15 September 11

Features

Barcelona on The Ground

Sea, sand and long summers blend with a vibrant arts and nightlife scene, and good wine and tasty tapas are always to hand. What's not to love about the Catalan capital?

GET THE VIBE

PROUD TO BE LOUD

BARCELONA IS NOT JUST ONE CITY, IT’S several. There’s the Mediterranean party town with terrace bars on every block, designer clubs and late, late nights. There’s the Barcelona that is one of Europe’s most important centres of learning – the site of historic advances in architecture, design, culinary arts and medicine. There’s the town the locals live in, the capital of Catalonia, where the culture and language have survived since the Middle Ages. And there’s the international city of five-star hotels, slick conference centres and high-style venues.

I dare anyone not to love it. There’s a massive energy and sense of fun spilling out across the city, whether it be in the incredibly atmospheric Barri Gòtic or among the varied modernist buildings in Eixample. And it comes from the city’s inhabitants who are eager to embrace you, learn your stories and swallow you up to be part of the melee – especially if you learn a few words of Catalan.

Arrive in the city, grab a map and walk. It’s the perfect size – big enough to be cosmopolitan and vibrant, yet small enough to get around easily. Be surprised by gorgeous Gaudí creations around corners or secret gardens accessed via small squares. Hit main promenade La Rambla in the centre and browse La Boqueria, one of Europe’s largest and most varied open-air food markets. Start your day watching dawn break at the beach and the windsurfers taking to the waves. Finish it with a view of the city as the sun sets and lights twinkle on, from the wheel at the Tibidabo funfair on the hill.

There’s always something going on in Barcelona, from music festivals to flamenco and carnivals that boast fireworks, human towers and more. There are museums for everything from art to perfume, and all manner of shopping opportunities. When it comes to food – perhaps one of the city’s most essential experiences – the dining scene covers everything from buzzing locals’ tapas bars to upmarket fusion cuisine.

Barcelona is a city where past and future, traditional and outré are unusually comfortable together. And you’ll soon find that you feel pretty comfortable here, too.

ON THE STREET

CULTURE HOT SPOTS

IT’S A GOOD MEASURE OF BARCELONA’S attitude that one of its best museums is also the best place to go skateboarding. Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona ( 1 www.cccb.org/ca) is located on a massive white plaça in the central Raval neighbourhood, and is a hotbed for all artistic disciplines, with interactive exhibitions, music and photography festivals and more. In summer, sip a tallat amb gel (iced coffee) on the café’s outdoor sofas before checking out MACBA ( 2 www.macba.cat), CCCB’s older sibling. Barcelona’s Museum of Contemporary Art resembles an upturned freezer, an iconic piece of architecture that houses some very intriguing exhibitions.

From here you can walk to the two other big contemporary art museums. The excellent visual culture institution Virreina Centre de la Imatge ( 3 http://virreinacentredelaimatge. bcn.cat) lies halfway down La Rambla, while Arts Santa Mònica ( 4 www.artssantamonica.cat) sits at the port end of the street, a space exploring the relationship between art, science and communication.

If you fancy a change from all the art – assuming you’ve also seen the museums devoted to Gaudí, Picasso and Miró – then don’t miss the music on offer at Harlem Jazz Club ( 5 www.harlemjazzclub.es) in the Barri Gòtic. It’s an intimate, always packed space with a handful of tables and cheap entry (about €6). Acts range from Afro-pop to bossa nova and goatee-twidling jazz. The electric vibe lasts well into the night.

At the other end of the musical (and price) spectrum, the Palau de la Música Catalana ( 6 www.palaumusica.org) concert hall is a must-see for either a show or a guided tour. The building is an excellent example of Catalan modernism, an explosion of mosaic tiles and towers.

