTTP://CWR.IWM.ORG.UK

The arty heart of London
The Queen really does have everything – all within a few square metres of her little London home. First there’s Buckingham Palace itself, lying at one end of The Mall. It’s best to approach the Palace via St James’s Park, which is one of London’s greatest open-air spots and ideal for letting the kids run around. Across The Mall, you can enjoy fine dining at Inn The Park. Or, if your kids are – like mine – of an age when any restaurant experience is akin to an assault course of agitation, buy a picnic from the supermarket on Trafalgar Square and enjoy it in the middle of the park, with views of a cornucopia of waterfowl (the pelican in one of the lakes was our favourite).

Nearby is the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA), which has inspiring exhibitons, a cinema and a café/bar. The art can be of a more “edgy” type, so not always best for impatient children – but on a scorching Sunday afternoon it was blissfully quiet and cool, offering respite from the heat and streets. And the funky, quirky ICA did have one final treat. As part of his “perception-challenging” display, French artist Loris Gréaud had created some sweets. Neve, Sonny and my eldest daughter Isobella, 13, eagerly sucked on the brightly coloured confections. Then their faces turned upside down as they realised they had absolutely no flavour at all. Touché Gréaud! Like I said, this was a treat – for mum and dad, at least.
FOR MORE DETAILS ON BUCKINGHAM PALACE, THE ICA (OPPOSITE ST JAMES’S PARK) AND INN THE PARK, VISIT WWW.ROYAL.GOV.UK, WWW.ICA.ORG.UK, AND WWW.INNTHEPARK.COM