An Ardèche Adventure

“We’ve had stockbrokers with their polished shoes and Blackberries, car dealers and a 20-strong group of retirees, all friends from university,” he adds. “The funny thing about the English is that they just look at things, they don’t climb them. We soon change that here!”

I’m a light sleeper and remain awake buzzing from a mixture of excess adrenalin, caffeine and wine. I close my eyes and listen to the sonorousness of the surroundings – the rustling leaves, the faint noises of creatures unseen, and the ever-present rumble of the nearby river. Pretty soon, the sun is up and we set off down the river to complete our journey.

Instead of visiting one of the well lit, more touristy caves, we go to a recently discovered one. After descending a 30ft incline, and ascending the same, all the while clinging to a safety rope, the caverns get smaller and more cramped. The walls are slick with clay, and the only available light comes from the torches on our helmets. Stalagmites and stalactites erupt from the rock walls, and eventually we are confronted with a hole about a metre-square, partly filled with muddy water.

As I wait my turn to crawl through, I imagine that the weight of the stone above me is supported by this little arch of rock alone. Acrophobic and aquaphobic, I’m glad I’m not claustrophobic, too – or I’d be paralysed with fear. I crawl through the opening, feeling surprisingly calm yet exhilarated at the same time. The water comes up to my chin and seeps through my clothing, while my warm breath coalesces in the cold air before me and my helmet scrapes the rock above. I struggle through the opening to be greeted by the smiling faces of the rest of the group.

As we catch our breath caving instructor Phil Dostal explains that while there are 25 major caves in the region, there are still loads of undiscovered and unexplored ones. “That’s why I love it so much,” he says. “I’ve found several over the past few months, and getting to these caves, even if the cave itself isn’t much, is special, because you feel like you’re the first person ever there.”

In the final grotto of the cave system, we switch our lights off, and pitch darkness envelopes all. The sound of our breathing mixes with the steady drip of water coming from places unseen. The feeling of calmness and exhilaration is now mixed with one of vulnerability. Is this what it is like to be in the womb? It’s just 20 seconds we are blinded but that’s enough – in this kind of darkness tracking time is difficult. Lights on, retracing our steps,we eventually emerge wet and grimy into the light, but engulfed in a child-like giddiness.

Back in the treetops, I’m trying to convince my gut that swinging on the rope is perfectly safe. Rhys has already swung across and it would be embarrassing for me not to follow, the only hindrance being my irrational fear of heights. After a few false starts, I throw caution to the wind and let the harness take my weight. There’s nothing to do but cling to the rope, let my momentum take hold and enjoy the ride. It’s over in a matter of seconds, and it is with great relief and a sense of achievement that I find myself on the rope net, clambering up to the safety of the platform. After that, my fear dissipates and I can concentrate on the visceral thrill of the remaining obstacles.What a trip.

Get set!
Plan your trip

ARDÈCHE ADVENTURES provides a bespoke adventure holiday service for the British traveller, and specialises in school and family holidays. All the instructors are fully qualified, and activities include trekking, canoeing, mountainbiking, abseiling and climbing. (Tel: +44 (0)20 8123 0076, www.ardecheadventures.com )

OTHER THINGS TO DO:
Travel back in time and discover the relics of Neanderthal man at the Musée Régional de Préhistoire and the Soyons archaeological site. Or marvel at the oldest-known cave paintings in the world at the exhibition near the Chauvet Cave.

Go for a hike on one of the many national trails and marvel at the Neolithic dolmens.

Go on a tour of an olive-oil mill, chocolate factory, or lavender distillery.

Sample the region’s wines, including Condrieu, Cornas, Côtes du Rhône and Saint-Péray, or visit the breweries at Valsles- Bains or Lamastre.

Go on safari in Peaugres, or why not try exploring the magical Doux valley with its stunning scenery (www.lavalleedudouxautrement.fr )

Where to sleep, where to eat
Ardèche details

STAY:
Camping Le Ch’Ti
Franoi, Lablachere.
Tel: +33 (0)47536 6409,
www.campinglechti.com

Bivouac de Gournier,
www.gorgesdelardeche.fr

EAT:
Try the excellent steak at Hôtel de l’Europe in Joyeuse, the oven pizza and ice-cream at Vanille-Chocolat (Place du Sablas, Saint Martin d’Ardèche), or any one of the main courses and the truly excellent chocolate and chestnut crème brûlée at La Table du Moulin (Brès, near Payzac).

For more information,call the Ardèche Tourist Board on
+33 (0)47564 0466, or visit www.ardeche-guide.com

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