Do pass by Antoni Gaudí’s grand basilica, the Sagrada Família ( 7 www.sagradafamilia.cat) to marvel at its majesty and wonder when, if ever, it will be finished. Then hang out in his magnificent Parc Güell up the hill. For more gorgeous parks, make a beeline for Parc Joan Miró near Plaça d’Espanya, filled with the artist’s sculptures; or the relaxed Parc de la Ciutadella featuring lovely fountains and the city’s zoo. You could also take a break at the shady Temple of August 8 , where remains of the city’s original Roman forum can be found.

Finally, football fans must see the legendary Camp Nou. If you can get a ticket then go – there’s nothing like the atmosphere when Barca are playing!

Big headed

Tucked away in the Barri Gòtic, El Ingenio ( 9 www.el-ingenio. com) – the name means “The Ingenious” – at first just looks like a store selling circus supplies. But venture inside and you’ll see it’s also a factory producing one of Catalonia’s most baffling and fantastic creations: the papier- mâché giant. Known for their oversized and often grotesque heads, the figures include depictions of kings, queens and public figures. Giants have been a part of Catalan culture for hundreds of years, and are still used in Barcelona’s annual festivals today. One of the best is La Mercè, which takes place 22–25 September.

El Ingenio feels like a mini-museum, and staff will be happy to explain who the various heads are. You can also shop for smaller versions to take home, or browse the unicycles, juggling balls and various goods for clowning around.

AT THE HOTEL

CHIC PLACES TO SLEEP

MODERNIST HOTELS, SEAFRONT HOTELS, hotels with rooftop pools, hotels with cool bars – you’d think sleeping was the last thing you’d be doing at Barcelona’s many lodgings.

Take the B Hotel ( 10 www.b-hotel.com), a gorgeous 84-room glass-fronted beauty a stone’s throw from Plaça d’Espanya. Sleek, minimalist rooms cost from €160 and offer plenty of natural light, big beds and free wi-fi. Though you’ll probably find yourself swimming in the rooftop pool day and night, overlooking the new landmark Richard Rogers-designed Las Arenas mall, a former bullring.

If you like that, you’ll love the slightly more expensive Ricardo Bofill-designed W Barcelona ( 11 , www.w-barcelona.com) another place to see and be seen. Jutting into the water on the beach at Barceloneta, it resembles a massive sail and provides unparalleled views back over the city’s rooftops. The tech-speced rooms feature iPod speakers and electric blinds. While you’re staying here, or even if you’re not, make sure you head to the hip top-floor bar for cocktails, although at €14 a pop you’ll want to sip slowly.

For more trendy interiors, at around €200 you can check into the ever- popular Casa Camper ( 12 www.casacamper.com/barcelona), owned by the Mallorcan shoe brand and centrally located in the boho Raval neighbourhood, just three blocks from the CCCB (see On the Street). Rooms are understated in that high-end design way, but there’s still a fun feel to them – some with a hammock for relaxing in. Staff are warm and there’s a free snack bar for guests. Wooden bicycles are suspended from the lobby ceiling and are yours to borrow for the day.

Another of the best places to stay in Barcelona has to be Design Hotels member Hotel Omm ( 13 www.hotelomm.es) in Eixample. Rooms start from €220 and many face a pretty internal courtyard. From the rooftop terrace and pool you can see Gaudí’s Casa Milà and Sagrada Família. The Michelin-starred restaurant, Moo, and basement club are Barcelona hot spots too.

The gorgeous Grand Hotel Central ( 14 www.grandhotelcentral. com), near La Rambla,is also in Design Hotels’ portfolio. This luxe hotel in a renovated 1920s building has spacious rooms starting under €200 and a rooftop infinity pool. Nice.

For rooms at around €100, try the Hotel Banys Orientals ( 15 www. hotelbanysorientals.com) in the lively Born district. A short walk from the Picasso Museum, friendly staff and low rates make this a great find.

Hostel a go-go

Staying in a hostel in Barcelona is almost a must-do experience – for years a rite of passage for intrepid travellers who favour spending their cash on entertainment over plush pads.

One of the city’s best-known hostels is the recently renovated Kabul ( 16 dorms from €20, including breakfast, www.kabul. es) slap bang on the arcaded Plaça Reial in Barri Gòtic. Though it’s a bit of a noisy one, being close to some famous pubs and clubs.

Also worth checking out is Mambo Tango ( 17 dorm rooms from €27, www. hostelmambotango. com), a Latin American- flavoured and much quieter option in the Poble Sec district. The basic metal bunks and lockers are offset by the colourful communal areas, and it’s right next to legendary tapas bar Quimet I Quimet. There’s free wi-fi, a TV room and DVD library, and rowdy behaviour is frowned upon.

ON THE TABLE

CATALAN CUISINE AND MORE

OVER THE LAST DECADE BARCELONA HAS managed to transform itself into something of a culinary mecca. From cheap and cheerful tapas bars to exclusive eateries, you’ll never be lost for somewhere to go. And if you like to dine early you’ll have an advantage getting into all the popular places because most locals don’t eat before 10pm.

New Catalan cuisine, tapas, seafood and regional dishes are the must-try items, but you’ll find plenty of good budget street food too. For the latter, hit Maoz Vegetarian 18 near La Boqueria market for a lunch of falafel and fried cauliflower. Or for a longer midday munch try the more traditional DosTrece 19 on the other side of the market. A three-course prix fixe menu costs about €13 and includes modernised Catalan classics like patatas bravas and tortilla and tasty chocolate tarts.

Regional options and home cooking are well catered for at El Tossal 20 on Carrer de Tordera, where you can try 100-year-old Catalan recipes like mandonguilles amb tomàquet (meatballs with tomato) and mel i mató (light cheese and honey). Quimet I Quimet 21 , a small family run bodega in Poble Sec, offers top local cheeses, seafood and preserved meats known as conservas that are served as unpretentious canapés. For good food served with good wine, Bar Mut 22 back in downtown is the spot, dishing up a small but carefully selected menu of local plates, including pulpo a la brasa (grilled octopus) alongside choice vintages.

Sample the finest seafood in town, especially whatever’s going as the catch of the day, at Passadis del Pep 23 in the Born neighbourhood. Or, also in Born, there’s good Basque-stye eating to be had at Sagardi 24 . Munch full dishes or tapas, including classic pork chops and cod. If you’re having tapas, when you’re done the waiters will calculate your bill by counting the toothpicks left on your plate – so don’t hide any away!

A break from the local cuisine can be found in Barcelona’s Middle Eastern offerings. On Carrer Verdi, Gràcia’s pedestrian thoroughfare, you’ll find Lebanese delights at Zeinab 25 , which offers a €10 prix fixe menu. Then there’s the Palestinian cooking at Askadinya 26 , where you can sample the likes of shish jaraf, a lamb and hummus dish.

Finally, it would be amiss to talk about new Catalan cuisine without mentioning the Adrià brothers. Ferran closed his world-famous El Bulli earlier this year to work on a new project, but at Albert Adrià’s Tickets 27 in Eixample you can try variations on those famous dishes, like spiced tomato steak tartare with bread crisps. Always packed and loud, the place is decked out like a fairground, including candyfloss machines and ice- cream carts – so keep up your stamina for dessert.

Tapas tips

Nothing illustrates the sociability and chilled attitude of Catalans more than the small plates of tasty grub that go with a drink or are shared as a meal. It’s eating as a good time, and is always loud, messy and fun. Tapas bars are as numerous as football fans here, but why not try Jaica 28 in Barceloneta for a small local place with live football, and order the chipirones (deep-fried octopus).Or head to Eixample for something smarter, like a ham/cheese sandwich with truffle oil from chef Carles Abellan’s Tapaç 24 29 .

Some helpful tips: many tapas joints are small bars, so be prepared to queue. It’s best to reserve for the high-end places, and don’t be put off by brusque staff or the need to shout to get your order heard! Learn the lingo too – tapas are small, raciones are bigger, montaditos are like canapés and pintxos are specifically Basque tapas.

TO THE BAR

FINE WINE AND DEF LEPPARD

NIGHTS IN BARCELONA ARE ALWAYS buzzing, whatever the scene, and whether you’re drinking the local beers and wines or opting for stylish cocktails on a night out (see box, right). Local brew brands Moritz and Damm are eternally popular, drunk cold with salty tapas, from bottles in the city’s clubs, or from cans down on the beach.

Otherwise it’s all about wine – Catalan wine is, inexplicably, one of the Med’s best-kept secrets. It’s inexpensive, as good as Rioja and ubiquitous in Barcelona. There are new wine bars and wine stores popping up all the time.

Viblioteca 30 in the Gràcia district is run by couple Cedric and Yolanda. It’s a bright, spacious wine bar serving good local wines from nearby regions like Priorat (beneficiary of a particular microclimate) and fine cheese and liqueurs. Andú 31 in Barri Gòtic is cavernous and dark, filled with candles and soft couches, serving decent bottles of affordable reds. Then there’s the exceptional Monvínic ( 32 www.monvinic. com) in Eixample, a sophisticated bar and restaurant where you can spend anything from €4 to €20 on a single glass of wine but learn all about it in the process from the knowledgeable waiters. It’s a great early evening stop.

Bars for pre-club drinks are plentiful, but knowing the good ones makes all the difference as you won’t hit the dance floors till 2am at the earliest. So go for the atmospheric French chanson-tinged Bar Pastis ( 33 www. barpastis.com) in Raval, opened in 1947 by a French expat. Seemingly unchanged since, it serves absinthe, shots, wine and more.

Another good spot a little off the beaten track in Montjuïc is La Caseta del Migdia ( 34 www.lacaseta.org), a gorgeous outdoor bar with DJs and cabaret where you can drink and watch the sunset. Back in Barri Gòtic on Plaça Reial, Pipa Club ( 35 www.bpipaclub.com), with its collection of pipes, is a multi-roomed space with banquettes and armchairs. But the biggest selling point is its 6am licence. Buzz on the door to get in.

For a bar-hop into the unknown, wander down Carrer Ample near the waterfront, where you’ll find a dozen or more small bars with DJs, like La Cerveteca 36 . Start at one end and try to get to the other by sunrise.

When you’re ready – or tipsy enough – move on to the spaces with dance floors. On Plaça Reial is Sidecar 37 , an intimate below-ground club with DJs. The historic Sala Apolo 38 dancehall in the Para.lel district hosts bands, disco nights and the popular Anti-Karaoke party on Mondays with an emphasis on 1980s metal tracks, so start practicing your Def Leppard. But serious Barcelona clubbers head to La Macarena ( 39 www.macarenaclub. com), a small, sweaty joint with a revolving dance floor playing bass- thumping techno and house.

Catalan cocktails

For those who like their drinks shaken, stirred or livened up with fresh fruit, a new wave of bars is giving a boost to Barcelona’s cocktail-quaffing scene. Traditionally, Catalan spirits tend to lean towards herbal liqueurs like ratafia, made from walnuts and fennel and drunk by one’s grandfather; or orujo, similar to Italian grappa and drunk with your eyes closed. So this is a problem if you’re looking for someone to make you that excellent Queen’s Park Swizzle you had in Manhattan last month.

Enter the Adrià brothers, whose swish 41˚ 40 bar opened earlier this year, off ering typically experimental cocktails and culinary snacks. It feels exclusive and prices are at the reasonable to high end of scale but who cares when the Adriàs are designing the menu.

Reservations online are essential and dress is smart casual.

HIT THE SHOPS

DON’T PANIC, GET SOME CERAMICS

BARCELONA IS A SHOPPER’S PARADISE.

It’s filled with varied options for everything you could imagine, from clothes and food to jewellery and more. Be sure to visit the incredible markets like Santa Caterina in Ribera (fruit and fresh produce) and Sant Antoni in Raval (books and antiques). Best of all, Barcelona is easy to shop in district by district.

The main shopping axis runs from Passeig de Gràcia via Gran Via down to Plaça de Catalunya and covers all the basics at all prices. The former covers luxury brands and the latter two include all the Spanish high street brands like Zara and Mango. But the district where you’ll find all the best local and international designer boutiques on a smaller scale, and at good prices, is Born. Dressmaker Natalie Capell’s ( 41 www. nataliecapell.com) atelier-style shop is typical of the boutiques lining the alleys west of the Passeig del Born.

For football fans – this is the town of the current champions of Europe – the official FC Barcelona store 42 , on the south- west corner of Plaça de Catalunya, is where to shop. An original Leo Messi 2011–2012 jersey will cost you a cool €80. A complete kid’s kit with socks is €50. Or you could go for the Blaugrana beach towel, at a cheaper €34.

For more arty souvenirs head to Art Escudellers ( 43 www.escudellers- art.com), an enormous ceramics shop with pots and plates from across Spain – much of it influenced by North African clay work. See something you fancy and they’ll pack it specially for air travel at no extra cost, though you can have your purchases shipped too.

For edible items head back to La Boqueria market and buy a fuet or two. A Catalan speciality – particularly in towns that lie a few hours away in the Pyrenees mountains – this cured sausage doesn’t require refrigeration and will help you to explain to friends back home just how good the sandwiches were at breakfast. For a spicier option, ask for a chorizo picante from the butcher’s stalls to the right of the market entrance. Wrapped in paper it will last until you return to the city for your next trip.

For cultural artefacts, head to Montjuïc’s Poble Espanyol 44 . A somewhat kitschy recreation of a typical Spanish village, it’s nevertheless a fantastic place to find genuine and well-crafted examples of items from Barcelona and beyond, including fans, decorative combs, lace mantillas (shawls) and musical instruments.

Olive oil and wine

Just south of Barcelona there grows a small, unimpressive- looking variety of olive named Arbequina. It produces a viscous, smooth oil that chefs internationally regard as among the best in the world. For a gift that a foodie will certainly appreciate, head to the basement of El Corte Inglés 45 department store on Plaça de Catalunya and pick up a bottle of any Arbequina brand.

Eat it with bread and some regional wine, which you can purchase from Vila Viniteca 46 , an incredible wine emporium on Carrer Agullers in Born, where the walls are stacked 10m high with bottles, and the staff will point out which wines they think are the real deal and which merely have nice labels. Prices vary and you won’t be disappointed, and of course you can try before you buy in Viniteca’s cheese shop across the street.

IN THE BAG

MUST-BUYS FROM BARCELONA

1 / OLIVE OIL You’d be crazy to fly home without having treated yourself to a bottle of fantastic olive oil. By buying directly from local producers in Spain you can get high quality for a low price, certainly compared to the average supermarket back home. €10

2 / FC BARCELONA SCARF When it comes to football, do you support the mighty FC Barcelona? If not, why not support them for the duration of your time in Barcelona anyway? Seeing a match in this city is more fun when you’re a Barca fan. Show your support by waving your official team scarf. €12

3 / GAUDÍ DRAGON Parc Güell is the garden inventively designed by Gaudí, and the colourful mosaic dragons adorning the fountain at the main entrance have become mini-icons of Barcelona. Buy your own dragon souvenir – the perfect eccentric addition to a cluttered desk. €13

4 / CHILDREN’S T-SHIRT Make sure that even the smallest member of your crew keeps up to date with Spanish fashion. A cute children’s T-shirt like this one – featuring cartoon tapas characters – will mean your off spring will fit right in with the stylish tots of Barcelona’s playgrounds. €21

5 / PAELLA PAN If you’re a paella fan then you’ll probably be spending your mealtimes in Barcelona comparing various restaurants’ versions of the traditional Spanish seafood dish. Once you’ve found your favourite take on it, why not purchase a paella pan and have a go yourself? €8

WHERE IT’S AT

MAP AND CONTACTS

1 Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona 5 Carrer Montalegre, tel: +34 93 306 4100 / 2 MACBA 1 Plaça dels Angels, tel: +34 93 412 0810 / 3 Virreina Centre de la Imatge 99 La Rambla, tel: +34 93 301 7775 / 4 Arts Santa Mònica 7 La Rambla, tel: +34 93 567 1110 / 5 Harlem Jazz Club 8 Carrer Comtessa de Sobradiel, tel: +34 93 310 0755 / 6 Palau de la Música Catalana 4–6 Carrer Palau de la Música, tel: +34 90 244 2882 / 7 Sagrada Família 401 Carrer Mallorca, tel: +34 93 207 3031 / 8 Temple of August 10 Carrer Paradís / 9 El Ingenio 6 Carrer Rauric, tel: +34 93 317 7138 / 10 B Hotel 389–391 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, tel: +34 93 552 9500 / 11 W Barcelona 1 Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, tel: +34 93 295 2800 / 12 Casa Camper 11 Carrer Elisabets, tel: +34 93 342 6280 / 13 Hotel Omm 265 Rosselló, tel: +34 93 445 4000 / 14 Grand Hotel Central 30 Via Laietana, tel: +34 93 295 7900 / 15 Hotel Banys Orientals 37 Carrer de Argenteria, tel: +34 93 268 8460 / 16 Kabul 17 Plaça Reial, tel: +34 93 318 5190 / 17 Mambo Tango 23 Carrer de Poeta Cabanyes, tel: +34 93 442 5164 / 18 Maoz Vegetarian 95 La Rambla / 19 DosTrece 40 Carrer Carme, tel: +34 93 301 7306 / 20 El Tossal 12 Carrer de Tordera, tel: +34 93 457 6382 / 21 Quimet I Quimet 25 Poeta Cabanyes, tel: +34 93 442 3142 / 22 Bar Mut 192 Carrer Pau Claris, tel: +34 93 217 4338 / 23 Passadis del Pep 2 Pla de Palau, tel: +93 310 1021 / 24 Sagardi 62 Carrer Argenteria, tel: +93 319 9993 / 25 Zeinab 31 Carrer Verdi, tel: +34 93 237 8870 / 26 Askadinya 28 Carrer Verdi, tel: +34 93 368 5077 / 27 Tickets 164 Avinguda del Paral.lel, info@ticketsbar.es / 28 Jaica 13 Carrer Ginebra, tel: +34 93 319 5002 / 29 Tapaç 24 269 Diputació, tel: +34 93 488 0977 / 30 Viblioteca 12 Carrer Vallfogona / 31 Andú 3 Correu Vell / 32 Monvínic 249 Diputació, tel: +34 93 272 6187 / 33 Bar Pastis 4 Carrer Santa Mónica, tel: +34 93 318 7980 / 34 La Caseta del Migdia Mirador del Migdia, tel: +34 617 956 572 / 35 Pipa Club 3 Plaça Reial, tel: +34 93 302 4732 / 36 La Cerveteca Carrer Ample / 37 Sidecar 7 Plaça Reial / 38 Sala Apolo 111–113 Carrer Nou de La Rambla, tel: +34 93 441 4001 / 39 La Macarena 5 Carrer Nou de Sant Francesc / 40 41˚ 164 Avinguda Paral.lel, info@41grados.es / 41 Natalie Capell 2 Carrer Carassa, tel: +34 93 319 9219 / 42 FC Barcelona store 37 Ronda Universitat / 43 Art Escudellers 23–25 Carrer Escudellers, tel:+34 93 412 6801 / 44 Poble Espanyol Avinguda Francesc Ferrer I Guàrdia, tel: +34 93 508 6300 / 45 El Corte Inglés 14 Plaça de Catalunya, tel: +34 93 306 3800 / 46 Vila Viniteca 7 Carrer Agullers, tel: +34 93 777 7017